I hate reamers!


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    Default I hate reamers!

    Trying to ream 3/16" dowel holes. Put a .187" reamer in a .187 ER25 collet holder. Checked it with an indicator. Over .01" run out. Give it a tap and check again. Still .01 run out but now it's on the other side. Tap and check, tap and check, over and over again. Finally I think I have just right and run the part...check the holes...over size. I know, I know I should have run a test piece. But, after fighting with this friggin reamer for over half an hour I just wanted to get it done. Now I have to do it over again. I hate reamers!

    Why is it such a pain in the butt to get a reamer to run true. There has got to be a better/faster way. I mean this is the way it was done 25 and 50 years ago.

    Has any body here used a floating reamer holder? Are they worth the money? What other tricks are there to get a reamer running true?

    Thanks

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    Sounds like your collet assy has seen better days.......But.......To help yourself out........when you get a new reamer......take it and put it in a lathe or reversing drill press and run it backwards and using a medium fine India stone.....gently stone the transition area from the lead-in chamfer to the reamer diameter........what you are doing is lightly "Dulling" the actual part of the reamer that does the cutting..........now the reamer will not have a tendency to cut where it wants , but to follow the hole and "Actually" Ream rather than "Cut"...........

    Ken



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    Registered Chuck Reamer's Avatar
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    That is why they make .001" under size reamers they even call them dowel pin reamers. I have a little trick that you can maybe use to solve your problems.

    Take a ball bearing of something roundish and larger than your hole, place it over the hole and give it a whack with a hammer. This should peen the edges in a little bit and should hold your dowel pin no problem.

    Live free or die


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    Registered Belding's Avatar
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    There is no way you should be getting that much runout in an ER collet. Where are you measuring this? If you are measuring this right where the shank of the reamer comes out of the collet, you have a bad collet holder or collet. Try an indicator on the internal taper of the collet holder. If you are measuring this further down on the reamer, it is justified. As long as the reamer is concentric with the machine spindle where it is mounted in it, you should get accurately sized holes.

    zac



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    Member HuFlungDung's Avatar
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    Clip the collet into the nut first. The collet should hang from the nut. Do not simply stick the collet into the taper and screw the nut on over top because the retention clip inside the nut is eccentric and will severely skew the collet.

    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    Is the reamer bent? Put it on a surface plate and roll it. You will immediately see if the shank is straight or not.



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    That is why I have a few good boring heads and a selection of bars.
    When you only have one hole that needs to be the right size is not a time to be second guessing reamers.

    I have never seen a reamed hole that was really round anyway.



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    Hang out your reamer a little farther then you have it now. Drill a smaller diameter hole to ream. This will force reamer to follow hole. Also the stoning suggestion is a great one.



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    orionstarman,

    Are you reaming this hole into Aluminum?



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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Stevenson View Post
    orionstarman,

    Are you reaming this hole into Aluminum?
    A2 tool steel.



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    I don't know if our 3/16" collets are bad or not. I'll have to take time tomorrow to check them out. Like I have nothing else to do. I do know that one of the .1870" reamers was bent. A coworker said to me "bend it back", yeah right, in the scrap hopper it went. I feel enough pressure trying to get parts made and out the door with out having to fight with the tools I'm using.



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    chuck your reamer in a spin fixture on the flutes and spin the shank true to the flutes



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    Member WayneHill's Avatar
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    Ever try floating holders with reamers?

    http://www.genswiss.com/reamerholder.htm



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    Member dertsap's Avatar
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    how deep do you need to go , a solid carb. endmill running deadnuts true should ream the hole as much as .0004" under a dowel pin size

    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........


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    FWIW:
    Reaming holes less than 0.5" I never cut more than 0.010".
    (0.002-0.003" seems good without getting flutes plugged)

    Also, use 1/2 drilling rpm and 2x drilling feedrate for the reamer.

    hth,
    Pres



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    Buy a straight reamer and put it into a good tool holder with no more than .001 TIR. Use the right undersized drill to make the hole. Get the recommended feeds and speeds for A2 tool steel and give it another try.

    Last edited by Mike Stevenson; 04-12-2008 at 03:05 AM.


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    I hate reaming, too! How deep is it going? I bore if at all possible using small carbide bars from Micro 100 or Internal Tools.



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    I do the same thing. If I can't get the reamer to work I bore it and don't look back. BTW you might try a solid carbide reamer too. They work great in hard stuff.

    Last edited by Mike Stevenson; 04-12-2008 at 03:04 AM.


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    Member handlewanker's Avatar
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    Hi all, if the reamer is held rigid it will "bore" the hole instead of sizing it.

    A reamer is actually a production tool, used to produce holes to size on a repetitive basis with a floating holder that allows the reamer to move sideways off centre.

    They are also used for one off jobs and if you get an oversized hole it probably isn't running dead true, which is not the mode they were envisaged for.

    I'd be carefull about dulling the cutting edge of the reamer, that is the top corner, not the sides, never on the sides.

    A reamer cuts on the corner of the point and the sides just hold it in allignment once it has entered the hole.

    If the reamer becomes blunt from overuse between grinds it will act as a wedge and trying to cut on the side will lead to a broken reamer.

    I once saw a chap reaming a 1/4" hole that had been left 1/64" undersize, that's .015" to take out with a 1/4" reamer.

    You only need to leave a couple of thou' to get a reamer to produce a sized hole, any more than a few thou' and you may as well drill the hole out.
    Ian.



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    It seems that all the .1870" reamers that we had were bent. How and why they were bent I don't know. We did order new ones. I also put in a request for a Parlec floating reamer holder and collets with my boss. At over $500 I'm not holding my breath. As for the job at hand. After stoning the lead of the reamer I indicated the reamer as best I could and peened the holes with a steel ball where necessary. I hate reamers.



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I hate reamers!

I hate reamers!