The all in one, 'how do I' and 'look at this!' thread... - Page 4


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Thread: The all in one, 'how do I' and 'look at this!' thread...

  1. #37
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    I do essentially as Gerry says but I lightly sand with 320 grit between each coat to knock off the fuzz after the coat is dry. Three coats clear satin poly brushed on with a foam brush, then a slightly heavy final coat of clear satin from a spray can. The brush on poly fills the wood pores at a lower cost than with spray cans only.

    I don't do anything to it after last poly is applied, nor do I try to completely fill the pores for a slick surface. I want it to look like real wood, not plastic that looks like wood. (Just a personal preference, ymmv )

    I like the strategically placed knot. Uh, pine knot that is.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  2. #38
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Like C1, I also prefer using a satin spray. But, I use gloss for the brush on coats, as gloss is slightly harder and sands a little easier than satin. One you sand the gloss, and spray satin over the top, you end up with a slightly harder satin finish.

    Be sure to read the can and follow the recoat times. Sometimes, you either need to recoat in a few hours, or wait more than 24 hours before recoating.

    Gerry

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    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

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    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
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    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  3. #39
    Registered Arbo's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks for the advice, that sounds better than rubbing compound and buffing it all out (which sounds crazy).

    Yeah, I actually plotted out where the nots where and in that case, drew my design around the knot to emphasize it.

    Wood neophyte.


  4. #40
    Registered Arbo's Avatar
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    A new project while others dry... a 'lunatics maze'. A cube, with an internal maze, you must flip and turn the cube to get the ball through it.

    Using 'slingshot ammo' as the ball, a .30 cal, 5/16" diameter ball. Cut from cheap poplar for the main internal maze, and some nice looking alder for the external pieces. All wood .5 inch thick, using 5.5x36 inch pieces of wood. .25 EM and 60 deg v bit used. The outside pieces are two sided, you can skip the 'decoration' for the outside if you like, or change it, or whatever. I cut the 'decoration' first, then flip it to cut the other side.

    More pics after glue dries and I sand away the corners and try to make it look not too bad.

    In other news my orbital sander is not longer 'orbital'... just straight spinning disc... something broke, which sucks as it just spins very high speed, makes it hard to hand sand..

    Wood neophyte.


  5. #41
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    There are some planned updates, like wooden dowels to keep things aligned for gluing...

    Wood neophyte.


  6. #42
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    Default imaze

    Arbo,

    What a great idea. Something I haven't thought of or come across. Thanks for posting the file.



  7. #43
    Registered Arbo's Avatar
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    No problem. I am tweaking things, adding holes for alignment dowels and such, as well as a ball storage spot on the cover, and a little arm that swings to cover that hole or the entry hole, so when the ball is in the storage hole it is covered and thus not lost, and so when you play the maze, you cover that hole so the ball can not come back out that way.

    I'll probably be cutting one tomorrow, if it comes out as I hope I'll put up the updated files.

    Wood neophyte.


  8. #44
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    How about gluing a clear plastic cover over the entrance and exit holes in a shallow pocket so the ball can be seen but it doesn't fall out? This solves the storage issue and also keeps little kids from eating the pretty little chrome plated M&M. You get to put the ball back at the entrance before the next person tries it.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  9. #45
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    I guess anyone that wanted to do that could.. I prefer the ability to get the shiny ball.

    Almost done with this box for a niece...

    Wood neophyte.


  10. #46
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    Looks nice Arbo. I'll bet it's interesting watching all the moves that the router makes while making all of those 90 degree corners.

    Is that a Vcarve Pro project?

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  11. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    A new project while others dry... a 'lunatics maze'. A cube, with an internal maze, you must flip and turn the cube to get the ball through it.

    Using 'slingshot ammo' as the ball, a .30 cal, 5/16" diameter ball. Cut from cheap poplar for the main internal maze, and some nice looking alder for the external pieces. All wood .5 inch thick, using 5.5x36 inch pieces of wood. .25 EM and 60 deg v bit used. The outside pieces are two sided, you can skip the 'decoration' for the outside if you like, or change it, or whatever. I cut the 'decoration' first, then flip it to cut the other side.

    More pics after glue dries and I sand away the corners and try to make it look not too bad.

    In other news my orbital sander is not longer 'orbital'... just straight spinning disc... something broke, which sucks as it just spins very high speed, makes it hard to hand sand..
    There is usually a nylon bushing in the mechanism where the cam is that wears out. Check the manufacturer's exploded view for a part number and see if they have it or check ereplacementparts to see if they have it.

    Looking at the .crv file, it looks more like a puzzle to figure out why Vcarve -6, 7, 8 are 90 degree V-bit tool paths, and how the pieces go together. But I finally figured it out.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  12. #48
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    Yeah, V-Carve pro.

    Wood neophyte.


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The all in one, 'how do I' and 'look at this!' thread...
The all in one, 'how do I' and 'look at this!' thread...