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very sharp carbide end mill high rpm and feed with spray mist. If you go slow you will melt
Hi all,
How to make Lexan machined parts clear and shine as before machining?
thank you
very sharp carbide end mill high rpm and feed with spray mist. If you go slow you will melt
Sand with very fine grit sandpaper and rub them out with a fine polishing compound.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
sand fine , then use propane torch and very quick and lightly go back and forth, don,t have the flame to close or you,ll melt it, do a test piece first to get the feel for it.
sanding and polishing are not the option, because it's small part, small fins.
are there any other way? chemical process?
thanks
Clear acryllic spray, but you need to be able to at least sand blast lightly if its small hard to reach areas.
If its just the edges then the quickest way is to scrape or sand the edge and wipe MEK on it in one smooth single pass with a cloth.
clean lexan Drilling or machining without removal of masking film/ paper is the best economical way to have a shiny Lexan part. all others stand next to best
Chan Luci, Techie
www.custompartsonline.com
The easiest option for polishing the edges on lexan is the MEK wipe.
It does need to be a smooth edge even with this or it will look rough and shiney.
Flame polishing on lexan is much more difficult than on acrylic. It requires in the neighborhood of 375 to 475 degrees F. The difficulty I have experienced with it is because of the moisture inside the lexan. Too hot and it will bubble up on you. Not hot enough and it doesn't do anything. I have read where manufacturers remove the moisture in large ovens or kilns and the cook time is more than 24 hours. They do this just prior to heating and forming. They don't get the moisture bubbles in the finished product this way.
I make lexan blade guards and I have found that the finished edge I use is the easiest and actually looks fine. I use sharp carbide tools to cut the form out, then I round over the outside edge with a sharp round over bit. The edge is left smooth and translucent. Not opaque and not truly transparent. Finishing the edges in other ways takes a heck of a lot of time and effort for very little gain in appearance IMO.
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