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#2
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| This probably isn't the best way but it works for me... What I do is use laquer thinner on the solder side of the board and make sure I don't get it on any of the components. The I spray the solder side with clear coat paint. I've done this on several small projects and it seems to hold up well and protect the traces from corosion.
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#3
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| There are commercial cans of both flux remover and the coating which is refered to as 'Conformal Coating' , this is a form of laquer (there is also conformal coating remover which is basically the same as paint remover). Al
__________________ CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Machine Design. “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.” Albert E. |
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#4
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| I scrub my boards with a water based foam cleaner from a spray can. And then rinse under running water and dry. It's called electrolube safewash 2000. Once the board is properly clean i have never had any problems with corrosion. I wouldn't be afraid of trying some kind of detergent and water on a board. "Real" boards are washed with water these days and the components are ok to get wet provided you dry them promptly. |
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#5
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| Usually use lacquer thinner or other similar solvent... then I've taken to tinning the copper traces with iron & thin coat of solder.... really quite easy and quick once you get the hang of it... |
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#6
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| I have found that if you intend using circuit boards in a shop that temperatures fluctuate over the seasons, I have seen some corrosion that occurs even if you clean them, I use the M.G. Chemicals 'Silicone Conformal Coating' it comes in aerosol can form as well as in a quart can. This gives some protection to corrosion as well as the problem you might get with metalic dust, this also does not harm the components like some petroleum based laquers might. You still have to wash the flux off however. Al
__________________ CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Machine Design. “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.” Albert E. |
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