HELP! Best way to cut ALUMINUM square tubing in thin slices w/o kickback?

[toolmetal]

I am a hobbyist and would like to cut, for example, aluminum square tubing (Any size from 1", 1.5", 2", 3" square and 1/8" thickness/wall) into many "slices" of varying sizes (like a loaf of bread). For instance, I would have a 4' foot length 2" AL square tube (1/8" wall) and run it through the saw to create many slices of open squares (like hollow square bread slices). I would also like to do the same with ROUND Aluminum tubing to create many AL rings.

I purchased a Miter/chop saw and a "Freud D1080N Diablo 10-Inch 80 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating" that was recommended to me. This miter saw and blade would be proprietary and only used for aluminum cutting.

My first attempt was going great and the Miter Saw with the Diablo blade was cutting the 1.5" tubing like butter. But, it eventually kicked back and flung the slice it just cut and bounced around the garage (luckily it threw the piece towards the back, even though I wear protective gear). I then attempted to make more careful cuts by releasing the power while the blade was still down (thinking that this would prevent any kickback). it worked well, but eventually it kicked back at the start of a cut.

So, would I be better off installing the Diablo circular saw blade on a Table Saw and running the tubing with a slide guide, slicing as I go? Would doing this on a table saw prevent any flying dangers/kickbacks? Any other opinions on equipment i can use to successfully and safely cut Aluminum square and round tubing into various lengths?

Thank you in advance for your reply.

[rosko]

Depending on the length of the piece your wanting to cut off you can set up some sort of clamp to hold the piece in place.

[toolmetal]

Hello rosko,

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, clamps will be very difficult if not impossible. The "slices" I will cut will be as thin as 1/2" ... I hope to cut both square and round aluminum tubing, running it through and cutting thin slices (as thin as 1/2" to 1.5") through the entire length. Thus, ending up with many "sliced" hollow squares or rings.

As mentioned before, I tried to do this on my Miter Saw with the Diablo blade and it had some bad results. Would this job be better suited on a Table Saw? Safer? Prevent kickback or flying "sliced" projectiles?

Any advice would be welcome.

Thank you.

[rosko]

Could always find a a piece of tubing with a OD that is just a bit smaller then the ID of the tubing that you are wanting to cut. Then shim the smaller piece so there is enough clearance on the bottom and side for the piece of tubing that you are wanting to cut to slide over and clamp it into place.

This way you just slide the stock over and cut off the pieces that you want and the smaller tube being inside should keep the slices from flying around. It should work if you clamp the smaller tube as close to the blade as you can with out it touching.

[Geof]

Do as rosko suggest but fabricate your tube out of wood so it is a nice fit. This way the cut piece is fully supported and cannot go anywhere.

[Pro-Fab]

It would be a good idea to check for any carbide teeth that may have been damaged when you had your kick-back. With aluminum, I like to keep the blade lubricated, as it tends to grab the aluminum as it becomes heated.

[mc-motorsports]

Too much RPM, I'm sure your miter saw was intended for wood.
How thin are these pieces your cutting? I'm sure you wanted a cold saw until you saw the prices?
A small verticle band saw with a cross slide would probably be in your price range and safer to use, probably get a better finish also, if that matters for your application. Horizonal band saw would be better and a cold saw would be best.

[fuzzyracing1967]

I'd like to give anouther option if you all don't mind. I see these kinds of posts on here all the time and and cringe when someone says parts are flying what can I do? I understand your a hobbyist and all but sometimes haveing the right tool for the job is the HEALTHY way to go!
Your looking to cut 8 foot of aluminum into some short peices,is there a (proper) machine shop nearby that might be able to cut it for a few bucks? I know if anyone walked in are shop and wanted done what I think your looking at doing,it would be,-sure-(me)-what do I owe you-(you)-a case of beer sounds good-(me).
What I'm sayin is sometimes trying to do something you don't have the tooling or machinery to do can be a very bad thing.

ignore my singature on this post please,thankyou

[toolmetal]

Thank you for all your replies. They have all been very helpful. I hope you can answer the follow-up questions / comments:

* I have thought of asking a machine shop / local metal place to do my cuts but, if it is possible, I would prefer being able to do it in my garage and in my own time. Besides, these are projects I will do frequently for a very long time. So, perhaps a business will be glad to do the first project for a dime -- But, after that, their time is valuable as well and i am sure they would charge me a regular rate if I was a repeat visitor. Not to mention, I could certainly use a reliable and safe cut off saw for aluminum square and round tubing to make other projects like frames, etc.

* Yes, the miter saw I have is a regular miter saw for wood. This could certainly be a factor. I did a quick search for Metal Cold Saws and I can see why you mentioned the high price. So, cold saws are not in my budget at this time. Please consider the following:

My current needs: As per my original description, I would like to have the ability to safely and efficiently cut aluminum square and circular tubing from 1" to 3" (square or diameter) in a .0125 (1/8") wall thickness. I cannot see my needs going beyond this point (if they do, then I will certainly invest in more appropriate, heavy-duty, equipment). I would like to have the ability to "slice" these AL tubes in various lengths ... from 1/4" to 2". I would also like to cut the square tubing in 45 degree miter cuts to make corners for welded frames.

So, knowing my needs and that a Cold Saw is not an affordable option, would a regular metal CHOP SAW with a good non-ferrous metal blade be a safe and efficient alternative? I am looking at the following (please let me know if it would suit my needs):

Hitachi 14" Chop Saw at Lowes: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...4SF&lpage=none

Diablo Non Ferrous Metal Blade:

Amazon.com: Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor: Home Improvement

Does this combination fit my needs? I notice that the Chop Saw has a clamp and (from the picture) it seems as though any thin "sliced" cuts I make to either square or round tubing would fall to the bench or floor with each slice. Will this prevent the occasional kickback and sliced projectiles I have experience with my regular Miter WOOD saw and Diablo blade?

Also, if the above combo is recommended, how often shoudl one apply the saw wax? I have also read in other posts that spraying WD-40 is also an option ... Would silicone lubricant be better?

Once again, thank you for your help. I look forward to your replies.

[mc-motorsports]

That chop saw is a POS. Atleast get one with a cast aluminum base, Ryobi or Craftsman professional used to make them, today I'm not 100% sure, everyone is going cheap. Plus that is made for abrasive wheels which don't work good on aluminum, and too much speed for the carbide blade, you'll have the same problem, plus the chop saws almost all have a 1" arbor.

A horizonal band saw would do what you want... As much as I'd hate to post a HF link, and it's the bottom of the barrel for shop equiptment:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93762

Maybe think about investing in atleast a Jet brand band saw. Or depending on where you live, check the used machinery dealers. If your around Cleveland, Ohio, I'll post links. Lots of good deals to be had at the moment.

[mc-motorsports]

Originally Posted by fuzzyracing1967 sure-(me)-what do I owe you-(you)-a case of beer sounds good-(me).

You work for beer? I have some jobs that I can outsource.

[mc-motorsports]

Originally Posted by mc-motorsports That chop saw is a POS. Atleast get one with a cast aluminum base, Ryobi or Craftsman professional used to make them, today I'm not 100% sure, everyone is going cheap. Plus that is made for abrasive wheels which don't work good on aluminum, and too much speed for the carbide blade, you'll have the same problem, plus the chop saws almost all have a 1" arbor.

I'm quoting myself... Does that mean I'm going crazy? Just wondering...

Stupid idea. Why not use a VFD to slow down a decent chop saw or even miter saw to make a low budjet cold saw?

I realize that the bearings are not nessessarily sealed for use with coolant, so that may be one issue, but other than that, would it work? Anyone want to argue against it?

I was thinking a VFD controlled standard wood working miter saw, carbide blade as mentioned above, build a decent stand for it with a coolant tank of lets say 10 gallons, a small pump, coolant line attached to the gaurd and PRESTO! a low budget cold saw to solve the 50 threads a month where someone needs a cold saw but can't fit the budjet!

Can anyone argue why it wouldn't work? Maybe I'm not thinking of the obvious here, it just popped into my head.

And if not, can someone tell me where to get a cheap VFD for a 3600 rpm 120/60/1 motor? I'll try it and post back in a couple of weeks if nobody else wants to.