X-Y (Sliding) Table Recommendation

[edge]

I am looking for a recommendation on a x-y table to put on a drill press for occasional milling and more precise drilling. The typical materials I use would be plastics, aluminum and non-hardened steel, with workpieces about 3 x 5 inches. Does anyone have experience with the Grizzley G5757, LittleMachine shop 2008 or Harbor Frieght 47838-1VGA?


Thanks

[balsaman]

No recomendation but I know you need to watch because the morse taper on a drill press designed for drilling will come loose when subjected to the side loads of milling.

Eric

[Klox]

If it's possible you can make yourself a draw bar to fasten the Morse taper for an auto lock for milling. On cross slides you can take a look at www.knuth.de they have pictures of Cross Vices (they call it a Compound sliding table).
I have never worked with one so i can't give you an opinion.

Klox

[edge]

If it's possible you can make yourself a draw bar to fasten the Morse taper for an auto lock for milling.

Do you know where I can find instructions on how to do this?

[Klox]

Edge,
Does the drill you intend using has a hollow spindle? If so it's relativey easy.
You just need a arbor for your drill chuck that can accomodate a draw bar. Auto locks uses draw bars (most of the time). I know that you get adaptor sleeves from R8 to Morse taper.....(if neccasary)

A high tensile threaded bar that goes through the spindle with a nice thick spacer beneath a nut will do the job, that's if the spindle is hollow. If not i think you must stick to drilling only. (too much machining, too expensive to modify the machine....).

Klox

[edge]

Ok, I think I understand - the Morse taper is fastened to the spindle (press fit?) to take the axial loads of drilling. The draw bar is placed through the hollow spindle and Morse taper, and then a nut is fastened on each end. This will put an axial clamping force to hold the Morse taper into the spindle and won't allow it to work loose.

I have'nt purchase the drill press yet, so I might be in luck. I was considering a Ryobi 12", 1/2 hp, 12 speed. Can I just look at the machine without dissassembling?

[Klox]

Yes.
Just do your homework first on the adaptor sleeves, availibility etc....
I have a small milling machine (Taiwanese made) that makes use of a draw bar to hold the drill chuck & the auto lock. The drill chuck makes use of a morse taper. The adaptor sleeve is cut open at the tang to open up the adaptor sleeve for the draw bar...

Good luck!

Klox

[steele]

Why do you want to do this? Unless you have a space or weight problem go buy a used milling machine like a Bridgeport. Used machinery is incredably cheap these days and you'll thank yourself later when you have a real machine to work with even if you had to fix it up a little.

[edge]

Both a space and weight problem. I might consider a mini-mill at some point, though. These machines would basically be used for concept (rough) prototypes. Anything more precise, and I would have them sent to a model shop CNC or other proto method.

[HuFlungDung]

A drill press spindle is the sh!ts for milling with. They have entirely too much overhang and improper bearing support. They are designed for axial thrust, not radial thrust of milling.

Like Steele says, scrounge around for something with a real mill spindle on it. Get the XY table for free. Put it out in the backyard if you have to. I've always wanted to machine outside