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Thread: limitations to platic extruding

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    limitations to platic extruding

    Im thinking very seriously about getting a Makerbot. I am a machinist and have 20+ years experience with programming and machining so i understand how this all works but i have a couple questions.

    I dont like the spaghetti look of the parts that i see that have been printed. If you print within the machines minimum layer of around .001" height on Z axis can you get a smoother finish on a side wall or a better blend from layer to layer on an angle or radiused side? I understand this would drasticly lengthen the print time but im looking for accuracy. Time isnt that important. Or is the spaghetti appearance just the way it is on plastic extruders?

    Also is it possible to use your own CAD/CAM software to generate the G-code and communicate with the Makerbot? It would be nice to be able to tweak the post processor and use something that i am familiar with.


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    1st I have just jumped into the world of 3d printing. I started 3 months ago and built a reprap from scratch. I am now acquiring parts for a hybrid version of a whiteant for experimentation. Your question would be accurately answered on this forum: RepRap Forums. I am keeping a blog and have good examples of some things I have printed. You can reach it at: 3d Printed Sculpture I hope this helps.


  3. #3
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    Can you print really thin? Yes! But results may not be what you expect: Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing: Slic3r is Nicer - Part 3 - How low can you go?.

    As for using your own GCode in general, absolutely. I'm uing Mach3 to run my steppers, and have hand-edited many models. With the makerbot specifically? Not sure. (I'm using the SeeMeCNC H1)

    Cheers,
    Jeremy


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