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#1
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I got this ps off ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWN:IT and here is some info I found on it http://www.lambdapower.com/ftp/Manuals/JFS1500_a.PDF I guess I was looking for a 3 prong plug to plug into like a computer but I think I have to connect my own wires to the screw terminals from an outlet and I guess the output is from the 2 metal bars? Do I need to hook up any capacitors on the outlet before it goes to the drives? These are the motors I'm using 2 are the cliffton precision 36v 20a cheap ones that I have seen elsewhere on this site and the z axis is 38.2 volt winding with the following characteristics; torque constant......8.22 oz-in/amp back emf constant....6.08 volts/krpm resistance...........7.3 ohms inductance...........6.35 mH I am using 3 gecko 340 drives. Do I need anything else to make this work? Thanks. Greg |
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#2
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| Took a quick look at the PDF, yep, hot and neutral to the two connectors on the barrier strip, ground to the main case someplace, might even be a stud ready for it... outputs on the bus bars, regulation capacitors would probably be better near the controllers, depending on how long the power leads are, might have to do a bit on the sense circuit to get the actual voltage you want, specs say ?36 to 56? I think, will probably go to the high end without a reference.. nice supply, half decent price on it too.. enjoy. |
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#4
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| Thanks for the help guys!!! Now for question 2 I have no experience with capacitors. Just know what they do basically and seen that they are mentioned alot when a ps question comes up, also am good at discharging them the not so painless way. So what kind or which ones do I need and where can I get them and how do you hook them up? I guess if there is a website or something I could read that would make it alot easier on you guys. Thanks again Greg |
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#5
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| The input capacitor [from the controller's viewpoint], reduces peak current drawn from the input supply, and reduces radiated noise to other elements of the system. Most data sheets either suggest specific values or give equations for calculating the input capacitor value. Make sure the capacitor is specified with a ripple-current rating near the selected switching frequency, as your supply appears to be a switching type from the PDF.. short version, grab something that's at least 30% over your rated supply voltage , or around 100vDC, and as for size, my personal opinion is to choose ones from the spare parts box around 1" diameter, and 3" long, yep looks right for around 3A controller size, bigger controller ?? bigger capacitor, just to keep surges under control.. Power feed lines preferably in a 'star' configuration, and the filter caps right next to the controller.. If you have less than a foot or so of power lead to the controller, you probably can just rely on the ones internal to your power supply, it looks hefty enough, and good enough quality that they 'probably' didn't cheap out on the final output capacitors.. If you're running 20 feet or more of supply, then it's time to consider shielded twisted pair to keep RF and EMF down.. enjoy.. |
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#6
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| I went to measure the dc volts out and I get a reading of 1.5 volts? Now I only have limited experience with voltmeters so I thought I might be on the wrong setting or something so I had a 8 cell batery pack lying around and decided to check it and left everything the same I got a reading of 10.2 volts which is probably right I don't know what state of charge its in. Does this supply have something blown in it, the cooling fan comes on and I didn't see the "magic smoke" come out. Any thoughts? Greg |
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#7
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| looked at your PDF manual again...let's see Is the green led lit for "Output Good Indicator" looks like it should be set up [in our case] for local sense mode.. pins 1 [+S] to 2 [+LS] and pins 4 {-S] to 3 [-LS] and 5 [PROG] can't think of anything else.. |
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#8
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| Vlad, I guess that is the part I don't get the senseing. I got some pins on the back but they are a little different than what they show on the drawing. Let me get a pic of it and this unit was pulled from a factory unit and I don't have the cover that goes on it. There is the hole for the led but looking closer there is no led in it maybe these were customized for the factories need and they were modified a bit? give me a minute to get that pic I see your on line. How much longer? Greg |
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#10
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| Okay, I just glanced at the manual. You have remote sense which are basically V+ must be connected to S+ and V- must be connected to S-....all this allows the power supply to attemp to regulate its voltage. It also appears that you have remote control pins which if not connected as needed will disable the output.... Print out the manual and read it closely...I'm at home and dread a 40 page printout... |
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#11
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| The remote voltage control is enabled by jumpering pins 7 and eight, not jumpered, no output inhibit.. so output 'should ' be there.. Silly question, did you check the two fuses ??? nope, the PDF doesn't match the photo.. ?? is it really a JFS series , or are you just missing some covers [and a connection adapter] as well ?? |
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#12
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| Is there anyway to check the pins with a voltmeter? I think that it is just missing the cover and adapter I emailed Lambda and they said it was a jfs and thought that the customer had put an adapter on the 12 pin conf. where it looks like the customer took the 12 pin connector off. I can follow the paths on the board pretty well until they get hidden by other parts. I could take it apart and follow it better but I still don't know what I'm looking at if I did follow the paths. Other thing I can't find the fuses they might be hidden and I don't know what they look like. Greg |
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