A lot of people seem to like this stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/ORAMASK-Paint...34F4D3761ZNWZB
I'm very new to the CNC Router world and I'm looking for a good source for what I call a masking film.
I want to apply a film to a piece of hardwood and the router a simple design and 15-20 letters. I want to then spray paint the routed out part while protecting the rest of the wood.
The first masking material I bought from my local hardware store didn't work well at all. I placed it on a board, it didn't go down that smooth (too thin I think) and left way to much residue when I tried to peel it off.
Am I calling it the wrong thing?
Could I have a product that was just too aggressive?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions guys.
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A lot of people seem to like this stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/ORAMASK-Paint...34F4D3761ZNWZB
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
You might try covering the surface with the good 3M blue painter's tape, then topping your work with a sacrificial sandwich board to prevent tear-out at the cut edges of the tape. Even with the hardest woods, sharp tools and proper speeds, I've seen grain irregularities give way and tear through the tape if unsupported. I'm thinking a cheap piece of masonite our mdf would work. You might need to be strategic about your tool path, to ensure the sandwich board doesn't get torn loose at a critical point
Other suggestions - make sure the surface you're adhering the tape to is scrupulously clean; and for good measure, you could use a rubber J-roller to make sure the tape is fully and evenly adhered across the surface.
On a completely different tack, you could cut your pattern into the material, spray paint the whole shebang, then face the piece off to remove the paint from the areas not routed, if your machine has the accuracy. It's like doing inlay work - start high and trim flush to finish. You're just skipping the inlay part.
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To use tape properly you must start with a very smooth clean surface, and then really rub the tape down over every square millimetre. Otherwise the paint can wick under the tape. Down-cut cutters may be needed here.
The alternative, of facing off 0.1 mm after an overall paint job, is often much simpler. But let the paint really cure first.
Cheers
Roger