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Old 01-13-2008, 06:19 PM
 
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Brake press CNC back gauge control

I have a 10' Chicago brake press with an older gantry type back gauge. Unfortunatly the control is damaged beyond repair. I have an interest in learning about motion control and would welcome any suggestions that would help me get the back gauge working again. The cross bar is desigend in such a way to allow for some "angle" operation. There is a servo motor and encoder on each side that more or less operate in unison. The motors are electrohome 12v which drive screws through a 2:1 (or so) gear belt. The separate encoders are coupled to the (driven) screws. The screws move the carriages .200 per revolution. Basically I need to have the motors move all the way out to 36" to initialize (find "zero") then move in to say 4" then I want to make an adjustment to one side to get paralell. Then I need to be able to key in a certain dimension and have the back gauge to move to that point. It would really be great to be able to program in a few different bends - ie: go to 2" then 3" then 5" then repeat. That would be triggered by a switch on the ram. In my search to find a solution, I found a copany called Galil in California. They say I need a pci card, cable, amplifier, power supply, and they say the lowest voltage the amp can work with is 18 volt so I even need motor/encoders. All this ends up to be over 3,000 plus I have to learn "Galilian". There must be an easier way. This is just a simple gantry type application with two axis and some kind of simple pc graphic interface to show position and allow simple comands. No contouring or anything fancy. Any suggestions on a good cost effective solution?
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:06 PM
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I developed a back gauge system using the legacy Galil cards and Operator Interface software, the cards come up on ebay regularly, although they are still available from Galil.
12v is unusually low for servo's, if you have the drives that go with them you maybe could re-use them.
The Galil has a gearing command that synchronizes the two servo axis.
What was the make of system that was on there?
Al.
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:31 PM
 
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The system was originally Microtrends. They are still around and I could have the whole thing replaced but I want to find out more about my options. I would like to learn more about motion control. Galil stuff will work but their amp will only bend down to 18v. I would have to spend about 3000 to get the Galil stuff to work. Only one of the old driver boards works both ways and the rest of the system had voltage in backwards frying the whole thing.
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:48 PM
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You don't need to use the Galil drives if yours is still OK and operates with the standard 10v analogue control.
I have the software for the operator interface.
I built this one into an existing pendant.
Al
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Old 01-14-2008, 10:14 PM
 
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Wow, exellent! It's even a Chicago 810 like mine! So this is a Galil PCI card in a pc? I will need to get amplifier, drivers that will work with 12v motors. I do have some other motors upstairs in the storage room. Maybe I will check and see what voltage they are tomorrow.
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Old 01-14-2008, 10:40 PM
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This was a DynaBend controller though, used a single motor and glass scale.
I have also used it on Hurco's.
I used a Galil DMC-600 or DMC-1020 ISA cards.
You can pick them up relatively cheap on ebay.
I may be able to set you up if you intend to persue it.
Al.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:54 AM
 
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This sounds very interesting. Do you have maybe some used other parts that I need? I think the main power supply for the motors is still ok and maybe one of the driver boards but the rest is pretty much dust. There is a small pendant - brand new with a single line display and touch pad, but I think it may have also been damaged. It is sure great to meet someone here who has recontrolled a brake press back guage. I see that you are in Canada. Perhaps you could visit www.impax.on.ca and use my toll free number to call the shop.
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:50 AM
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I will check and see what I have, in the mean time I would disconnect the motor mechanically so you can run individually for testing, and if you can apply power to the drives and supply a 9v battery etc into the analogue input they should run full tilt.
Do you have wiring schematic of the drives?
Al.
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:35 PM
 
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I think only one of the FETs works in both directions. I don't have the schematic for the FETs. I was talking with the fellow and he says to repair the other bad drive is about 125. I have to check if the encoders are ok. I will hook up 5v and rotate to see if the lights flash in the small boards near the motors. I have manually moved the motors with a 12v power supply but it will be tough for me to find the +-10v input with my lack of experience but if I examine the boards I might be able to figure it out. I could take some pictures of the existing control and boards. The motors I have upstairs are for sliding doors like at the airport. After some research, I found out they are 120v dc brush type and permanent magnets. The encoder only has one blink per rev. I put the two wires together and found the shaft harder to turn by hand so I expect they will run ok.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:37 PM
 
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Looks like the encoders are ok and motors will turn with 12v. That's about all I have to start with.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:12 PM
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If you are interested in going the same route I did, although the software I have could be used for a template, you would have to be prepared to learn the Galil card commands in order to tweak it and calibrate it etc. Also there will be some wiring changes and hook up details, encoders etc, this pretty much would be the same for any DIY method.
http://www.galilmc.com/support/manuals/man1000.pdf
Al.
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:17 AM
 
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I understand that one of the Galil software packages called WSDK can efficiently tune and diagnose the motors. One of the web seminars shows this. The basic Galil language has about 200 simple commands and appears top be not too hard to learn. I am concerned about how to use the 12v motors. I have been in contact with the fellow that built the original control and he says to send the whole control down and for $2000 he will get it working again. This seems like a lot of money. Could something else be retrofit for less or even the same? I was kind of looking forward to learning how to do this...
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