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    Default Another Newbie

    Hi all. I've been lurking here for some time while rebuilding an older used and abused Techno Isel 40 x 49 inch router with a Porter Cable 31/4 hp spindle. Finally the router is working correctly and I am able to cut 2 and 2 1/2 D projects very successfully. My main source of consternation is in the 3D world. In my experiments I have been using a v-bit with a .009 stepover at 20 ipm with a 16 ipm plunge rate. Since the router came with a variac instead of the variable speed switch i have been setting the speed to ear which seems to work out fine. Needless to say making anything is a time consuming ordeal. I have aquired some .125 four flute ballnosed bits and some two flute .093 bits and I was wondering where to start out determining feed and plunge rates for cutting old growth maple. Thank You.

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    This may help; it may not.
    For my general 3-D work, I use a .125" ball end mill (2 flute), with a stepover of 0.010" (about 8% bit dia). Because the stepover is so small, I will let it cut that way up to 1/2" deep. The cutter has flutes up to 1/2", so I might as well use them and not waste time using a larger roughing bit when I do not need to.
    Most of the wood that I cut is Ash, which I believe to be harder than most maple.

    I am using a PC 892 router @ 23,000 rpm, and usually cutting at 140 IPM with this setup.



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    I am new to this as well, and have been testing the results of a .25" ball nose bit at .04 stepover in oak at 125ipm. The finished product cuts great but has a lot of ridges that have to be sanded out (time consuming). I have also been testing a .25" flat flute that seems to give me better results. I have noticed that most people in the forum seem to use the ball nose for 3D. How do you prevent the ridges??



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    Wow it sure will be slow at those speeds. I use a 30 degree V-cutter with a ..040 flat. Running 40% step over and 125 IPM spindle speed 12000. My 1/8" ball 10% stepover and again 125 IPM 12000 RPM. I use to run at 15000 RPM but was slightly burning the wood and bit would turn black.



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    Quote Originally Posted by becikeja View Post
    I have noticed that most people in the forum seem to use the ball nose for 3D. How do you prevent the ridges??
    If you don't need the detail, use a larger diameter bit. I cut large curved counter edge mouldings with a 1-1/4" diameter bit, with about .03 stepover, and around 300ipm. Virtually no sanding needed. If you need to use the smaller tool for detail, you need to use a smaller stepover.

    Gerry

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    Thanks for all the good feedback. My main question is with the plunge setting should it equal the the x/y speed as well or is there a different formula?

    Thanks

    Sandy



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    I alway plunge at 50 - 80 % , so if my feed is 125 IPM then my plunge will be 50 - IPM. Remember this is for a ball or v-cutters. for flat endmill I drop it even more.



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