Circut board etching

[WOODKNACK]

I have a BMP file already to put on to a board. My question is what should I use to put the image to the board so I can etch it? Is there anyway I can use a bubble jet printer and certain paper to get the image to the board?

[CNCadmin]

Why etch it? I used a V bit and engraved it on my CNC machine.

[WOODKNACK]

Ya I would to if I had a machine done. right now im in limbo Building my machine.

So I need to etch a board for the hell of it. I need to transfer the image to the board.

[CNCadmin]

Oh :chinese: - you can use a heat transfer paper that you print out on your printer than iron on your board. TRy here- http://www.clarc.org/Articles/laserpcb.html

[abasir]

Three options for you.
1) Use UV method but you need UV source, coated board, inkjet transparency, etc.
2) Print it mirror image on normal paper then photocopy it to the glossy inkjet paper and iron on to the normal PCB board.
3) If you have access to laser printer, just print it direct to the glossy inkjet paper (mirror image) and iron on.

FYI, for small board, I just laser print on the backing paper of self adhesive labels.

[abasir]

CNCAdmin,
What isolation width can you get with the V-Bit?
Can you get track between normal IC pins (0.1" between centers) ?

[cbcnc]

I have seen references to using clay faced paper that you can obtain at the stationary store. Laser print your image and iron on to your finely cleaned copper board.
Check this out:
http://www.buildyouridea.com/hardwar...er/4_axis.html
While you are at it, look at Dave's machine.
http://www.buildyouridea.com/hardware_projects.html

Chris

[WOODKNACK]

thanks guys for the help.. I have tried glossy paper printed from a laser printer. cant seem to get it all on the board. some peels up. Is there any good way of doing that?

[abasir]

Peel up may be due to few things:
a) Iron not hot enough or ironing is too short.
b) PCB is not clean. I normally scrub it with fine stainless steel wool (for kitchen use) until it is shiny.
c) Paper is removed too fast. Let it cool first or soak it in water for some time before removing it.

It will take a few try until you get the right combination of heat/time/soaking time etc. I normally have to readjust whenever I change toner cartridges! Different brands have different characteristics.

How big is the board? Although I have UV setup (homemade off course), sometime I still use the toner method. I bought A4 size self adhesive sticker, use the sticker for other thing but I keep the backing paper. Before putting it in the laser printer, I slightly roughens the surface (shiny side) with scouring pad. I could get almost 100% transfer with this method for board upto 4x6".

Happy trying 8-)

[anoel]

The Press-n-Peel Blue transfer paper is about the only reliable way to go without going the Photo technique.

I've tried the label backer and an embarrasing number of other methods.

Whenever I need to etch a PCB reliably with small traces I'll order a photosensitive PCB from Mouser and burn it with a transparancy. You can get uberprecise that way and not goof up.

I keep a few sheets of Press-N-Peel around for when I need to work in a hurry and don't want to wait for my order.

You can get individual sheets very reasonably from Steve Daniels at http://www.smallbearelec.com/ (A "Very" reliable source for various somewhat hard to find electronics. btw)

[abasir]

Not sure about your requirement.

Most of my tracks are about 24mils but reduced to 15mils for confined areas such as between IC pads. Isolation is about 15mils also.

For smaller trace, I just use UV method.