Chuck that drops...

[simonfilm]

I have just bought this machine http://www.weiss.com.cn/products/wmp250v.php

It comes with the chuck I show on the picture. I attach it to the Morse taper with a nylon hammer, but as soon as I use it a bit it drops. Excuse me for my ignorance.

What do I do wrong?

Thank you very much!

Simon.

[snowshovelbmx]

in the picture that is not the morse taper that is commin off it is teh jacobs taper and it is more of a permenent locking taper, what you can do is heat the drill chuck up a little bit( doesn't need to be a lot) and then tap it onto the taper. as it cools and contracts it should set better. Also make sure that both the spindle and chuck tapers are free from and dirt.
chris.

[Geof]

Did it come off while you were drilling or did you have a milling cutter in the chuck?

Even if you heat and tap the Jacob taper together it will come off when you try to use a milling cutter and put a side load on the chuck.

[svenakela]

Isn't there a threaded hole in the center?
My chucks are fixed with a screw in the bottom into the axle.

Regards,
Sven

[DJPLAST]

This fit MUST BE CLEAN and no burrs, no nicks, no rings from "spinnig" the shank in the taper. Once these two pieces are wrung together they usually stay together and are a bear to get apart. If you have spun the arbor into the chuck, then more than likely you need a new shank. The chuck is hard and usually survives, but the shank usually gets the damage.

[skmetal7]

i usually give mine a good WHACK with the chuck resting on a piece of wood, and a piece of wood between the arbor and steel hammer (hasnt came off yet)

[One of Many]

If you are milling with a chuck, it should at minimum have an integral shank. If a mating shank and bore do not match the full taper, it can walk apart more often than not as it shifts about on the slightest mismatched taper while spinning against a side load.

A keyless chuck as a side cutting tool holder is asking for trouble. It is not a case of IF they open up, but given a combination of vibration and side loading, they can and WILL open at the least convenient moment. Even a keyed chuck can have similar problems, et al with less probability. Although a keyless chuck is designed to self tighten under constant thrust loads, initially it won't ever be as tight as a keyed chuck.

You can blue up the tapers to inspect how much bearing surface is actually doing its job. Then alter the shanks Jacobs taper hi-spot areas to get better than 80% contact. This still won't end the limitations of a 2 piece chuck and milling.

DC

[gsrmmeza]

there are many different tapers for drill chucks. do you
know if your chuck is the correct chuck for that taper.
the chuck will have a number letter combo on it some where.
it can be any of the following j1,2jt,6,6jt,33jt, or many
other sizes. you will need to check that the male(quill) is
the correct mating taper for the female(chuck).

[ironDigit]

try drilling the largest hole you can in a he thickest piece of scratch steel for as deep as you can. hmmm given this is the correct shank for your chuck and your not including to much oilr/grease it is now "permanently"fitted to its arbor by the axial load from the drilling.

Hoe to get it off again : i never succeeded in taking mine off but why would i want that to anyway i can't imagine a job requiring a chuck without its arbor.

And yes i keep a seperate chuck for any machine that i would like to drill anything with.

just my 2cts.

[parttime]

I have a similar problem. My MT2 taper spun in the quill tube. I can replace the taper for about $10. What should I do about the quill tube? I am considering using some sort of abrasive to file the burrs while I run the machine. (of course I'll keep my fingers and eyes safe doing it).