Motor wiring again (sorry Al)

[kong]

Here's another motor to replace the one I was trying to wire up before - still had no torque, so I now have a replacement which I am stuck on!
This is a Brook Gryphon, probably 30 years old, but it does run. I can hook up two terminals, and it runs fine. Problem is, I have a reversing switch with Live and neutral, and also two other cables for switching direction. So....where to start? The location of the current wires seems odd, perhaps this is just a convienient way of getting it to run from one pair of inputs? I dunno, but I am a little nervous about hooking it up, so any advice would be helpful first! Thanks, Jason. Oh yeah, the two thick black cables coming out go to the capacitor.

[Al_The_Man]

Originally Posted by kong perhaps this is just a convienient way of getting it to run from one pair of inputs?

Your probabally right there, The usual way is to bring the start windings out so that they can be reversed with respect to the run windings. Or if you bring out the two total series ends, of the cap, switch and start winding, the these two ends can be reversed before paralleling with the run winding.
Also the configuration of the switch contacts have to be known.
BTW if that motor is 30yrs old, I would check the bearings and the switch, it would save grief later.
Al.

[kong]

Ok Al, somehow I knew you would say that, just need to get my confidence up here!
So, I have brought out 2 pairs of wires, I have located the start and run windings, and also havethe 2 capacitor leads. I should have my permanent live and neutral hooked to the run winding, and then the capacitor and start windings in series to the switched pair of inputs right? I will go wire this up, and switch on once you give me the nod!
The only thing I am not 100% on is the cap since is currently in a strange config!

[ViperTX]

Can we talk using terminal references.....like Z1 and Z2 are the run windings. If you got it to run the way you have it wired, I'm wondering if the centrifical switch is working....it should remove the cap from the motor once the motor reaches a certain speed....thoughts??

[kong]

I still don't get it, the two red leads are the run windings (Highest resistance), the two blacks are start windings. So is the switch wired up internaly between the two start leads? And if this is so, there is nowhere to switch off the capacitor so I guess I wouldhook it up across the inputs for the start windings, but it would stay on all the time.

[kong]

Missed that Viper - yeah Z1 and Z2 are the run windings, but in the picture above there is a copper jumper between the two sets of leads so I havebeen able to run the motor with just one pair of input cables.

[ViperTX]

The switch is centrifical...it's internal to the motor (at least I hope it is....you should be able to hear it click on and off)....did you notice that Z2 and A2 are bussed together?

[ViperTX]

I suspect that it's not reversible.

[kong]

I am understanding it now, the jumper just provides the live feed to the series linked start winding and cap, the other end of the cap is the neutral end. So all I have to do is tie one end of the cap, and one end of the start winding, with the other ends on the connector block going to my switched inputs, and it should all work with the switch cutting off these after startup. - providing I remove the jumper first!

[Al_The_Man]

The switch is wired internally in SERIES with the start winding, so you only see two leads coming out , these are the two you reverse, the cap is wired in series with these two.
Like I say, you can either just reverse the two coming from the startW/Switch or the whole series string that includes the cap.
What do you mean exactly by stange config?
Al.

[Al_The_Man]

If it does not have a switch, it is a capacitor start, capacitor run where the start windings/cap are in all the time.
Al.

[kong]

Strange because I don't know much about it!
The penny has dropped as they say, and I now understand the wiring. I will go do it and let you know, thanks guys!