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#1
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Could someone please post a pic of their 9x20 lathe preferably one with the 3/4 hp motor. I need a pic of the wiring in the terminal of the motor itself. It should be just 2 screws to take the wiring cover off the motor. ANy help would greatly be appreciated. Just got this motor and its bigger than the old one and has six terminals for connections (old one had 4 wires)so I would hate to wire it wrong and blow out my new motor. |
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#4
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| Thats my old motor wiring there Al. ![]() This is what I got. When I turn the switch forward , I get a cont. reading on the brown wire and the blk wire. If I turn it reverse then I get a reading on the brown wire and the blk wire coming from the cap. I get no cont. reading on the blue wire either forward or reverse. For the life of me I cannot figure this out. I was thinking these copper bus things on the motor terminal might be messing me up as I left them the way they came, I'm not sure if I should move them or not, any ideas? |
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#5
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| I may have the connections some where, I mapped it out some time ago for another poster. I will see if I can find it for tomorrow AM, its 10PM here now. Al.
__________________ CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Machine Design. “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.” Albert E. |
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#7
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| OK I did not find the exact connections but it should not be hard to work out. This is a previous post. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...ighlight=13amp Essentially what you need to do is identify two circuits, one is the run winding, which should measure a few ohms across, the other circuit pair you need is the cap in series with the start winding. One of these pair is reversed by the reversing switch. On my original motor, the Red-Black was the run winding and the White-Blue the cap/start pair. Obviously you will not need some of the jumpers as the motor will be reversed externally to simulate the jumpers. So if you can identify or set up the two circuit pairs, you should be able to get some success. The important thing is that before hooking up to the switch, both start and run pairs have to be separate from each other. In the link picture, the cap is connected from V1 to Z1. See if you get continuity between Z1 and Z2 as I figured this would be the start winding? Al.
__________________ CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Machine Design. “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.” Albert E. |
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#8
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| I think I got it! I can forward and reverse the motor with no burning smell(this is good right?) Now I have another problem the replacement motor is way larger than the old motor so now the belts are not going on tight. Well thanks again Al!!! Ya got me thinkin and I figured her out!!! |
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