Cant make sense of this light stack wiring

[Skiroy]

If you go to the 22 page and the #2 diagram. I need for just 1 red light(I dont have the others) to flash and the alarm 1 to go continuously. Can someone break this down as how to wire it form a +24VDC and -24VDC persepective?

[neilw20]

More information?
Page 22 of what? #22?
Do you have specs on the lamp?

[Skiroy]

Originally Posted by neilw20 More information? Page 22 of what? #22? Do you have specs on the lamp?

Sorry I thought the file attached. Here it is as a link on the second page. IT is the SEFB-D AC/DC 12/24V version.

http://www.clickautomation.com/PDF/c...20Complete.pdf

[Skiroy]

bump

[doorknob]

Can you confirm that you have the model SEFB-102D light stack?

My interpretation is as follows:

Connect the +24 volt power supply terminal through a fuse to the Yellow wire.

Connect the minus terminal of the 24-volt supply to the Gray wire.

If you want to flash a Red lamp, connect the Brown wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Red wire.

If you want to turn on alarm 1, connect the Purple wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Gray wire.

[Skiroy]

Originally Posted by doorknob Can you confirm that you have the model SEFB-102D light stack? My interpretation is as follows: Connect the +24 volt power supply terminal through a fuse to the Yellow wire. Connect the minus terminal of the 24-volt supply to the Gray wire. If you want to flash a Red lamp, connect the Brown wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Red wire. If you want to turn on alarm 1, connect the Purple wire (through a switch or a transistor or a relay contact) to the Gray wire.

Well on my light stack it only says SEFB-D but I know its the 24V AC/DC version with alarm (Continuous light or flashing, with Buzzer)

The only thing I want to make sure about is in the manual that comes with my light stack the brown and yellow wires have "COM" on them. Your saying to wire them to +24VDC but doesnt COM indicate -24VDC?

[doorknob]

I can only go by the manual pages that you linked above, which show +24VDC going to the Yellow wire (in the NPN transistor connection diagram at the upper right). That same hookup should work with relay contacts or switches instead of NPN transistors.

If you were using PNP transistors to switch the light and alarm, then the recommended connection would be different.

The Brown wire is shown as having to be connected to the Red wire in order to flash the red light. I did not suggest connecting the Brown wire to +24VDC.

[Skiroy]

Please excuse my ignorance but the wire diagram doesnt state that the wires are + or -. The transistor diagrams to the right do, but from what I see it says that the 24VDC version could be PNP or NPN. How do I know which one it is?

[doorknob]

My interpretation is that those transistor wiring diagrams are just guidance for how to wire up transistors to switch the LEDs and alarms (if you want to use transistors instead of switches or relay contacts to do the switching).

The transistors are not included with the light stick. I believe that the polarity shown for NPN is the way to go even if you are simply using switches or relay contacts to do the switching.

Feel free to get a second opinion from someone else if you have any doubts, though.

[Skiroy]

Originally Posted by doorknob My interpretation is that those transistor wiring diagrams are just guidance for how to wire up transistors to switch the LEDs and alarms (if you want to use transistors instead of switches or relay contacts to do the switching). The transistors are not included with the light stick. I believe that the polarity shown for NPN is the way to go even if you are simply using switches or relay contacts to do the switching. Feel free to get a second opinion from someone else if you have any doubts, though.

Oh so if Im using a timer relay then ignore the transistor diagrams? Okay

Does COM indicate neg voltage or can in mean Pos or neg? I know it doesnt say COM on the Yellow and Brown wires on this diagram but my manual does. Does it matter if you fuse the neg connection vs the positive?

I only ask because my diagram has the yellow wire fused but says COM, and the gray wire says just gray?

[doorknob]

The documentation that you have provided is ambiguous at best, and so I am forced to make some guesses. But my guess (explained below) is that it may actually not make any difference which way you hook it up(!).

Judging by the transistor switch connection diagrams, if I had to guess it would be that maybe each LED module either has a pair of LEDs wired back to back, or else has some other circuit arrangement (such as a diode bridge rectifier) to make the operation of the light insensitive to the polarity of the power supply. Supposedly some LED lamps have such circuitry already built in. Otherwise I do not understand how you could wire it up in the way that they have shown for both NPN and PNP transistors.

So it may actually be OK to hook it up either way. I would still prefer to hook it up as shown in the NPN transistor switching configuration (because that way I don't need to twist my brain into contortions).

As for which lead to put the fuse in, typically I would put the fuse inline with the positive lead. Oftentimes the negative lead is connected directly to an earth ground, and in that configuration having the fuse in the positive lead will permit the fuse to blow if there is a short circuit from the positive lead to ground. I don't think that you should be concerned about blowing the fuse for normal operation, because you are dealing with very small operating currents.

But if you kept both power supply terminals isolated from earth ground, then I suppose that you could put the fuse in the negative line (as is shown in the PNP connection diagram).

I hope that makes some sense.

[Skiroy]

Originally Posted by doorknob The documentation that you have provided is ambiguous at best, and so I am forced to make some guesses. But my guess (explained below) is that it may actually not make any difference which way you hook it up(!). Judging by the transistor switch connection diagrams, if I had to guess it would be that maybe each LED module either has a pair of LEDs wired back to back, or else has some other circuit arrangement (such as a diode bridge rectifier) to make the operation of the light insensitive to the polarity of the power supply. Supposedly some LED lamps have such circuitry already built in. Otherwise I do not understand how you could wire it up in the way that they have shown for both NPN and PNP transistors. So it may actually be OK to hook it up either way. I would still prefer to hook it up as shown in the NPN transistor switching configuration (because that way I don't need to twist my brain into contortions). As for which lead to put the fuse in, typically I would put the fuse inline with the positive lead. Oftentimes the negative lead is connected directly to an earth ground, and in that configuration having the fuse in the positive lead will permit the fuse to blow if there is a short circuit from the positive lead to ground. I don't think that you should be concerned about blowing the fuse for normal operation, because you are dealing with very small operating currents. But if you kept both power supply terminals isolated from earth ground, then I suppose that you could put the fuse in the negative line (as is shown in the PNP connection diagram). I hope that makes some sense.

I hate when these companies give you a manual with 6 different schematics for 6 different models that have similar model number configurations, inorder to save money. This is so freaking confusing. I guess Im going to just keep myself from going insane or messing something up and just have the red light come on continuously. I mean even if I can figure out how to wire it right, it still sounds like I have to switch off more than one wire to get the flashing red LED and the Buzzer to come on and off, since they seem to not share the same wires. Let me just ask you this last question and Im over it.

Lets say I have just this light stack and a mechanical not an PLC but a regular relay timer with only one N.O. contact. When the timer switches on after 10secs I want the Red LED to start flashing and the Buzzer 1 to come on. What wire or wires that are of the same polarity (that can be connected together) can be wired to the N.O. contact on the timer so that when the timer is deenergized, the light stack and buzzer goes off?