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#1
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Can someone please help me? I'm trying to wire my new motor to my new switch for my lathe. The lathe runs forward off reverse. Off was always center on old turn style switch. The lathe is from Harbor Freight. SKU# 31316, Motor type YCYS7144A, Specs: 550W, 110V, 8.8A, 1700 RPM, 60 Hz, IP44, 300uF, 35uF, E, S1. I have a single phase AC induction motor which has 4 terminals to connect wires to. This motor is a direct replacement from Harbor Freight. Under this terminal block there are: 2 - White wires going to terminal Z2 (Please note the 1 white wire looks yellow but is white.) 1 - Black wire goes to terminal U2 1 - Red wire goes to terminal U1 1 - Green wire goes to terminal Z1 NOTE: Z2 & U2 have a metal bar going across (you can see in the picture) U1 & Z1 also have this metal bar going across. I need to wire this motor to a DPDT toggle switch rated 20A 250v. The toggle switch has 6 terminals. The 2 terminals in the middle are common. I was told that by the electric store I bought it from. Below is what I mapped so far. |
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#2
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| I did wire black (hot) & white (neutral) to the center DPDT switch & I first connected Z2 (I connected to neutral side) & Z1 (I connected to hot side) on DPDT switch & the motor ran clockwise. I then reversed the leads but the motor still ran clockwise. I did the same with the U1 & U2 leads & it did the exact same thing. Both times you can hear the switch in the motor kick in. |
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#3
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| You need to reverse either the start winding ends, or the run winding ends to reverse direction, the run winding is connected directly across the L & N, the Start winding has the Cap, switch, start winding all three in series across the L & N. It is often easier to reverse the run winding WRT to the start series string. If you have two caps, one is start and one is left in for run usually. Al.
__________________ CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Machine Design. “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.” Albert E. |
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#4
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Hey Al thanks for jumping in! What is L & N? Also WRT? Sorry if it a dumb question but I came so far I don't wanna burn it up. OH! it is a 2 cap motor. How do I find the polarity of the windings? So I'm sure to connect the right motor wires to the hot side & the neutral side. I know Z2 & Z1 go together & U1 & U2 go together. I connected them separately to the switch & they both ran in the same direction inspite of which way I connected either pair Z2 neutral - Z1 hot or U1 neutral & U2 hot. I take it Z2 & Z1 are the start winding because both caps are wired into Z2. Someone said I'd need to run a jumper from the lower neutral to the upper neutral on the neutral side of the DPDT switch. Is that correct? Last edited by TheButcher69; 12-29-2010 at 01:34 AM. |
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#5
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| Here's a diagram of how I connected the wires from the motor to the DPDT. NOTE: I reversed the bottom 2 both ways & the motor still turns counter clock wise no matter what. I don't see the purpose of both winding in this motor because connecting Z2, Z1 & U1, U2 start the motor the same way & I can hear the switch inside kicking in. I just remembered there are metal tabs across the top of the terminals connecting Z2 & U2 & the same for U1 & Z1. My old motor didn't have these. Could this be preventing the reverse direction? ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us Last edited by TheButcher69; 12-29-2010 at 01:35 AM. |
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#6
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| Hi I think you need a 3 pole version of your switch on the motor , one winding is Z1 to Z2 , the second U1 to U2 you need to apply the power the same way to one of the windings and be able to reverse the other the links on the motor terminals are intended to be U1 + Z1 and Z2 +U2 or for reverse Z2 + U1 and U2 + Z1 live to U1 via the switch and neutral to U2 with a 3 pole switch , one pole switching the live to the motor the next two poles connect U1 to Z1 and U2 to Z2 or for reverse U1 to Z2 and U2 to Z1 hope this helps ( I'll have to find out how to add pictures !) Last edited by john_100; 12-29-2010 at 06:49 AM. Reason: add diagram |
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#7
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Thanks John! I got it work some what with what I have but here's where I'm stuck. What am I doing wrong here? I put the switch in the upward position the motor turns counter clock wise. I put the switch in the downward position it turns clock wise. I put the switch in the center (which is suppose to be off) the motor hums but doesn't turn. The center poles are common. ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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#8
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| Looks to me like you may be using a two pole switch instead of a 3 pole as John is showing? Al.
__________________ CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Machine Design. “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.” Albert E. |
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#9
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| Hi , with just a two pole switch you are not switching off the power to the coil Z1 - Z2 ( thats why you need the extra pole to the switch in my diagram ) just an on off switch in the supply to the circuit you have now ,will work but a 3 pole double throw, centre off switch will be easier to use John ps always stop before reversing direction the motor will not be designed to change direction while running Last edited by john_100; 12-29-2010 at 05:19 PM. Reason: add ps note |
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#11
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| Hey John I was thinking I would be better off using this DPDT switch & getting another switch for the power for safety reasons since toggles are so easily turn on. But would I need a simple on/off switch 2 terminals SPST or a SPDT 3 terminals? I'm studying your diagram but my brain is fried after 3 days trying to learn this stuff. Ok I think I would need just a SPST switch rated for my amps & volts or equal to the original switch that was in it. Would this diagram be the correct way to wire it? ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us Last edited by TheButcher69; 12-29-2010 at 11:42 PM. |
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#12
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| a single pole on off switch across terminals 1C and COM3 is all you need but for added safety how about a " no volt release switch " if you lost power to the lathe while its running , it will stop it restarting when the power is restored unless you pushed the start button again ! basically its a combined switch and relay when you push the green button the solenoid holds the switch on while the mains supply is available with the version with the extra terminal A1 ,you can add normally closed emergency stop switches and / or interlock switches the info is for one from RS Components , but I think the likes of Little Machine Shop has one using the no volt switch you would connect the switched Neutral to COM1 and U2 and the switched Live (Hot) to COM2 and U1 in your last diagram Last edited by john_100; 12-30-2010 at 03:40 PM. |
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