Need info on Cutting oils

[widgitmaster]

I have been using synthetic water soluable coolant in my new lathe for several months now, and everything is rusting so quickly I can't stand it!
I live in Florida which is high humidity, and my shop is in my garage with the door open frequently.

What I would like to do is remove the coolant and replace it with cutting oil, but brown chlorene based sulpher oil for threading is expensive!

Does anyone know of a brand of clear cutting oil the is not so expensive?

Thanks,

Eric

[Chuck Reamer]

What kind of coolant have you been using? and at what concentration?

I would think that straight cutting oil would be a hell of a mess to work with all the time, and very expensive like you say. I have never seen a cheap enough cutting oil, not cheap enough to use a huge amount of.

Try to speak with a Tech Rep from your coolant manufacturer to see what they suggest.

I run dry on both my manual lathes at work and dont have any problems. I use a cutting oil for drilling and threading, but just run dry all of the time. A little lube on the ways and its usually as good as gold.

[miljnor]

Cnc and manual machines are different beasts!

You can't use one methodology on both types.

If your using synthetic water soluble I will assume your a CNC person if not then ignore my post.

I have used many coolants synthetic and otherwise.

out of all of them I have switched to Blaser lube. It mixes 10/1 water/oil and generally wont go bad if kept at these solution levels.

It is some form of vegetable oil base, so if your green conscience, then its a good one for you.

Of course if you eat or drink it, expect to die in short order and plan accordingly.

Most of the time when your machine is running low you need more coolant because the water evaporated and you can get away with a 1% add in solution. thus making it last alot longer.

[widgitmaster]

I should have been more specific, as I am running a 13x40 engine lathe.
I have a productive hobby shop, and machine a wide range of materials.
Trying to turn 303-SS or tool steel dry is hell on tooling, and generates a lot of heat. Turning MIC-6 aluminum can not be turned dry if you want to do more than one part! I have a 10 gallon sump with synthetic coolant mixed at 4oz/gallon

[Geof]

Originally Posted by widgitmaster ....synthetic coolant mixed at 4oz/gallon

Have you tried increasing the coolant concentration? I have found that going higher than the suppliers recommendation is sometimes necessary to stop rust. I think the concentration needs to be high enough to leave a thin, but not too thin, film of coolant on the machine surfaces when the water evaporates away.

[widgitmaster]

Originally Posted by Geof Have you tried increasing the coolant concentration? I have found that going higher than the suppliers recommendation is sometimes necessary to stop rust. I think the concentration needs to be high enough to leave a thin, but not too thin, film of coolant on the machine surfaces when the water evaporates away.

Thanks Geof, I'll try that first!

Eric

[davereagan]

4 ounces per gallon is 32:1, which is an extremely low concentration for any kind of coolant, even when only rust inhibition is desired, asin grinding. I would try 10 ounces per gallon and see what happens. If the lubricity is good enough, synthetics seem to last forever, but I've never had success tapping with them.


Dave

[in2steam]

Another thing you may want to try is on areas which are exposed but not always used, is spray some LPS 3 on. That forms a nice waxy barrier that keeps the cutting fluid out of, its esp nice on mills were the bed is not used alot, but works well on those lathe spots that don't see often use.
chris

[RICHARD ZASTROW]

Eric, Have you had your water tested? Might be a problem. Your coolant supplier should be able to test it for you. Many suppliers have specific formulations for given water conditions. Generally they are no more expensive, just variations in the mixtures. If the water is the problem, you are not alone in your local with this problem.

[miljnor]

They put so much chlorine in our water I had to go to di-water.

Wouldn't be surprised if it is your water..

Good call on that one.

[9566317]

I have a lot of equipment in my shop. Centerless grinders, 30 cnc machines,
Custom machining area and I think I run about every type of material out there. Permenant molded aluminum, Stainless \. Steels and cast irons.
I also think in the past 15 tears I have tried about every coolant and type out there. Full syntetics are hard on equipment as the lubricity packages in them are poor and tend to "gum up" measuring tools and eat rubber seals.Purpose of syntetics was to eleminate anirobc bacteria's that live on oils and gives you the nice Monday Morning rotten egg smell.Semi senthetics have a high oil package in the but because of the oils in it cause the stink.
I have been using a Houghton semi syntetic for 3 years now that was developed by Houghton and Boeing.I believe it is a Houghton 954. I use it at differant conentrations on differant machines.Cast iron and steel at 5 -7 %
Aluminum around 15 % Grinders at 2 % I have never had a Bacterial issue or stink and am happy with it. I do HAve poor water with High clorine levels.
In machines that sit for more than a week I have put a fish tank air pump on the machines just to bubble away in the coolant tank to keep the surfaces broken up and help keep the coolant fresh.Also put a oil skimmer on your tank as this will extend the life of your tank and will be nicer to work in.I also had a big drop in dermatitis in my employee's after changing to Houghtons product.
Hope this helps

[miljnor]

Originally Posted by 9566317 I have a lot of equipment in my shop. Centerless grinders, 30 cnc machines, Custom machining area and I think I run about every type of material out there. Permenant molded aluminum, Stainless \. Steels and cast irons. I also think in the past 15 tears I have tried about every coolant and type out there. Full syntetics are hard on equipment as the lubricity packages in them are poor and tend to "gum up" measuring tools and eat rubber seals.Purpose of syntetics was to eleminate anirobc bacteria's that live on oils and gives you the nice Monday Morning rotten egg smell.Semi senthetics have a high oil package in the but because of the oils in it cause the stink. I have been using a Houghton semi syntetic for 3 years now that was developed by Houghton and Boeing.I believe it is a Houghton 954. I use it at differant conentrations on differant machines.Cast iron and steel at 5 -7 % Aluminum around 15 % Grinders at 2 % I have never had a Bacterial issue or stink and am happy with it. I do HAve poor water with High clorine levels. In machines that sit for more than a week I have put a fish tank air pump on the machines just to bubble away in the coolant tank to keep the surfaces broken up and help keep the coolant fresh.Also put a oil skimmer on your tank as this will extend the life of your tank and will be nicer to work in.I also had a big drop in dermatitis in my employee's after changing to Houghtons product. Hope this helps

I have all these positive effects with Blaser oils as well.