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#1
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| Hello to all, this is my second post. ![]() Have been working for almost 8 years on a CNC lathe (soon, when things at work will be less chaotic, to be a 5-axis mill operator), the machine's a "CMT, URSUS PLUS 250". Before I've always parted case-hardened rods with a cropper, can imagine what cloud of dust is around when I've to crop 32 pieces (Ø40 mm). Anyhoo, have not parted them with the lathe as have never had the right utensils to do so. One can think: "in EIGHT years you've never upgraded yourself?!". Well, yes, as have only started from August this year to work PROPERLY with the new supervisors; now with these guys in charge I've finally the chance in choosing by myself the appropriate tools. To avoid having all that dust around, are there any utensils specifically designed to part surface-hardened rods? Thanks to whoever will answer. |
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#5
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| Thanks for the reply though. |
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#6
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| greenleaf makes a whisker ceramic that may just do the trick for you. I thinks it wg-300 or something like that!
__________________ "It's only funny until some one get's hurt, and then it's just hilarious!!" Mike Patton - Faith No More Ricochet |
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#7
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| I found straight ceramic a bit to brittle the cermits i beleive are a ceramic and carbide mix they worked quite well for my application,i think they were a sanvic or a kennametal product i will have a look through the workshopn and try and find the exact name/number.Regards Greg |
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#8
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| These Green leaf are Ceramic reinforced with Carbide. Have used them on inconel for grooving with good results. Just make sure you have sufficient RPM and rigidity in your setup!!!
__________________ "It's only funny until some one get's hurt, and then it's just hilarious!!" Mike Patton - Faith No More Ricochet |
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#9
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| Forget all that outerspace stuff and just use carbide. Wing the lathe up to as much RPMs that you feel is safe and go for it. The mistake most people make with parting tools is the don't feed the tool in fast enough. If you really stand on it you will see a little fire but the carbide will go through the case like cheese.
__________________ Be carefull what you wish for, you might get it. |
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#10
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I have tried with the usual parting insert but regardless the RPMs they still chip and cut terribly. It has also blocked the X-axis, stopping completely the lathe... and from that experience comes this post. I don't want to ruin that machine, it may has its years and may not be modern like the new 24 axis (kidding) machines, but it really still works great. Plus, I've learned a lot thanks to all these YouTube and VideoGoogle vids and want to better myself more. |
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#11
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| JROM - yeah right ! Deusrexmachina - You might want to try this ( used it for case hardened components and hard chomed bar ) Before parting off actually turn off the 'skin' using a 0.4R 35 deg turn tip (VNMG) in something like a TP300 grade ( SECO ) with this tool you can feed into the bar at 45 deg ( 0.02 per rev ) to just under case depth ( 0.3) turn along ( ie 3mm tip width ) then feed out 45 deg . then call up part off tool and pt. off as per normal in the softer material. have fun! ST |
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#12
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| Hi star-turn, and thanks for your reply. Sorry if I didn't answer right away, but work has been... pretty fulfilling, to say the least. Add the fact that I've also injured myself and had to stay home for 7 days; have fully recovered from that: simply a deep cut on my left hand's fourth finger. ![]() Have found the right utensil, will type down it's code tomorrow. It's pretty good considering being only 2 mm wide. 'Nighto. ![]()
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