Scroll down this web page to see a lot of colors it comes in.
OSB? Masonite hardboard? Can't think of anything else.
Ok, I remember that dymond wood now.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Scroll down this web page to see a lot of colors it comes in.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Yeah, am trying to find something, preferably wood, to make some small pieces for 'copying' a game as a christmas present for someone... I set up and cut some pieces out of poplar, but there is tear out on occasion and it's a bit more 'fuzzy' than I want...
So looking for something that machines as nice as corian, but is wood. If that exists and doesn't cost a fortune.
Wood neophyte.
Here's one of the suppliers. Rutland Plywood Corp
You can find smaller pieces at Woodcraft and other woodworking stores.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
I scaled the Celtic Christian Cross down to fit the 1/2" thick poplar I bought yesterday and used it to do a quicker test cut this morning. This is right after cutting was finished. No cleanup. More details and photos in my build log.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Indeed, looks good C1.
I went out and about to different 'custom wood' shops around that do cabinetry and customer furniture and such, looking for some place local to get more than oak, poplar and pine (ie the HD choices) and a more reasonable rate.
Found one place that cuts up reclaimed wood, they offer some nice big pieces, I may end up getting some stuff from them. Another place does real nice custom woodwork, they get wood from about an hour away, and are willing to add to their orders if there is anything I want... they will also cut it up if need be, and even offer to run edges through a jointer so I can join pieces if needed. Nice guys. The finish guy was good to talk to as well as he has a buttload of knowledge about finishing pieces.. I have no doubt I will stop by there more often to pick their brains, and of course offer my CNC for their use if desired.
Also found out about a place locally that has gel stains, so I will go check that out today and pick up something lighter than the only one I have now (java) as that's just too dark sometimes.
Wood neophyte.
There used to be a place about 50 miles from here that was a woodworker and building trades supplier that had some really exotic lumber and native US lumber that was worth going to every two weeks. They went out of business in 2009. I haven't found a similar business within less than 200 miles west of here. One of the best places I know of in NC may be closer to you than to me.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Well, there's nothing exotic, but I can get ash, cherry, walnut, african mahogany, hickory, 'white' oak, chestnut and such..
I did do my first cut into a piece of the bolivian rosewood. To attempt my first inlay... will get a picture as soon as I can.
Wood neophyte.
Well, here's my first 'inlay'. Elephant cut from bolivian rosewood, a .125" piece.. cut with a 1/32 end mill. It's set in a piece of red oak, because it's what I had. I did some of that v carve pro texturing on the surface of the oak so it wouldn't be smooth like the elephant. And the elephant was raised rather than flush because I thought it would look better.
Has first coat of finish on it, drying.
The oak it's set into is only 4" square.. so the whole thing is small.
Wood neophyte.
1/16" end mill is the smallest I have used so far. I have a set of assorted carbide cutters sold by Harbor Freight that go down to 0.033". What kind of feed rate did you use? I was using 50 - 60 ipm for the 1/16" em to cut carbon fiber plate.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
More details and photos in my build log.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
I thin it was set at about 30ipm for the 1/32 bit... Of course at first I hit the slider to reduce the set speed to ensure it was good and slowly worked it up until I saw at 100% it was good.
Wood neophyte.
Even though it worked, I watched ever second of that cut, just worrying about my one and only tiny bit snapping...
Wood neophyte.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Yeah, I've broke a LOT of 1/16 bits, some for speed and depth at first, then it was just lack of watching what I was doing as I jogged one into a clamp or something. I'm much better now.
I got some mixwax gel stain at a local place, this time 'antique walnut', so it's not as dark as the java.. messed with it a bit, I like it, looks more 'natural'... Also picked up some shellac.. have two coats on a piece of oak for another maze box... going to use the lighter stain as well. I kinda like the shellac so far, makes the wood look good, doesn't take near as long to dry. Not sure what all the other 'differences' are... but I'll get there eventually.
Wood neophyte.
I've used shellac on one project and found that it dries fairly quickly, but it seems to be thinner than polyurethane, so it takes more coats to fill in the oak pores to the point where gel stain will wipe off cleanly. Poly dries outside in the sun in an hour, to the point where I can handle it to put a coat on the other side.
I used Cabot marine spar varnish on the two corn hole boxes for my sister. It smelled the shop up something awful, It's thin, took two days to harden enough for a second coat, and after two coats I sprayed on two heavy coats of poly. She wants to pick them up tomorrow. I won't use that again unless it is for an outdoor sign. It claims to have built-in UV protection.
While in town today I showed the Celtic Christian cross to the employees at the Mexican restaurant and a few other people I know. All of them liked it, but one of the three waitresses asked me to make a larger one for her. One other guy wants one really bad. Oh well, I'll cut the first 16.5" one tomorrow morning. I gotta stop showing these things off.
They couldn't even comprehend how I made the 1" calendar.
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
I am trying to figure out 'finishing'. You can get pine for the cheapest... so I have read about wood conditioners first, then stain, then you can even glaze, and get real nice finishes... so I'm using scrap wood and trying everything to see where it get's me...
Wood neophyte.
Pine is one of the most difficult woods to stain. Conditioners can help. Even when you have a technique that works, you may find that it comes out a bit differently from board to board,You can get pine for the cheapest
Anytime you'll be staining a project, it's a good idea to save some cutoff pieces and practice on them first.
You might also want to try aniline dye.
I generally prefer natural wood, but if I want to add color, I use aniline dye.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)