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Thread: RETROFIT OF RADIAL DRILL MACHINE INTO CNC MILL

  1. #37
    Registered Zygoat's Avatar
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    how exactly was this accomplished? where can i find more info?


  2. #38
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    what kind of info are you looking for? In the simplest form - you need 3 inputs open to read the encoder. within emc you virtually hook up a few pins that connects the encoder to the guts of emc. If you are using the printer port for reading the encoder - you are limited by how fast the computer can count. Say you have a 100 line encoder on the spinde (400 quadrature) on decent computer hardware you should be able to count into the 20-40khz range. so - you should be able to count up to the 3000 - 6000rpm. As long as the axis can keep up with the spindle reversal - you are golden.

    There is a lot of cheap interface hardware out there for emc that will move the encoder counting and pwm outside of the computer which doesn't tax the computer.

    sam

    Quote Originally Posted by Zygoat View Post
    how exactly was this accomplished? where can i find more info?


  3. #39
    Registered Zygoat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by samco View Post
    There is a lot of cheap interface hardware out there for emc that will move the encoder counting and pwm outside of the computer which doesn't tax the computer.

    sam
    do you have any links to such hardware?

    thanks for your help.


  4. #40
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    LinuxCNC Documentation Wiki: LinuxCNC Supported Hardware

    mesa and pico are probably the most popular. I am using mesa hardware and love it. Have a look at the 5i25 - it his mesa's latest pci card that has a bunch of options.

    sam


  • #41
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    This is the 2nd Part i machined out of SS316, 30mm thick plate.
    Used Facing, Profiling, engraving and drilling operation.

    I am getting gouging at smaller radius wall of the part.

    Thank You Zafar for converting this into CNC . I can easily get 0.5mm deep cut on SS316 but my spindle motor is week for more than 0.5mm cut.
    Here is the Video:
    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUttTrtwpvc&feature=g-upl&context=G2935e6bAUAAAAAAAAAA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUttTrtwpvc&feature=g-upl&context=G2935e6bAUAAAAAAAAAA
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  • #42
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    Some Pictures of the finished product:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RETROFIT OF RADIAL DRILL MACHINE INTO CNC MILL-1.jpg   RETROFIT OF RADIAL DRILL MACHINE INTO CNC MILL-3.jpg   RETROFIT OF RADIAL DRILL MACHINE INTO CNC MILL-2.jpg  
    Last edited by Khalid; 03-17-2012 at 12:56 PM.
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  • #43
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    Hi Khalid
    Nice work!! Congratullations..

    By the way.
    I post you a PM.
    Could you help me?
    Regards
    Rene


  • #44
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    Wow, Khalid. You are already making parts on this mill. I thought you'll give it some break-in time. Did you do the engraving with the tool I made?

    For the spindle stalling problem, I guess you are using too low frequency for the motor. Using SS tools perhaps. I'd suggest using carbide tools and high rpm's above 1500 or so. You'll need good collets and holders too. I'll get some for you on my next visit.

    Zafar


    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    This is the 2nd Part i machined out of SS316, 30mm thick plate.
    Used Facing, Profiling, engraving and drilling operation.

    I am getting gouging at smaller radius wall of the part.

    Thank You Zafar for converting this into CNC . I can easily get 0.5mm deep cut on SS316 but my spindle motor is week for more than 0.5mm cut.
    Here is the Video:


  • #45
    Registered Khalid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zafarsalam View Post
    Wow, Khalid. You are already making parts on this mill. I thought you'll give it some break-in time. Did you do the engraving with the tool I made?

    For the spindle stalling problem, I guess you are using too low frequency for the motor. Using SS tools perhaps. I'd suggest using carbide tools and high rpm's above 1500 or so. You'll need good collets and holders too. I'll get some for you on my next visit.

    Zafar
    Dear Zafar,
    Thanks for the suggestion about increasing RPM of Spindle Motor and use of Carbide tool. I did that engraving with your machined tool...I have got slight depth in consequent engraving and that might be due to spindle warming.. So we made a rule of thumb as to start Spindle and wait for 5 minutes before pressing the Cycle Start..

    I shall wait for the Collets and Holders and i hope you shall send us as early as possible as our TA of Plant begins from coming Monday so we need them most..

    I am getting some tool gouging marks at smaller radius walls.. Whereas The bigger radius seems smooth at the entire place, only a small gouging mark at tool entry location at bigger radius..I have to change entry /exit parameters outside the part to get smooth finish..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RETROFIT OF RADIAL DRILL MACHINE INTO CNC MILL-gouging.jpg   RETROFIT OF RADIAL DRILL MACHINE INTO CNC MILL-2.jpg  
    Last edited by Khalid; 03-18-2012 at 01:16 PM.
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  • #46
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    To get rid of that gouge mark, try to use a lead-in, lead-out if you can. It creates a small radius at the end of the tool path. Lead-outs at the bottom of a part like that will need clearance, otherwise you'll crash the tool into the left over stock. You could also use a ramp, instead of many depth-of-cut passes.

    And I like that spindle light. Is it LED? I'm getting 2 of these: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices from China, and I hope they'll produce lots of light.
    Shaun
    my x2 conversion ------> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36403


  • #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Dear Zafar,
    Thanks for the suggestion about increasing RPM of Spindle Motor and use of Carbide tool. I did that engraving with your machined tool...I have got slight depth in consequent engraving and that might be due to spindle warming.. So we made a rule of thumb as to start Spindle and wait for 5 minutes before pressing the Cycle Start..

    I shall wait for the Collets and Holders and i hope you shall send us as early as possible as our TA of Plant begins from coming Monday so we need them most..

    I am getting some tool gouging marks at smaller radius walls.. Whereas The bigger radius seems smooth at the entire place, only a small gouging mark at tool entry location at bigger radius..I have to change entry /exit parameters outside the part to get smooth finish..
    Khalid,

    I would suggest using lead-in and lead-out to remove the gouge marks and also use rough and finish passes. I buy my tool holders and collets from KTD (PVT.) LIMITED you can contact them on the phone numbers at their website and inquire about the availability of ER40 collet holders and collets with MT5 shank. The ones I have are with BT40 shank. If you have adopters for BT40 then you can get these too. I'll be out of town this week. You can ask Mr. Nooruddin to buy the tool collets/holders for you and send them to you.

    The engraving tool cutting again on the same depth of cut is due to your tool runout. It is not producing a smooth cut so it appears that it is cutting again with subsequent cuts. I had noticed it when I tested your machine with that tool. A good collet holder will take care of that.

    Zafar


  • #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by skmetal7 View Post
    To get rid of that gouge mark, try to use a lead-in, lead-out if you can. It creates a small radius at the end of the tool path. Lead-outs at the bottom of a part like that will need clearance, otherwise you'll crash the tool into the left over stock. You could also use a ramp, instead of many depth-of-cut passes.

    And I like that spindle light. Is it LED? I'm getting 2 of these: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices from China, and I hope they'll produce lots of light.
    Hi,
    I used 3D Ramping for each passes for that part... but it is a good idea to use tangential lead-in and lead-out in my next oncoming part.....
    Yes this is 10Watt LED Light (220VAC) i purchased for 14 US Dollars in local store... The light is too bright and awesome...
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


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