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Thread: Headstock Bearing for Top Turn CNC-406

  1. #1
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    Headstock Bearing for Top Turn CNC-406

    Anyone know of a domestic (US) supplier for a tapered roller bearing for the headstock, no 32016XU, NTN????

    Thanks!

    Jim


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    Jim, Are you looking for a domestic supplier of an NTN bearing or a supplier of a domestic bearing equivalent to the NTN 32016XU? My NTN catalog says supplementary suffix code "U : International interchangeable tapered roller bearings."

    Dick Z
    DZASTR


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    Try Bearings Inc or Detroit Ball Bearing.

    As DZASTR says, it should be an "international" part that should be readily available.

    NOTE: although another brand SHOULD and do interchange, I"d be disinclined to mix and match brand names of cups and cones. Best bet is to use them in factory matched sets.


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    I'd like the 'real' bearing, not an equivalent. Jashico in Taiwan sent me a replacement, but it's not the correct bearing. I'm trying to get the right one from them, but if something falls through, I'd like a domestic back-up.

    Thanks for the info!

    Jim


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    Jim, That suffix doesn't mean "junk", only that it is supplied by other suppliers/manufacturers. Probably available from SKF, NSK, Torrington, Timken etc. Your "domestic" or local supplier should be able to loook that up in a equivalent chart.

    Dick Z
    DZASTR


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    Jim, FYI my SKF catalog states the series 320 X have a "higher accuracy" They are used mainly for machine tool work spindles and are listed in their "precision bearings catalog". $$$$$$ probably.

    Dick Z
    DZASTR


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    Welcome to the fun, exciting world of "international bearings".

    I wish I had a nickle for every time a person called with a generic part number and was looking for a "replacement" for their machine tool - sadly, they think that the basic "number" tells you what you need to know about "replacing" the bearing. NOT HARDLY>

    The suffiixes that are found on most bearings tell a lot about the bearing. Sometimes, the suffixes are intelligible - sometimes, they are unmpublished specs that involve special geometries and/or preparations that were used to trick up the bearings for a particular applicaiton. Few if any bearing makers offer "decoder rings" for these special part numbering suffixes - I know, I did bearing interchanges for quite some time as a beginner engineer for the bearing company I worked for.

    In the given case, the generic part number for the international equivalent tapered roller will probably FIT - afterall, they sued that "size" bearing and it fit. However, if they had a special runout or raceway or other special feature, you'll never know what the "X" really stood for in the P/N. You'll probably never be able to measure any difference even if you knew where to look and had the stuff to look with.

    Your choices are slim - buy the EXACT part from the OEM or buy a generic "fits all" bearing and hope it works qith 100 per cent interchanceability. Chances are, it will fit and "work" OK. There may be some noise or runout issue that the machine may not satisfy anymore but, under the circuimstances, you may not have any other choice - especially on older/seasoned machines where literally "custom" bearings may have been made in the day and, sadly, that doesn't happen that much anymore.

    Heck, even the special custom made bearings that Bridgeport used on their classic mills for decades arent' and can't be made anymore. This is why, even today, that it takes some degree of "expertise' to do machine tool servicing - the darn things in some instances are/were literally CUSTOM built, hand fit machines.

    Yes, they don't build them like they used to - and thankfully so. Now, you can fix stuff with 'standard" bearings and not have to use hand fit/assembled custom pieces like they used to make back in the 'good old days".

    Good luck with your ssrvicing efforts...

    I wish you well in finding an "exact" replacment but, until/unless you find someone with the "factory spec" for the EXACT bearing you have/want, you're guess is as good as anybody's as to what can/will work as a satisfactory aftermarket replacement.


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