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#1
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Looking for a good remedy to remove surface rust and the rust stain that is underneath the rust spot on cast iron. I am going to try a brass brush with some solvent (gas, kerosene or other) but I figured I would ask the group here first. I am hoping a brass brush will not scratch the cast iron since some of the spots are on a smooth area of cast iron. Your suggestions please. Chris |
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#5
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| Chris: Please do post your results. I have a similar situation; I cleaned some parts with paint thinner and did not immediately oil coat them (my bad ). The next morning there were several rust spots. The rust cleaned up with just light machine oil and 0000 steel wool but left dark stains. I would be much interested in any successful means of removing the stains.robotic regards, Tom = = = = = "Do you think if we licensed poets, that they would still take poetic license?" - - Dennis R. Ridley |
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#6
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| I've used this Rust-Free stuff for my table saw and all my other tool tops, it works great. http://www.eagle-america.com/html/ca...oup.asp/334293 Then cover with Top Coat to prevent rusting. http://www.eagle-america.com/html/ca...oup.asp/332788
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#7
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Gasoline is good for running cars. And reasonably safe. But it should NEVER be used as a cleaner, solvent, for washing your hands, etc. It should never be stored indoors. Ken
__________________ Kenneth Lerman 55 Main Street Newtown, CT 06470 |
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#8
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| I guess using gasoline to lubricate the double sided tape on the end of my golf clubs when I am regripping is a no no also? Well I tried both a paint stripper and a version of naval jelly. The naval jelly worked very good. Paint stripper didn't work so well, but it could have been my technique. I bought the naval jelly from a automative store. It was labeled as a rust remover but I believe it has the ingredient(s), like phosphoric acid that are listed in naval jelly. Only thing I found was that the stain went from a rust color to a white color (cloud). Guess it is better than it looking like rust. I could not remove the white stain with either a brass brush or steel wool. To seal the cast iron, I already had some Rust inhibitor by "Crown". I believe it is lanolin based. I think it works really well. Chris |
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#9
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Golfsmith used to sell Naptha I think for regripping, before they came out with the environmentally friendly stuff that doesn't work very good.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#10
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| I can second Ger's recommendation of RUST-FREE, it did an excellent job on my PM66 table top. Boes works well keeping it rust free even in a FL climate. As an aside, is the cast iron a working surface or just cosmetic? If its decent quality cast then you can make it highly rust resistant just by heavily burnishing it with a wire brush. Loads of old bridges where treated this way, or to keep on the enviromentally incorrect theme, black leading the cast was a method of maintaining cast iron stoves for generations... All of it was bloody hard work though.... Andrew |
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