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Ok, I hooked up my controller( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1
)to my dc motor. But no spin. Break out the meter and I,m getting juice to the controller but not to the motor. Where the power goes into the board and then out to the switches( I have three wires going out to switches L1,L2 and 51 if that means anything) theres juice on L1 and 51 but not L2. I have a reverse/forward switch that has 9 teminals that have wires from everywhere coming and going. The toggle switch is very loose and looks like it has gotten alot of use. So my question is can a bad forward/reverse switch cuase no juice to the motor?
If this was a new unit, I would say the current sense resistor was not fitted, on many of these drives, they come without this resistor and you purchase the resistor according to the current rating of the motor. It just plugs in on the right side of the board, a big wire wound one.
I may have a schematic somewhere, If I can locate it.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
I found the manual online for this controller unit http://www.reliance.com/pdf_elements/d23231/d23231.pdf
d23231.pdf (application/pdf Object) . It doesn't really say which incoming AC goes to which terminal. I had assumed that if the incoming power wire would be the one that goes thru the fuse. Just to see what would happen I reversed them and got no reading on leads L1 and 51 and on L2 the needle would move back( so I figured it would be best to unplug quickly). I decided the first way I had wired is the correct way(it has the power, L2 has the nuetral) so from here to the toggle switch I get a power reading its from the toggle on that I don,t which leads me to suspect the toggle switch is bad but hopefully one of you electro geniuses out there will correct me if i,m wrong......
Did you make sure the necessary jumpers are in place? the thermostat inputs have to be jumpered 32 to 132 and there has to be a jumper 35 to 132 if remote start is not used.
Motor armature A1 & A2.
The AC is straight forward L1 120v & L2 Neutral.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Bummer, the only thing I didn't have jumpered was 35 to 132( no remote start), so I jumper there but still no go. Another question , is a forward/reverse toggle switch a on/on switch?
Normally the forward reverse is a on off on three position sw, the schematics show the hook up for it on Page 5-11. Did you try jumpering 38 to 35 to try the external start?
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
Still no go, I thought the forward/reverse was a three position switch, at first I could only get it to go into forward and nuetral but with a little more effort I got it to switch in reverse, the toggle feels really loose and I also seen in the trouble shooting section that it can be a cause for the motor not to spin, so for now I,m gonna assume its the toggle switch, I,ll order a new one from Reliance in the morning. Thanx for your help Al ( I had my fingers crossed)...
A forward / reverse switch has to switch the windings on a DC motor to change the direction.....does that help....
Ok, I,ve done some more poking around and here,s what I got. Ok still no power out at all, all jumpers set correctly and it looks like maybe the controller is shot. Which now maybe while I,m thinking of changing out the forward/reverse switch I might as well change the start/stop switch. This controller is nearly 12 years old so it possible that these switches are bad
Last edited by ZipSnipe; 06-02-2006 at 01:52 PM.
Ok is possible that the motor will not work with this controller? To run at 1.5hp it(the manual) says I need to hook up 220(I only have 120 going to it now) also the motor is 11.6 amps the highest 115v amp setting is 10 and if I were to settup 220 v the manual says to set the jumper to 7.5 amps. Getting more confused the deeper I get into it. I,m also thinking for as much as an electronics place would charge me to check all of this out I could just get a smaller dc motor like a 1/2hp dc one that has all the specs that seem to match this controller. Or then again the switches could be bad but I really can,t tell......SOS,,, MAYDAY.....HEEEELLPPPP.....
Ok now if I set the jumpers to different amp settings(like 2.5,7.5 and 15 but no juice on 10 amps) I,m getting juice out to the motor but still no spin. Uummm...Oh yeah I got an email back from Reliance, are you guys ready for this? They want $374.00 for a toggle switch!!! The controller brand new was around $500. Bend me over will ya!!!
You should be able to check the switch it is a simple change over switch, the diagram even shows what is on & off, if you notice there is the DC feed comming in and then is goes out to the armature, a polarity which is decided by the rev switch.Originally Posted by ZipSnipe
If you have a DC voltage present on the DC motor and it is not turning, there seems to be something wrong there, try the motor on a straight DC source such as an automotive battery and check it for rotation.
Also hook up a 100w 120v lamp across the DC instead of the motor and see if it lights. You may be going in to current limit, although it should work on the low rpm setting.
I believe there is jumpers for 120/240?
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.
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