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General Metal Working Machines General discussions of all metal working machines from drill presses to band-saws.


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  #13   Ban this user!
Old 08-24-2007, 07:39 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: US
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Chris64 is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
yeah but with the clausing, at least there's the chance its not junk (ducking for cover)
...well I picked up the junk. I had to drive pretty far out to the sticks and I regretted the purchase when I got home.

It had no tool holder at all...well that just sucks for me so now I have to make or buy one. Plus when I looked through the grizzly catalog...it comes with a 7 inch 4 jaw (weird size), a plate, 3 different taper for the live center. This thing came with one 3 jaw and one taper.

Basically, the savings in buying a HF used weren't as significant without the extra do-hickies.

Now that I've played with it a little, I can see it needs work. It has slop and backlash like I would expect - but was somehow hoping wouldn't be there (perhaps store displays are just beaten to death? sadly, no).

The other deal is so good and he's not actively looking to sell it I may buy it too (I have a little time to think about it). I can always sell them both and at least break even (probably make a little cash).

Now...to tell my wife the plan (really ducking for cover!)
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:17 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 281
vulcom1 is on a distinguished road

I have an Atlas TH54 (old) and it has quite a bit of backlash which most lathes do. You can adjust for it when cutting. As for the slop you should clean it and then adjust your gibbs on the bed, and cross slide to start. Not sure what shims are in it for adjusting but if there is a lot of movement check to see if one is missing. Lubricate it before adjusting so nothing sticks and everything slides easily. I also check the level of the bed with a machinist level before doing any adjusting. You can put in or take out a warp in the bed by shimming unless it has been bent to far. Also bolt it on a solid base. My top is 4 layers of 3/4 ply glued and nailed together on a 2x4 frame that is all painted so the oil won't affect it.
After you get it all set up and adjusted then you will know if you got a piece of junk or a good deal. My lathe has a set of gears(loose) and I have a manual for it that I can cut just about any thread you can think of. Check to see what is available for yours.
John
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:57 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
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Mcgyver is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by Chris64 View Post
:Now that I've played with it a little, I can see it needs work. It has slop and backlash like I would expect -(really ducking for cover!)
backlash and some slop, or rather clearance between mating parts is necessary, but what separates the good from the bad are how straight and accurate the bearing surfaces are, how well they fit with mating parts and the accuracy of the leadscrew and spindle bearings. also, the better lathes have ground leadscrews and very expensive spindle bearings. There's lots of other thing that differentiate quality in other areas such as how rigid it is, how it will wear etc, but I'd say those the main elements affecting accuracy.

for 350, you would be well service to learn enough about lathes to inspect it and unless its completely clamped out, bring it on home...wifes consternations not withstanding
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