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#1
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I plan on buying a BF20 soon. Don't have the cash to CNC it right away, so it will be in manual mode for a while. This is something I would like to be able to make. It is possible to make slants and curves like this on a manual mill? I'd assume I trace the pattern out on the sheet metal and try my best to follow the lines. |
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#4
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| For what it is(R-C car frame, right?) The overall sizes aren't that critical. 1. I would start with two rectangle pieces slightly over size. 2. Lay out the shape on one of them. 3. Clamp both pieces together and drill the holes, deburr. 4. Use bolts through several of the holes to clamp together again. 5. Use manual mill to put slots in. 6. While still clamped together, band saw the outside shape close to lay out line. 7. Use belt sander and files to finish shape. 8. Take apart and deburr. If you take your time and are careful with the saw and sander, you can do it in a short amount of time. For a one off or proto type this is a common way of doing things. |
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#5
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Would a $100 bandsaw from HD or Lowes handle 7075 T6 aluminum? And yes, those are the Twin Vertical Plates to a HPI Savage. I paid ~$140 for that setup (included screws and dog bones), but would like make some a custom length myself. |
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#6
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| Not knowing what saw you mean, but read this link; Band Saw speed for cutting aluminum - VAF Forums People cut the 8020 aluminum with a table saw or miter saw so I'd say go for it! |
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#7
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| It would probably be easier to build a simple 2 axis CNC conversion than to make those parts on a manual mill if you don't have a lot of experience as a machinist. Not trying to get you down, just sayin'. All those rotab setups are not easy and one wrong move and you're hating life. Easiest way for you to do some work on pieces like that would be to have them waterjet cut and then look at doing some of the final ops on it. Best, BW
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#9
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| Cut a template out of thin plywood, and use it with a bearing collar to route out the piece in aluminum... Forget doing that on a manual mill unless is the main goal is to be able to say "Look what I made on a manual mill"... |
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#11
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| Use a GOOD quality handheld router, with soft start..like a Porter Cable, and a carbide bit ideally designed to cut aluminum. Like mcphill says, cut a master template, use a router, and leave the "I did it on a manual mill" bragging to those with too much time on their hands, or the need to have accuracy in the +/-.005 range. A good 2D pantograph will give you excellent results, especially if you use a 2x or 3x pattern master. You can route out holes or cut outlines of odd shapes, and you can use it to engrave. These days you can get a used Deckel pretty inexpensively. |
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#12
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| Use a GOOD quality handheld router, with soft start..like a Porter Cable, and a carbide bit ideally designed to cut aluminum. Like mcphill says, cut a master template, use a router, and leave the "I did it on a manual mill" bragging to those with too much time on their hands, or the need to have accuracy in the +/-.005 range. A good 2D pantograph will give you excellent results, especially if you use a 2x or 3x pattern master. You can route out holes or cut outlines of odd shapes, and you can use it to engrave. These days you can get a used Deckel pretty inexpensively. |
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