Needs some wiring help... please

[nosplinters]

Hi all,

I'm building a new controller and figured I'd get some expert advice before I blow something up.

If you'd be so kind as to take a look at the schematic and let me know if I have the wiring correct or if there's a better way of doing things.

Here's the parts I'm dealing with.

PARTS:
24V Xylotex power supply
Xylotex 4th axis driver board
Campbell design Combo board (with spindle relay)
two 110V receptacles
one 24V DC lamp
one e-stop switch with four NC contacts
one 110V power switch
one 10Amp fuse holder (not sure if I really need one of these)

Here's what I'm trying to accomplish.

1. I want to have one of the receptacle always powered up when I hit the main switch

2. The second receptacle will only be powered up via the onboard relay (controlled through Mach3)

3. When the E-stop is hit I want to kill power to the 24V DC line that feeds the Xylotex controller. It will also send a signal to the comboboard with will in turn drop the relay and cut 110VAC to the receptacle (Mach3 handles this)

4. When the E-stop is pressed it will also power off the 24V DC lamp

I believe that I have the E-stop shown wired correctly, it's mainly the AC stuff I'm not too sure about. Robert Campbell from Campbell Design told me how the E-stop and Relay works in conjunction with Mach3.

One concern I have is killing power to the 24V DC line that feeds to the Xylotex card. If I reset the E-stop; therfore, creating the 24V circuit, will this damage the card?

All bold lines are the AC lines (hopefully it makes sense).

Please forgive my ignorance, it's been a while since I've messed with circuitry and don't want to go more in debt if I wire things wrong.

I also left out the details on the board, if you need more info, please holler.

Thanks!
-Ed

[vger]

You have both L1 and L2 going to the combo board. Are you using 2 of the relays on the combo board to control the 110 outlet?
If not:

1. Disconnect the line from L2 to the combo board and connect it to the outlet's L2 side (if the outlet is a duplex with the jumper tabs still in place, L2 is already connected there).

2. Ensure L1 is connected to the COM terminal of the relay you are using (J16 if you are using the run relay).

3. Connect the NO relay contactof the relay (J16 if you are using the run realy) to the L1 side of the controlled outlet (if the outlet is a duplex, ensure the jumper tab on the L1 side is removed).

I'm assuming your EPO is a DPST normaly closed switch. Mushroom head pushbutton?
Everything else looks OK.
The users manual PDF that's online has several typo's in the J connector pinout area.
On the first page it says "J18-20 PCgnd"
(picture shows J18 and J19 as relay connections)

On the second page the relay connections show:

NC Normally closed correct
Com is the center terminal correct
NO Normally closed INCORRECT, should be "NO Normally Open"

I think they could use a new tech writer (or tech proof reader)

Best of luck

Steve

[nosplinters]

Hi Steve,

Thanks a lot for your input.

I'm a bit confused about the AC going to the combo board. I see on the combo board that J21 is a two terminal block that is labeled 115/220 on it.

Don't I need one of those with L1 and the other L2? I'm using the new Rev 5 Comboboard (if that matters).

My Run relay is labeled J17 with the following order

NO | RUN | NC


Is the RUN terminal what you're considering the COM terminal?

The two receptacles that I'm using are individual 15AMP 120V. They're the type that lock into a front panel, not like the standard house hold type outlet.

The e-stop is one of the big red mushroom types DPST (NC).

Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks again!
-Ed

[vger]

Yes, you will need L1 and L2 going to the combo board for it's power supply. And the jumpers installed to set the voltage for 110.

The run relay connections are only the contacts of the relay. There is no power available there. In order to switch L1 on and off to your spindle motor, you would need to wire the L1 coming from the main power switch to the COM (center connection) probably labeled "RUN" and wire the "NO" connector to the L1 side of your spindle motor outlet. The L2 side of the spindle motor outlet would go to the L2 wire (bold green in your drawing)

Hope that clarifies..

Steve

[nosplinters]

Hi Steve,

I updated the main circuit that I originally posted. You should see the changes to the schematic in my first post. I added the terminal numbers and cleaned things up a bit as well as the AC lamp that I was missing.

Am I closer now?

Thanks
-Ed

[ger21]

Originally Posted by nosplinters One concern I have is killing power to the 24V DC line that feeds to the Xylotex card. If I reset the E-stop; therfore, creating the 24V circuit, will this damage the card?

Someone recently asked this on the Xylotex support group. Xylotex said to cut the power to the power supply, don't cut the DC power. He didn't say if it would cause damage or not.

[nosplinters]

Hi Gerry,

Initially I was thinking about cutting the AC power; however, I didn't want to kill the secondary AC receptacle at the same time as well as having basically two power switches. I think what I might try first is to eliminate the second contacts on the EPO alltogether. When Mach3 and the combo board sense the open circuit the combo board will open the 110VAC Run relay; thereby killing power to the spindle receptacle. The killing of the 24V line was mainly as a precautionary step to make sure the steppers no longer move. I'm pretty confident the combo board will handle this.

Thanks
-Ed

[ger21]

Originally Posted by nosplinters The killing of the 24V line was mainly as a precautionary step to make sure the steppers no longer move. I'm pretty confident the combo board will handle this. Thanks -Ed

You could use the enable pins on the Xylotex.

[vger]

Ed,

What you have there will work. However you are turning the spindle motor off and on by switching the L2 line (neutral). The L1 (hot) side of the line is always connected to the spindle motor outlet.

Here is the reccommended change

Steve

[nosplinters]

Good deal!

Thanks Steve.

Now I just need the rest of the parts and I'll be good to go.

-Ed

[nosplinters]

Hi all,

I thought I'd give you a peek at what the wiring was for.
So far no smoke.

Big thanks goes out to Steve for his wiring modification.

-Ed

[vger]

Ed,

Very nice ! Always great to see it all come together.

Steve