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Old 07-31-2004, 08:18 PM
 
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Anyone know of one?

A 16mm end mill with a 1/2 shank?
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Old 07-31-2004, 11:10 PM
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Why do you need one? Is a widening toolpath not an option?
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Old 07-31-2004, 11:20 PM
 
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I have a few pieces that need a precision 16mm hole sunk 5mm deep for a bearing. Since this is a production piece I can't cut any corners. I don't think that my router will be able to hold the tolerences unless it's a simple plunge down. There is possibilty of using a reamer to enlarge the hole by a few thousands for a perfect fit but the depth needs to be precisely controlled.
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Old 07-31-2004, 11:32 PM
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If what you are wanting to accomplish with the 16mm is quicker cutting time via a single pass it may not be worth the added expense since what you would save in time is minor on small RC parts. If you were machining thousands of a single part then of course this timesavings would be a real factor. Does it really make a difference if it takes a few extra minutes, I used to think so but Ward got me out of that thinking a while back, so now I just try for clean tool paths and do not get all that excited about optimizing for speed.

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Old 07-31-2004, 11:35 PM
 
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If I could make it work with a longer cycle that would be fine but that's not the case. The tolerence needs to be at least .001 for the proper fit. This item is a bulkhead which ties together most of the suspension so a lot depends on it.
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Old 07-31-2004, 11:42 PM
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Don't count on an endmill used as a drill to make an accurate hole. You really should try to interpolate it with a smaller endmill. If you can't use radius comp, you can just keep regenerating a new path in OneCNC until you get a fit. Keep the feedrate low, because the tool might be performing a wee tiny orbit inside the hole, while the effective feedrate is much higher out where the cutting is happening.
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Old 07-31-2004, 11:42 PM
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Most end mills I have seen are +.000 -.001 so that may work out to your benifit. Now the search for a 16mm end mill in the USA
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Old 07-31-2004, 11:50 PM
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BTW, reamers will not ream down to a square cornered hole bottom. You'd have to check how much fillet the bearing race has, and whether it would foul on the reamed chamfer left in the bottom of the hole.

If you can't interpolate the hole, then a small adjustable boring head would serve better.
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Old 08-01-2004, 12:15 AM
 
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I was looking at the indexable boring heads but my rpms might be a problem. The minimum I can spin is 10k.

By the way Hu, I really am grateful for all the advice you've been posting. Since I'm new at machining there are many little things I have yet to learn. Eventually I'll get there though with the help of this forum.
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Old 08-01-2004, 12:30 AM
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You're welcome, Andrew.

Have you experimented with circular interpolation of the hole to see what kind of results your machine actually gives you? Is this aluminum you are working?

Do you want to actually press fit the bearing, or just slide it in? .001" clearance is actually a loose fit, .0002 clearance will start to feel like there's some "grip" to the fit. 0 clearance is tight, and .001 interference is very tight, and in aluminum, the bearing will most likely gall the hole when you press it in with interference.

For production purposes, you might be able to get away with circular interpolation of the hole, getting from 0 to .002" clearance, then cementing the bearing in with Loctite bearing mount compound. This is actually better for the bearing than hammering it into position anyways. There are various strengths of Loctite available, depending on how much effort you want to put into getting the unit out of the hole afterwards.
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Old 08-01-2004, 12:39 AM
 
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I did a few test passes but right now the machine is without a controlling computer. The parents did not like the fact that I had taken the office computer to the shop for it. I'm going to buy a computer from ebay tonight but until I get it....

Slide in would be fine. There will be a very slight amount of preload being exerted on the bearings by the bulkheads so it's not critcal to have the bearing grip the part.

Here is a shot of it. The green structures holding the black diff are the bulkheads I am referring too.
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Old 08-01-2004, 01:10 AM
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You wouldn't want to Loctite the bearings into that, I guess. Disassembly would be too difficult. Boring would be the way to do it right. But at 10000 rpm, interpolation might have to be what you'd settle for.

There may be another solution, but I don't know exactly what they are called. Electric motor rewind shops use a special wear sleeve to repair light duty motor endbells that have worn out. The procedure is to bore the worn bearing seat out, then insert this special "corrugated sleeve" material (cut from a bulk roll, I believe), into the hole. The corrugated steel sleeve crushes slightly the first time you press the bearing into the hole, and creates its own correct fit. The hole tolerance is quite wide on boring the hole, because the corrugated sleeve can be crushed more or less, as required. This might be the type of thing your cnc machine could handle for accuracy. You might have to machine the hole out to 18mm or something, to allow space for the corrugated sleeve material.

By analogy, the corrugated sleeve looks kind of like the wrapper on a Reese peanut butter cup.
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