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#1
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i am fairly new to the cad/cam world and have a few questions if somebody wouldn't mind helping out. i have been seeing alot of photo to engraving articles out there lately. i understand that the photo will have to be scanned into some type of software and then converted to g-code eventually. my question is this: what software, or packages are necessary to perform this operation? how does this work, as in: scan to what type of file, convert to what type of file and then .... eventually load and run on a cnc machine? there seems to be, in my mind anyway, a large cloud that the photo goes into and the engraving pops out the other side. could someone put this in laymans terms, kind of an engraving for dummies format? thanks for the help. mark |
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#2
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| If the photo is in jpg or bmp format, you can get g-code from Mach2/3, http://www.artofcnc.ca or use something like MeshCAM, http://www.grzsoftware.com
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#3
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| Ive actually been meaning to ask a similar question. I know there are programs to make this happen but I am curious as to how they determine what is 3d and what is flat from the photo??? Is this something that the user has to determine and enter values or is it something better like the software determines from the shadows how far away and what the curvature is??? (doubtfull but hopefull)
__________________ thanks Michael T. "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!" |
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#4
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| Usually you convert the photo to grayscale, and the depth is determined by the shades of gray, with black usually being the deepest. Depending on the software, you may be able to skip the grayscale conversion. For best results, the photo's may need to be edited a bit.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#5
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| step #1 scan picture around 300 dpi with scanner. Step #2 save scan as jpg or bmp Step #3 edit picture as needed like removing background, lightning, removing red eye etc Step #4 convert jpg to a grey 8 bit pgm file using pic to pic a free program Step #5 get imagecarve open the pgm and sellect the size and depth of cut usually .030 works beautiful. Step #6 click the convert button in imagecarve Step #7 run g-code Like I say if anyone needs help with imagecarve I will be glad to help you achieve results you are looking for! Proof is in the pudding look at some of my pictures I have carved. |
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#7
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There are three basic approaches to engraving images. 1. Draw (engrave) outlines or contour lines from the image. This is sort of like tracing the things in the picture to produce a line drawing, and then running an engraving bit along those lines. VS3D can do automatic tracing (contouring) by using the image brightness levels as if they were Z heights in a topographic model. I'm not sure if other programs do that. 2. Draw (engrave) dots or pixels from the image. For example, take a flat piece of aluminum with a black anodized coating. Use a pogo-stick ("peck") type of tool path with a V-bit. The depth of each "peck" is determined by the brightness of the image at that point. Each peck is spaced far enough from the other pecks such that, at least, a small amount of black remains in between. The result is that brighter pixels in the image come out as larger (brighter) dots in the engraved piece. Because a wide V-bit is used, and the depth is determined by the pixel brightness, the amount of exposed bright aluminum is larger for bright pixels. So what you end up with is what looks like (from a distance) a grainy B&W photo. VS3D can do this. I'm not sure about other programs. 3. Carve a continuous surface based upon the image brightness levels. This is what is done in the VS3D Image Embossing/Carving tutorial: http://www.designscomputed.com/vs3d/...mg_emboss.html This technique is what most of the "Image Engraving" software programs do. Where VS3D surpasses the other programs is that VS3D has sculpting tools to modify the surface. For example, suppose you wanted to carve a picture of someone in relief, like the face on a coin. You start out with a digital photograph of the person and map image brightness to surface height. At this point, the only thing many other software programs can do is output the G-Code or whatever to cut it. But suppose the person had dark-colored hair. Because the surface comes from image brightness, their eyebrows will be sunken deep into their forehead. VS3D has the sculpting tools to allow the eyebrow areas to be lifted and blended to make the surface look better. Yes, you could use PhotoShop or whatever to "lighten" up the eyebrows before importing the image. But it can be hard to predict if the results, when converted to a relief surface, would look good or not. In VS3D, you do the sculpting on the surface, so you always see what the true 3D surface really looks like. PS: Please excuse the "hype" - I developed the VS3D software, so naturally I'm a bit biased
__________________ Daniel Carr - President, Designs Computed, LLC |
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#10
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step-over spacing - 0.025" XY jog rate - 3"/sec. Z jog rate - 2"/sec. XY feed rate - 2"/sec. Z plunge rate - 1"/sec. material - MDF board Total time for the first pass was about 14 minutes. The second pass was less than that because it cut in alternating directions (much less jogging than the first pass). This was basically the first attempt at this piece, and the chosen speeds were probably slower than optimal.
__________________ Daniel Carr - President, Designs Computed, LLC |
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#12
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__________________ Daniel Carr - President, Designs Computed, LLC |
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