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Old 09-01-2010, 06:50 AM
 
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Best way to make a deep slot. Drill Chain?

I've got to make a .25"(w)x7"(l)x1.5"(d) slot. I was considering roughing out the slot with a 1/4" twist drill at .26" spacing then finishing the slot with a long endmill. Is that a reasonable approach? Any reason just to slot with a extra long endmill instead?

-Jim
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:34 AM
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can you give us a solidworks rendering?
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:05 AM
 
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A slitting saw might work better for you.

Matt
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Old 09-01-2010, 03:42 PM
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Standard procedure for a slot like that with no particular finish considerations, within ±.010 is to simply slot with a 1/4" diameter 4 flute end mill (3 flute if non-ferrous) to the length-of-cut (5/8-3/4" down), then run the rest with a short length-of-cut end mill with 1.5-2" reach... the closer to 1.5" the better but you may have to go 2" to get an off-the-shelf grind. They're typically ground to ~.230" behind the flutes for whatever the length specification is.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for axial depth of cut and inch/tooth.
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:34 PM
 
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Thanks Cmailco. Here is a jpg of the slot I'm trying to make. Are there any merits to doing a plunge rough with a twist drill and then cleanup with an endmill? It seems like that would greatly reduce the extremely light passes I'd have to make for the last 1" or so of the slot.

-Jim
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:46 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by Kingjamez View Post
Thanks Cmailco. Here is a jpg of the slot I'm trying to make. Are there any merits to doing a plunge rough with a twist drill and then cleanup with an endmill? It seems like that would greatly reduce the extremely light passes I'd have to make for the last 1" or so of the slot.

-Jim
Jim,

Hate to answer with a question but I'm curious to know; is this a production run? How many do you need to make?

What's the workpiece material?

Thanks,
Chuck
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:59 PM
 
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It's a small production of 10 or less units and I'm doing it on my CNC'd X3 bench top mill. The material is 6061.

The slot above is just part of the job, there is another 4 hours of machine time for each part. I'm trying to minimize time everywhere I can.

-Jim
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:08 PM
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FWIW, I quite often chain drill when doing deep narrow slots. Works well for me.

karl
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:14 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Karl_T View Post
FWIW, I quite often chain drill when doing deep narrow slots. Works well for me.

karl
It's worth a lot. Thanks!
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:48 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Karl_T View Post
FWIW, I quite often chain drill when doing deep narrow slots. Works well for me.

karl
x2 , drilling is one of the fastest most efficient ways to remove material because the work is balanced torque along the spindle axis with almost no lateral loads on the machine...in other words the set up is the most rigid it can be permitting the highest removal rates ....and as you'll get say 100 sharpenings out of a drill its very inexpensive as well.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:43 AM
 
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The slitting saw, I like that the best - probably where I would start. 1/4 end mill x 1.5 Lg. the slots gonna look s#$t by the time you're done.
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Old 09-05-2010, 12:24 PM
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Rough it first.

Lots of drill holes 15/64" or 7/32" to remove most of the material,
then passes with a 6mm end/slot mill.

A 3 flute one will run more smoothly (IMHO)

Then some final passes climb milling to give the final width of 1/4"
The reason for the 6mm and not 1/4" mill is so that it is always climb milling.
Lots of flood coolant to keep the chips from being regurgitated.
Make DOC about 3mm so as not to overload the cutter.

With the flood coolant you can run 3000 rpm or so, if your spindle will go that fast.

To identify the best feed rate examine the chips, and listen for smooth cutting.

Solid carbide will work better, but it won't take kindly to overloading on intermittent cuts.

Finishing pass with too much chip load will not give straight sides because the cutter will bend.
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