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    Registered Arbo's Avatar
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    I generally like natural wood as well... but the pine I've seen with just clear on it... isn't a 'pretty' wood...

    Wood neophyte.


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    picked up some boards of cherry and walnut and ash yesterday, will have to see if I can get to a friends fathers workshop to use his plainer and joiner..

    Wood neophyte.


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    I hope to get a chance to visit my two usual wood suppliers on Saturday. I have a 4 hour meeting to attend in Raleigh and will try to go by Klingspor Woodworking Shop and Woodcraft to see what I can find to add to my collection as well.

    The sub-floor (3/4" particle board) in my guest bathroom got soaked due to a water leak at the tank and it wasn't discovered for a while. I spent the day rebuilding that and it's only half finished. I needed a 5" hole in the replacement 3/4" plywood that will replace the wet particle board. It was easy to do on the CNC machine, and saved me a 20 mile round trip into town to find a 5" hole saw that would be ridiculously expensive - even if I can find one. Making a cut file and cutting the hole took less time than just driving to Lowes.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    I was making a sign yesterday for someone, attempted it in pine to check the file, made a couple of changes to it and then placed the good maple blank on the table. It was cutting well and after 2.5hours I decided to goto bed and finish in the morning. Good thing I still have a table left. When I got the shop this morning, I found that the router had worked it's way all the way through the 3/4" blank and most of the way through my first layer of MDF on the table. pretty nice picture on the table though Ate my dust brush and my mdf dust shoe. I'm assuming my brush is somewhere between the table and the dust collector or in the bag. What a mess..

    Colten Edwards [URL="http://www.cncsigns.ca"]http://www.cncsigns.ca[/URL]


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    Holy crap, you figure out how that happened?

    I cut off small pieces of the walnut, cherry and ash, and of course used some red oak scraps and such, so I could make little 'samples' of what the clear coated wood looks like for my own memory and reference. I need to get off my backside and go over to a friends parents with my wood, I need to plane it down a bit, and run it through the jointer so I can glue them together to make a wider piece for use.

    Wood neophyte.


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    Quote Originally Posted by cd_edwards View Post
    I was making a sign yesterday for someone, attempted it in pine to check the file, made a couple of changes to it and then placed the good maple blank on the table. It was cutting well and after 2.5hours I decided to goto bed and finish in the morning. Good thing I still have a table left. When I got the shop this morning, I found that the router had worked it's way all the way through the 3/4" blank and most of the way through my first layer of MDF on the table. pretty nice picture on the table though Ate my dust brush and my mdf dust shoe. I'm assuming my brush is somewhere between the table and the dust collector or in the bag. What a mess..
    I feel for you colten, I had a simular thing happen to me once. It dug in so bad that I had to replace the spoil board.

    Chuck



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    Sounds like the router bit worked its way outward in the collet. Been there, done that one.

    I didn't make it to Klingspor Woodworking Shop after the meeting on Saturday. I did go to Woodcraft and picked up some glue, a spare Whiteside #1550 V-bit, and a piece of what is labeled "ribboned sapele" that is 7' long by 9-5/8" wide by 1" thick for my collection.

    It looks a lot like mahogany in some respects, and is in the same family as mahogany. It's used in making musical instruments. This piece may get used for a Paradise box if I scale it down just enough to fit this board.

    Tried to post photos of the sapele but get Internal Server Errors message. Tried again as an edit to the post, but no luck.

    Update: Photos are finally attached.

    Last edited by CarveOne; 12-04-2012 at 09:38 AM.
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    Member cd_edwards's Avatar
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    Well I figured out part of my problem. After 6 hours of routing I stopped the current job which was a 10x16 inch 3d sign. It was only half finished :/ Anyways, it turns out that when I made the g-code on the house machine it was fine. When I transfered it out to the garage and re-made the g-code somehow, the 1/4" spiral was replaced with a 3/16" dia ball nose. So my roughing 3d cut was huge. almost 600000 lines. Looked nice though . Once I discovered that, and made that "slight" change in Aspire, let's just say the gcode went from 800k+ lines down to 75k lines. As for taking out my spoil board, I lost Z and looks like some X as well. I believe it was todo with my increasing the feedrate to 150% and then walking away. Unfortunately I'm not sure which I lost first so I really can't make any axis changes. Loosing some X could have caused some Z loss due to making huge cuts at a relatively low speed of 10k.

    Colten Edwards [URL="http://www.cncsigns.ca"]http://www.cncsigns.ca[/URL]


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    Member ger21's Avatar
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    You're lucky it didn't start a fire. I've seen posts from fires starting that way.

    Gerry

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    Nice looking piece of wood c1.

    I have only seen my machine 'screw up' so bad it had the bit spinning in MDF in one spot and started to smoke up. That was a long time ago before I knew what I was doing. Though it could be argued I still don't know what I'm doing.

    I stopped by a local shop, took my walnut and cherry and had them put good glue edges on them. They were very nice and friendly... and have some real nice equipment. They also stock all sorts of wood and will sell it, if they don't have it, they will add it to their next order. Very nice.

    The owner actually recommended knotty alder as the least expensive wood he can get to fiddle and make 'test' projects with. And of course pointed out alder can pretty much be finished to look like 'anything', or pretty close. I'll need to pick some up to play with finishes. He reguarly has trash cans full of cut offs and different scraps which he said 'if you drive by and see it out, you can take it all if you want'.. some of his 'scrap' is better than my main wood.

    Wood neophyte.


  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    Nice looking piece of wood c1.

    I have only seen my machine 'screw up' so bad it had the bit spinning in MDF in one spot and started to smoke up. That was a long time ago before I knew what I was doing. Though it could be argued I still don't know what I'm doing.

    I stopped by a local shop, took my walnut and cherry and had them put good glue edges on them. They were very nice and friendly... and have some real nice equipment. They also stock all sorts of wood and will sell it, if they don't have it, they will add it to their next order. Very nice.

    The owner actually recommended knotty alder as the least expensive wood he can get to fiddle and make 'test' projects with. And of course pointed out alder can pretty much be finished to look like 'anything', or pretty close. I'll need to pick some up to play with finishes. He reguarly has trash cans full of cut offs and different scraps which he said 'if you drive by and see it out, you can take it all if you want'.. some of his 'scrap' is better than my main wood.
    Thanks Arbo,

    I've never seen alder for sale anywhere I've been to buy wood.

    There are some cabinet making businesses around here but I don't know any of the owners. I should introduce myself sometime to see what kind of equipment they use and maybe offer to add some CNC detailing for their work. I am working on a 2' x 3' x 1-1/2" 3D Celtic knot motif residential sign that could use sanding on a wide belt thickness sander after I glue up the red oak boards. My DIY face sander will not do a good enough job of it on something this big. An orbital sander is all I have and it will have to do.

    I have a small Delta table top 6" jointer that I will use to dress the glue edges of the boards. The small Delta I have now needs to be replaced with something like a Grizzly G0452Z 6" cast iron jointer next year that has a longer infeed and outfeed table with a stiffer fence. It has been fine for smaller pieces in the past and it's not something I have needed very often.

    My plan is to joint the edges of the 1" x 12" boards for gluing so that the glue joints are overlapped by a few inches front layer to back layer in hopes of preventing serious warping with age.

    I'll post a simulation image of the sign in my build log if I get permission. The design was given to me by the person that will get the sign. It isn't all that fancy but it looks nice enough.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    I was just on the grizzly website earlier...

    I hope they give you permission, would be cool to see what the design is and how it comes out.

    I glued up some cherry for a plaque for my mom, am cutting three small lithos for a paying customer, seems I might get a few more to do. Glued up some 'select' pine for another box as a gift, gonna do the conditioner (or whatever you call it) and try to get a good even stain on it. Modified the heck out of the victorian house plaque to resemble a brother-in-laws house, hope to get that in the line to cut soon as well, trying to figure out which wood to use.

    I find myself looking at signs when I drive down the road wondering how I'd approach it and pull it off, if I could at all.

    Also was looking at some of those metalized finishings you can patina... a 'kit' of all the coverings with patina and primer and such is only about 165 bucks, so might get that. Looks like you can pull off some pretty cool stuff with it.

    Wood neophyte.


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    My plan is to joint the edges of the 1" x 12" boards for gluing so that the glue joints are overlapped by a few inches front layer to back layer in hopes of preventing serious warping with age.
    What I would do is cut the 1x12's into four ±3" pieces. Then, glue up the 3" pieces into 1-1/2"x3" pieces. Then, joint those edges, and glue them up into your slab.
    Keep the parts in order when you cut them, and glue them back together in the same order. With a carving, you won't even notice that you cut the boards apart. And you'll have a much easier glue up, although it will take a bit longer, as there will be more joints.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
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    Mach3 2010 Screenset
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    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    We use a lot of knotty alder at work. It routes very nicely, but tears out badly on the jointer and planer. Sharp knives are a must.

    As for Grizzly, here's my next big purchase, probably in a year or two.
    G0490X 8" Jointer w/ Spiral Cutterhead

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
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    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    We use a lot of knotty alder at work. It routes very nicely, but tears out badly on the jointer and planer. Sharp knives are a must.

    As for Grizzly, here's my next big purchase, probably in a year or two.
    G0490X 8" Jointer w/ Spiral Cutterhead
    Nice.

    The local shop I went to has one of those 7500 buck straight edge rip saws (or whatever it's called)... though theirs is not a grizzly. Impressive machine, loads of money.

    Cut one of the small (4x3") lithos of the three ordered. Screwed up switching between the carving vbit I used and the cutout bit... I set the zero 'by hand' to start, it seems that once you do that, if you hit a tool change, it goes through the motions, touches down on the set in plate, but screws up the z big time. Snapped a 1/16 em and it drove down on the litho. you can see it on the top left of the litho. Think I'm getting pretty good detail, but it does take a bit under 2 hours to cut.

    Wood neophyte.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    I was just on the grizzly website earlier...

    I hope they give you permission, would be cool to see what the design is and how it comes out.

    I glued up some cherry for a plaque for my mom, am cutting three small lithos for a paying customer, seems I might get a few more to do. Glued up some 'select' pine for another box as a gift, gonna do the conditioner (or whatever you call it) and try to get a good even stain on it. Modified the heck out of the victorian house plaque to resemble a brother-in-laws house, hope to get that in the line to cut soon as well, trying to figure out which wood to use.

    I find myself looking at signs when I drive down the road wondering how I'd approach it and pull it off, if I could at all.

    Also was looking at some of those metalized finishings you can patina... a 'kit' of all the coverings with patina and primer and such is only about 165 bucks, so might get that. Looks like you can pull off some pretty cool stuff with it.
    Looks like you're going to stay busy for a while. Have fun with it. I already have 7 projects to begin on in January. Doesn't look like my mini-router project will get any attention anytime soon.

    I almost attended James McGrew's Aspire sign workshop in Columbia, SC last spring but cancelled due to unforeseen problems. I'll try again to make it next year.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    What I would do is cut the 1x12's into four ±3" pieces. Then, glue up the 3" pieces into 1-1/2"x3" pieces. Then, joint those edges, and glue them up into your slab.
    Keep the parts in order when you cut them, and glue them back together in the same order. With a carving, you won't even notice that you cut the boards apart. And you'll have a much easier glue up, although it will take a bit longer, as there will be more joints.
    The 12" wide (11.25" actual) oak boards from Lowes already have three pieces glued together. I was going to add another 3" wide strip to make two 11-1/14" boards total 24" width. The second layer would be flipped so the 3" wide strips are opposite each other, one at the top and one at the bottom of the sign blank. None of the other glue joints should be at the same location (I hope). I'll glue the layers together with West Systems slow cure epoxy with stacked 4" solid concrete blocks for weights while curing a couple of days.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    We use a lot of knotty alder at work. It routes very nicely, but tears out badly on the jointer and planer. Sharp knives are a must.

    As for Grizzly, here's my next big purchase, probably in a year or two.
    G0490X 8" Jointer w/ Spiral Cutterhead
    I looked at that one and decided it was more than I need to pay and looked at the 6" spiral head model. Unless I joint a few rusty nails I will get a long usage out of one set of carbide cutters. New heads aren't cheap, and neither are 32 replacement cutters. Are the spiral heads any smoother cutting than the knives?

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    Nice.

    The local shop I went to has one of those 7500 buck straight edge rip saws (or whatever it's called)... though theirs is not a grizzly. Impressive machine, loads of money.

    Cut one of the small (4x3") lithos of the three ordered. Screwed up switching between the carving vbit I used and the cutout bit... I set the zero 'by hand' to start, it seems that once you do that, if you hit a tool change, it goes through the motions, touches down on the set in plate, but screws up the z big time. Snapped a 1/16 em and it drove down on the litho. you can see it on the top left of the litho. Think I'm getting pretty good detail, but it does take a bit under 2 hours to cut.
    Which material are you cutting the litho into? I have a flag display project that is going to have a litho in the rear of the case.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    white corian, .25 inch thick.

    Wood neophyte.


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The all in one, 'how do I' and 'look at this!' thread...

The all in one, 'how do I' and 'look at this!' thread...