Dumb Question - Air Compressor ?

[kochevnik]

I did a search here, but couldn't find anything - the CNC milling machine I saw on EBay has a requirement for 80 psi air in it's specs - what exactly is the air used for on an older CNC milling machine ? Pushing the coolant or something else ?

And what would be a normal CFM rating for a CNC mill that needs 80 psi ?

Thanks.

[ViperTX]

Probably has air bearing in the spindle....it would be nice if you specified a model number.....it would allow us to more accurately answer your query.

[nervis1]

Most have an air/oil mist for the spindle and run the tool changer in and out on air. The auto oilers are air powered on some. The tool retention and release is done by air on all I have seen. Figure most use 4-5 CFM and 100 psi, some a little more or less.

You need more than 100 psi because if you go under the machine will alarm. So you feed it 120-100 psi and set the regulator at the machine for 80psi.

[kochevnik]

Sorry, It's an Acromax MX-16, fotos and specs here :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...7663&rd=1&rd=1

[Al_The_Man]

Looks like an air cyclinder on top of the tool changer.

My older Knee mill takes needs air for the knee counterbalance lifter and the spindle brake.
AL.

[Geof]

In addition to what nervis 1 posted add some type of dryer to the requirements. The solenoid valves and things like that are fussy and do not like oil and water in the air.

[nervis1]

That machine looks like a heartache waiting to happen. It's about 1/2 the cost of a new Haas TM-1 too, save your money. Just my super duper humble opinion.



Edit:

Duh I just noticed it's sold already. Poor sap, 7k for a hard to find BT35 beat to hell machine, with some beat to hell tool holders, and impossible to find replacment parts. Ouch. Thing looks like it survived a fire or something.

Agree with the refrigerator dryer I just got one and am always surprised when it spits out 1/2 cup of water that would have gone into my spindle over a couple days.

[kochevnik]

... well now that you mention it - I'm not the poor sap who bought that machine, but I AM the poor sap who bought one of the 3 of these that were on EBay this week. I paid $ 4000 for it.

And we don't call it a heartache, we call it an adventure and a learning experience

I know that this could end up being a real dog, but I'm just a guy with a garage to fill and not a lot of money. According to the seller, it's in working condition, I can see it under power before I go down to load it on my truck, and it milled Aluminum all it's life. I found the manuals online, and Yasakawa appears to even still sell refurbs for the controls (not that I could afford them LOL). I have some good experience with controls and computers so I figured if worst came to worst and the thing died on me, I could always buy some Geckos and turn it into a very slow and very big mini-mill LOL . For $4000 it's about the same price as the only mini-mill I was looking at, and new toolholders are on EBay for like $30. Worst comes to worst, I figured I coud put it back on EBay to avoid a divorce LOL

Since the cat's out of the bag on my personal lapse of judgement I would GREATLY appreciate it if some of you guys with more experience could point out some things I should do or watch for when I first setup this machine. For example, I've got the manuals, and someone on another thread mentioned the importance of backing up your parameters first thing - is there a good way to do this ?

I found this NC software for $75 which says it works with the MX-1 Yasnac control that is on my machine :

http://www.aggsoft.com/dnc-precision/

Would something like this allow me to backup my parameters ? Would the manual usually have this info written in it somewhere ?

I got the info on a compressor now - and I'm lining up a Rotary Phase Converter.

So what else am I going to do/buy ??? (besides time with a shrink )

[nervis1]

No no you did fine. For 4k, you can toss some in for fixing little stuff here and there and have a really capable mill. 7k is a bit outta line. I don't think you did bad at all.

Now know this, I've bought two used machines that were running perfect when they were shipped and needed several thou in electronic and monitor repair after the move. Get it shipped on an air ride truck. Old machines do not like being moved. Look into replacement parts because you will need something eventually, drives, monitor, servos,

the little stuff can be had from places like Mcmaster carr, and reid supply, etc. Stuff like solenoids, and fittings. Get as much tooling as you can with it because BT35 is hard to find and when you can, it's expensive. Not common.

When you get it level it in place, don't set the casting over a seam in the floor.

Make sure the oilers work, no plugged lines.

Make sure there is adequate drawbar pressure because if there is not you will smoke the spindle right quick.

Yes back up all parameters right off the bat, by hand on paper so there is no way to lose them. Without correct parameters the machine is a paperweight.

If the prior owner had his wits there is alreadya hard parameter list sitting in the control cabinet.

The parameter list is something you will page to in the control, then write em all in, probably 20-50 mumbers, no big deal. Then if you ever lose them you have a hard copy.

If that machine has a RS232 port you should be able to down load them to your PC but I prefer paper, sitting in my safe.

Run your first program well above the table in single block mode at a minnimal rapid rate, double check it all.

What you bought there is ten times any converted mill drill.

Let us know how it goes.

and it milled Aluminum all it's life

"They" always say that.

That's what they said about my Fadal when I got it was covered in graphite dust.

My Mazak that had milled aluminum all it's life had cement like cast iron shavings jammed in the chuck. Roten bastar%$. LOL

[kochevnik]

"They" always say that.

That's what they said about my Fadal when I got it was covered in graphite dust.

My Mazak that had milled aluminum all it's life had cement like cast iron shavings jammed in the chuck. Roten bastar%$. LOL[/QUOTE]



Thanks Nervis ...

Ha ha ! Yeah this whole process reminds me of buying a used car

Can you give me an idea of how to check if there is adequate drawbar pressure ? (I'm a complete newbie with this level of machinery - I did some milling, but only with much smaller machines).

[Al_The_Man]

Originally Posted by kochevnik I found this NC software for $75 which says it works with the MX-1 Yasnac control that is on my machine : )

Take a look here, the single machine copy for the s/w is free.
http://www.cadem.com/ncnet/dnc-detai...yasnac-mx1.pdf

Good job you got the the manuals, on some older machines they work out to be worth as much as the machine. The oil lines were mentioned, I would replace the line-end metering devices, they are probabally original, flush out the lines before replacing them.
If your lucky it has Brushless servo's, if not check the brushes before running it.
Al.

[nervis1]

The poor mans way is to pry on a tool holder (between the spindle flange and tool holder flange )with something like a wide pry bar ( so you don't damage anything) and you should not be able to budge the tool holder, now I'm talking a gentle crank not hanging off it and jumping up and down, just a firm push.

The real way to do it is with a drawbar guage.

You can also (since this is a learning deal) pull the drawbar out and inspect the belville springs and make sure none are fractured. While you are at it replace them with new ones. Cheap insurance. 100 bucks max.