![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| General Metalwork Discussion Discuss everything relating to metal work. |
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
Hi. I make a bunch of various sized gear blanks on a CNC lathe from either 9310 or 4140. Average bore size is about .188, and I need to hold .0005" tolerance on that bore. I've been making the parts using solid carbide boring bars. When I make a job out of 4140, I can usually make about 2000 parts without having a single part undersize on the bore. With 9310, it's a different story. I'm always struggling to keep the bore size off the bottom. My best results so far are with a brand new TiN coated tool, but once that tool starts to get just a little dull, the bore size starts closing up on me. I originally tried reaming with a HSS tool, but that was awful. The material just welded to the tool and cut oversize or tapered right away. I was using oil, by the way. Anyway, I'm wondering what you would do? I'm fine making the 4140 parts, but with the 9310 should I stick with the boring bar and just keep sharpening / changing bars frequently, or should I go back to reaming? Maybe trying a coated and/ or carbide reamer? Thoughts? |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| What state is the 9310 in? Is it getting hardened after your operations? Are you running the reamer at least 1/2 the speed of a HSS drillbit? The only other thing I can think of is you should only be cutting about 0.010" to 0.025" with the reamer (meaning the hole should be undersize by 0.010" to 0.025" before reaming). |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| Actually, no, I don't think I have ever reamed on this machine. I much prefer to bore when I can. If you're thinking that the machine might be out of alignment... it's a gang-tool lathe, so I aligned the holder with an indicator to be in line with the spindle. I tried holding the reamer rigidly and also in a floating holder. No luck. |
| Sponsored Links |
|
#6
| ||||
| ||||
|
best bet would most likely be a solid carbide reamer that is dialed in dead nuts
__________________ A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! http://cnctoybox.org |
|
#9
| |||
| |||
| I think your reaming speed is at the low end of recommended drilling SFM. I think you are reaming too fast for HSS is low carbon. I would say 10-15 SFM for the HSS reamer rather than 40 SFM in that material. You might be smoking the reamer and forcing the galling. |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Need Help!- 3.9 H7 Reaming in 58 HRC SAE8620 steel | yaji63 | CNC Tooling | 0 | 03-18-2011 11:31 PM |
| Engraving 1mm on Alloy/Steel SAE1020 | lucas schneider | Laser Engraving & Cutting Machines | 10 | 10-19-2010 08:25 AM |
| Newbie- Tormach and Alloy Steel ? | Need CNC | Tormach PCNC | 7 | 03-06-2009 09:34 PM |
| C-300 alloy steel | 5th-axis | General Material Machining Solutions | 0 | 02-20-2008 09:17 AM |
| Is chrome-moly considered alloy steel? | Cowbell | General Metalwork Discussion | 12 | 02-03-2006 06:27 PM |