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#3
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| Sand with very fine grit sandpaper and rub them out with a fine polishing compound.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#8
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| Drilling or machining without removal of masking film/ paper is the best economical way to have a shiny Lexan part. all others stand next to best
__________________ Chan Luci, Techie www.custompartsonline.com |
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#9
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| The easiest option for polishing the edges on lexan is the MEK wipe. It does need to be a smooth edge even with this or it will look rough and shiney. Flame polishing on lexan is much more difficult than on acrylic. It requires in the neighborhood of 375 to 475 degrees F. The difficulty I have experienced with it is because of the moisture inside the lexan. Too hot and it will bubble up on you. Not hot enough and it doesn't do anything. I have read where manufacturers remove the moisture in large ovens or kilns and the cook time is more than 24 hours. They do this just prior to heating and forming. They don't get the moisture bubbles in the finished product this way. I make lexan blade guards and I have found that the finished edge I use is the easiest and actually looks fine. I use sharp carbide tools to cut the form out, then I round over the outside edge with a sharp round over bit. The edge is left smooth and translucent. Not opaque and not truly transparent. Finishing the edges in other ways takes a heck of a lot of time and effort for very little gain in appearance IMO.
__________________ Lee |
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