Moshidraw is not good. It can work but it's finicky. Moshidraw does have CorelDraw integration, there is a config CorelDraw button in the settings screen which will install a CorelDraw plugin. You can then use it to export directly from CorelDraw to MoshiDraw. That should help with the odd circle cutting issue. I did have problems exporting as bitmap but vectors always worked for me.1) I'm making files in Illustrator CS5, saving as uncompressed 10 .ai's, importing into CorelDraw 11, exporting as HPGL, and sending to the cutter via Moshidraw. Most small circles are cut twice, larger circles and squares are not? Why? Is there any better way to do this? 95% of the time I will be cutting. Is NewlySeal/NeawlyDraw entirely useless as well? It was supposed to be included, I think, but I didn't get it.
Not sure how bad this could negatively affect it, but it can't be in the "good" category.2) There was a broken piece of glass in the laser tube, is that an issue?
Probably not for this machine the cutting area is not deep enough to deal with that focal length.3) Would a 100mm (4 Inch) lens work out better for cutting, even if the materials are not that thick? Most things will be .1-.25". Just get the cheapest 18mm 100mm CO2 lens on eBay and drop it in?
No, the cutting bed on this machine is not adjustable. You will have to remove the existing cutting bed and create your own. I replaced it with some standoffs and angle iron and then used some aluminum egg crate. I then cut several 1/8" and 1/16" shims to raise the egg crate enough to raise it to focus on a piece of paper. I then remove enough shims to equal the material I'm engraving/cutting.4) Is there any good way to adjust the height of the work to easily focus the beam? I've just been dropping things down and cutting, and it works for the most part.
This is the way a laser works. The beam is smallest at it's focal point (58mm or so with the default lens) and tappers down to that above and tappers out below. To get the best cut raise the bed so the focal point is halfway through the material your cutting.5) All edges are not cut very vertical. This is actually better on thicker materials, but fairly bad on thinner ones, is this from the laser being out of focus? Would a 4" focal length lens help this, by making focus less critical? The bottom of the cut is narrower than the top, and the 'edge' formed always points away from the piece. The sides are always 'pyramid' shaped on 1/16 - 1/8" acrylic. Its barely noticeable on the 1/4" acrylic.
45mm/s is a very fast cut on acrylic for this machine. You'll get much smoother cuts if you slow it down. I cut acrylic form 6 - 10mm a second with about 30%-80% power depending on thickness. I could probably raise the power and go somewhat faster but the edges is not as nice.6) I've basically been using 10mA for everything, since above that isn't really helping. As low as I can get it to reliably fire is about 4mA, 5mA works best. That burns quite deep into acrylic engraving at 45mm/s with that power. No way to improve this? Nothing wrong with running 10mA all day?
Items 5 and 6 are definitely affected by 4. You are not focused at the beams best power concentration which will affect cutting power and change the angle which is noticed on the material. The fixed cutting bed is one of the biggest physical limitations of this machine, and once you fix that MoshiDraw/Controller is next. I upgraded my controller to a DSP based one and have been VERY happy (it has it's own quirks but is light years beyond MoshiDraw).