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#1
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| Repietitive motion and I do not get along at all. I have a progressive disability that makes some chores very dificult for me. While making my first ever PCBs I had a heck of a time removing the ironed on lazer based transfer. I tried the recommended lacqure thinner and acetone to no avail. The plastic laughed at them. Elbow grease and scotch-brite worked, but worked slowly. As an avid gearhead, I rebuild carburators every once in awhile. The only good way to clean a carb is disassembly and soaking in carb cleaner. The directions on the carb cleaner warn about soaking plastic. I had a can of Gunk Hydroseal(tm) out in the garage and decided to give it a go. One and a half hours of soaking later I was able to scour the plastic off with a plastic scouring pad. The amount of effort was negligable, and the board came out looking great. The phenolic had no deterioration, and the board is going together pretty well. Hydroseal(tm) is a new formula and doeesn't use triethlyne. It is biodegradable and environmentaly friendly. I don't know if deplastisizing a pcb after etching is worth the expense for a gallon can, but if you have it on hand, use it. It makes a chore a nonevent. No, Gumout carb cleaner isn't the same thing. Not affiliated withn eithger, just thought I'd pass a way to end a chore along for those that can use it. |
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#2
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| Hi MrWild, Hmmm, Acetone wouldn't remove the toner? That is strange, as that is all I use here and the acetone instantly disolves the toner and the only wiping I have to do is to wipe away the acetone & toner. By chance, what laser printer and transfer paper are you using that is that difficult to remove? Chris |
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#3
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| Funny! That is exactly what I used! Didn't have any laquer thinner handy, first I grabbed for brake cleaner (which also worked extremely well) but I only had a few squirts left, so on to the carburetor cleaner. Works great!
__________________ If you try to make everything idiot proof, someone will just breed a better idiot! |
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#4
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| I found that the best solvent is PolyClens paint remover. It's cheap and has an indefinite shelf life. A few drops will dissolve the toner instantly, no soaking needed. The residue can be cleaned with soap and water. |
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#6
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| To get toner off of my hands and tools, I used spray degreasers with Trichloroethane (1:1:1) or Methylchloroform in them. Worked great for me but some claimed they could taste it. The stuff will go right thru your skin, nasty stuff but it got the job done.
__________________ If it's not nailed down, it's mine. If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down. |
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#7
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| Trichlor is a nasty carcinogen. There must be different plastic compositions used in different laser printers. The stuff I've been fighting with is used in the Exxon copiers at Office Depot. I'd love to meet an acetone soluable toner. |
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