Need Help!- Multicam gears are lose

[JasperBurtonIII]

We have an ancient 8'x12' multicam router that got retrofitted at some point in the past 10 years and I can only assume it is some custom job in the first place. My dad was mostly responsible for maintaining the machine until about 5 years ago when I got thrown into the mix and because of this the true origins & nature of the beast have been lost to father time.

In any case I have been nursing this machine since day 1 and now, after 5 years, I have brought it to a nearly efficiently functioning point. Just nearly that is. I replaced a stepper motor about 3-4 months ago across my x-axis as the old one was approaching temperatures exceeding the operational rating for the motors (160 deg. F) and since then I haven't had any problems with the motors overheating but now I have a new problem: my gears on my x-axis are loose.

I cannot cut rectangle out of a piece of aluminum without cutting an extra 1/8" nub at the corners where it changes from motion on the x-axis to the y. I can grab the machine and rock it back and forth a minute amount, but this problem gets worse whenever the machine tries to cut a round shape. This is really no problem when I am cutting very large letters and shapes for big signs, but cutting any clean details has become problematic at best.

The best solution I can think of is to tighten the gears for the x-axis, which I suspect may have been loosened over the years by the clutch. But once again, having such a FrankenRouter makes it a bit difficult to find any instructions of tightening said gears and since we use it on a near day-to-day basis I cannot really tear it apart and monkey it back together without great risk to the company.

So If anyone has any experience with these gargantuan Multicams and sympathy for my plight, advice would be much appreciated or even better, some direction as to where to find specifics on my very vaguely described machine. If anyone wants I can take some pictures of the table and gear I am talking about, but I don't even know if I am posting this in the right place...

-Jasper Burton III, Cuerden Sign Co.

[SCRAPWOTSCRAP]

I have 3 multicams here, my advice would be to contact Multicam. Find the serial number of your machine, they will have the replacement parts for your machine. Would also recommend replacing x-axis bearings at same time. Schedule some down time for the machine and either do it yourself (you sound capable) or schedule them to come in. if you have them come in, they might be able to make you more familiar with your machine and what will need fixing next, because it never really ends. Unfortunately you can only escape maintanance for so long. What part of the country are you in?

[JasperBurtonIII]

That is pretty much the advice I expected, but praying for a simple screw to tighten never hurts. I'll probably end up calling multicam as soon as business slows and have them send some technician over so I can watch(and blame him for what breaks next...)

Our shop is just north/west of Little Rock, AR. What do you use your multicams for? Keeping 3 of these babies happy can't be too easy, unless that is they aren't older than you...

[SCRAPWOTSCRAP]

I'm not sure anything is older than I am (today). We cut plastic and wood for displays mostly. Been working with the Multicams 3 years (one is newer)., used othe cnc routers before that. Multicams wouldn't be my first choice, but they have their place with what they do. Prefer a machine with a full blown cnc control standing next to it, wearing a path tween the machines and my office, lol. Bottom line is they all need to be maintained and pampered, no matter the manufacturer. Not sure if Multicam Midwest handles your area or not. If you need their number let me know.

[xjdubber]

From what your saying it sounds like the pinion gears need to be readjusted to the gear rack, the gears would not be loose on the motors. On most of the multicams that is very simply done with some allen keys. you'll probably want to square the gantry also. Used to be a multicam tech if you need any help let me know.

[Blackriver]

Hi xjdubber,

If you don't mind answering a few questions in regards to setting up a MG304 router.

1. According to the service manual the recommendation is to tighten the X bearing cars allen key bolts individually while running the gantry back and forth so as not to bind the bearings up, which is all fine and well but the next step then is to do a gantry squaring procedure which is surely going to put strain back onto the bearing cars, does it make sense to loosen and re tighten the cars again after squaring the gantry.

2. What is the "Procedure to Square Table (MC5004_003V1)

3. What is the manual procedure, is it as basic as loosening the X motors and tweaking the gantry into a square position using the 3-4-5 (X Sq + Y Sq = Tangent Squared)

4. If the X motors are loosened and not repositioned correctly , there is going to either be backlash in the system or strain on the gearbox bearing. What is the securing procedure of the x axis motors to ensure minimal backlash with out destroying the gearboxes in the long run.

If you are still good for more,

5.In setting up the Spindle what is the Sweep Spindle Head procedure (MC5004_006)

I am familiar with working with clock gages and have the necessary tools for doing most stuff, I do also have tech training on aircraft engines and turbines so please dont hold back

Regards and many thanks for any info
Nigel

[xjdubber]

see items in red

Originally Posted by Blackriver Hi xjdubber, If you don't mind answering a few questions in regards to setting up a MG304 router. 1. According to the service manual the recommendation is to tighten the X bearing cars allen key bolts individually while running the gantry back and forth so as not to bind the bearings up, which is all fine and well but the next step then is to do a gantry squaring procedure which is surely going to put strain back onto the bearing cars, does it make sense to loosen and re tighten the cars again after squaring the gantry. you dont square the gantry with those bolts, you loosen of the bolts on the beam(Y) running from X support to X support. 2. What is the "Procedure to Square Table (MC5004_003V1) loosen off the bolts on the beam (Y) and home the machine it will then find the home sensor (two) located at the end of the x axis and adjust square if adjusted correctly with the bolts tightened when finding home it will only hit the sensors once then back of and be ready for machining (twice is acceptable) 3. What is the manual procedure, is it as basic as loosening the X motors and tweaking the gantry into a square position using the 3-4-5 (X Sq + Y Sq = Tangent Squared) no math needed. see above 4. If the X motors are loosened and not repositioned correctly , there is going to either be backlash in the system or strain on the gearbox bearing. What is the securing procedure of the x axis motors to ensure minimal backlash with out destroying the gearboxes in the long run. loosen of the adjusting bolts on the gearbox that let it slide up and down and by hand push the gear box into the rack (do not use a jack or excessive amounts of force) and while holding it in place tighten the bolts If you are still good for more, 5.In setting up the Spindle what is the Sweep Spindle Head procedure (MC5004_006) Use a dial indicator with a 1' bar or so bent in a 90 hold it with a collet in the spindle. to do this properly you must have an even surface on the table, if your phonelic is not looking to good then use a face mill to make an even surface to get greater accuracy repeat it a couple of times. You must loosen the bolts that hold the spindle to the z and shim it for the x and slide it for the y (use the dial indicator to determine how much shimming is needed) Its the same procedure as on a knee mill. I am familiar with working with clock gages and have the necessary tools for doing most stuff, I do also have tech training on aircraft engines and turbines so please dont hold back Regards and many thanks for any info Nigel

[Blackriver]

Hi XJ,
Thank you for the response.
you dont square the gantry with those bolts, you loosen of the bolts on the beam(Y) running from X support to X support.
The MG 304 that I have has the X supports welded to the gantry, but it is interesting and makes sense that the sensors either side of the gantry are used to square it off. Have you come across this type of setup before and do you have any ideas on how to go about this now
Regards
Nigel

[xjdubber]

Originally Posted by Blackriver Hi XJ, Thank you for the response. you dont square the gantry with those bolts, you loosen of the bolts on the beam(Y) running from X support to X support. The MG 304 that I have has the X supports welded to the gantry, but it is interesting and makes sense that the sensors either side of the gantry are used to square it off. Have you come across this type of setup before and do you have any ideas on how to go about this now Regards Nigel

take a couple of detailed pictures and post them im pretty sure with all MG's (moving gantry) that was the way to square them.

[Blackriver]

Hi XJ,
Here are a few shots that show the X Support, shot level with the table up towards the gantry, the welded section is clearly shown, also what is visable is the bracket holding the X motor to the support and the bearing cars.The cover has been removed for these views.
This should be enough for you to see whats up on this machine.
Thanks again for the help it is much appreciated.

[xjdubber]

are the homing sensors adjustable on this machine? I've worked on those before but never had to square a gantry on them. Is it giving you any servo errors?

[Blackriver]

The homing sensors are located with 3 rolled steel pins each so that they cant move.
I have not had any server errors, how would they be seen.
I did square the gantry a few weeks back using the whole length and breadth of the the table to give me a triangle and on the diagonal I was 1mm out which im told is within the specs. This was done by locking the gantry in place on one side and tweaking the other before resetting the position of the X motor. Very finicky stuff and not easy.