Help ! Upgrade chinese 40w laser to 50W

[Mcbride19]

Hello everybody(and happy New Year), I'm new here, so I introduce myself, I'm a french computer's engineer, I'm interested in 3d printing(I already own a rostock max and a k8400), a few weeks ago I decided to buy an chinese laser engraver/cutter.
So I bought this one :


I really love this machine but I found that 40W was not enough to cut 3mm plywood and others material.
So I decided to buy another laser tube... a 50W and the power supply that comes with it.

I received the power and the tube, the tube is a little bit longer than the 40w but it isn't a problem.

The real problem is that the 40w power inside the engraver have different connections than the 50w power supply.

I made a lot of emails to the sellers of the engraver(the same who sold me the tube and the new power supply), but theirs explanations are really confused.
The only thing I understood is that I must buy a 24v 2A power supply because the new power supply(50w) does not have 24v on it and it's needed for the board and the motors driver.
Ok I've just ordered one at my electronic shop.

Here is the connections on the original power supply:

And the connections on the 50w power supply


Is there someone who could , please, tell me how to make the connections ???

Thanks for all the help you could bring to me

PS: will you please excuse my bad english !

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[Retroplayer]

Old Supply:

AC Input:
L- Ground
FG Ground
AC Live or Neutral
AC Live or Neutral

Laser Switch on control panel:
P+ Interlock (laser enable/disable) - laser switch on panel
G Ground for interlock

Test Switch on control Panel:
K- Active Low laser on (connected to test switch)
K+ Active High laser on (connected to test switch)

Power adjustment on control panel:
G Ground to potentiometer
IN Wiper from potentiometer
5V 5VDC supply for potentiometer (power control)


Logic/Stepper Supplies
24V 24VDC
G Ground
5V 5VDC
L Laser On -??- never 100% figured this one out, but doubles off test switch and to the controller. May be logic ground?


New Supply:

AC Input:
AC Live or Neutral
AC Live or Neutral
FG AC and earth Ground

Power Adjustment:
G Ground for power adjust potentiometer
IN wiper from power adjust potetiometer
5V 5V supply to power adjust potentiometer

Laser Control:
H active high laser pulse - to test switch (K+)
L active low laser pulse - to test switch (K-)
P Interlock - to laser switch along with ground

[Mcbride19]

@Retroplayer :

Thanks a lot to took time to answered me .
I will use your informations when I will receive the 24v power supply, and I will tell if it's Ok (Well I hope it will be OK ).

@ Nolan Yang
I used 99,9 % of power withj 4mm/s( quite the slowest speed possible in moshidraw)
I can cut 3mm mdf, but only 2mm plywood, and we don't find 2mm plywood in France. I've found a table (on the web), where you can read that:

[Retroplayer]

I threw this together for the MYJG40W Supply. I confirmed that L is connected internally to the K+, so it is an active low (meaning you ground it to activate) "Laser On" signal. The wire coming from this goes to the controller board and also to the Test switch. In your upgrade, this (K+ or L, you don't need both) would connect to H on your 50W supply.

[Mcbride19]

Great , it's a little more clear now.
Thanks again !!!

[Retroplayer]

Great , it's a little more clear now.
Thanks again !!!

You're welcome. I just noticed your control panel is different than mine, but your power supply is the same. Looks like you have digital control of the laser power instead of a potentiometer, but all of the concepts are the same so you shouldn't have trouble.

BTW, are you cutting out the end cap to install the 50W tube? It should be about 4.5 inches longer. In my K40, I would need to cut out the one end to fit it. I had thought about doing this and adding a length of 4" diameter PVC drain pipe and a cap to accommodate a future upgrade. I am curious what you plan to do and how you will protect the tube sticking out.

[Mcbride19]

You're right I have a digital control on it.
The 50w laser tube is 10 cm/12cm longer than the 40w and there is a plate that can be unscrewed on the right of the machine with a hole that can permit to put a longer tube.
A friends of mine who works in carrossy(I hope it's the right word, a man who repair and paint cars) will explain to me how to fold metal to create a box that I will be able to screw ont the machine and that will protect the tube.
Something like this(on the right of the machine) but shorter, I don't need something so long


If it's Ok I will post the photo of what I will do .
If it's too much difficult to do I will certainly use a tin can screwed on the machine and painted(you can find tin can with ceramic inside) so it's well protected and easy to make.
like this one:

[Retroplayer]

Nice that you have that plate. On mine, I will need to cut the metal if I decide to do it. I will just use a hole saw and drain pipe, similar to your tin can idea.

The tube only needs about 3 inches (7.6cm) around it, so a 4inch (10cm) pipe should do.

Looking forward to your conversion pictures.

[cinematic2]

The 50w laser tube is 10 cm/12cm longer than the 40w

I am sorry to tell you that you got defrauded.
Twice.
Nor so called 40W laser ever was 40W nor 10-12cm longer laser is 50W.
700mm long chinese lasers are really 30-32W when new. Tested on dozens so called 40W machines.
Also 50W old type chinese laser must be 1000mm long. Old type means 50-55mm dia.

Regards

[Mcbride19]

Maybe, but I don't mind !

[Mcbride19]

I just received my 24v power supply

I don't want to be a troll but before doing something that I would regret later, I prefer being sure
So here is the connections I'm going to make:



Is there something wrong and what about some connections that I don't know what to do with it ?

How about the V- on the 24 v power supply ? and the P on the 50w laser power supply ?
I can put the original picture without the arrows and text if necessary !!

[Retroplayer]

I just received my 24v power supply

I don't want to be a troll but before doing something that I would regret later, I prefer being sure
So here is the connections I'm going to make:



Is there something wrong and what about some connections that I don't know what to do with it ?

How about the V- on the 24 v power supply ? and the P on the 50w laser power supply ?
I can put the original picture without the arrows and text if necessary !!

Not the clearest.

The AC, AC, FG are correct. Remove those connections from the existing supply and put them in the new supply.

L and N on the 24V supply will also share the same connection as AC AC. It is not clear on the laser PS which is L or N, and it most likely doesn't really matter unless there is a fuse inside the laser supply. The fuse should be on N side.

Make sure all of your grounds are tied together.

The earth ground on the 24V supply and the FG on the laser supply should be connected in the same spot and tied to the case of the laser cutter, and also to the center terminal of your wall plug for safety.

V- on the 24V supply is ground. V- and G on the two supplies should be connected together.

So, your connection from earth ground on the 24V supply to the G at the old supply is not correct. V- goes wherever G goes from the old supply.


H and L are correct. P on the new supply is the interlock. This would be the same as P+ on the old supply.

L on the old supply is connected to K+ internally. You only need to use one of the connections. It was separate on the old supply just for the test switch on the panel. But you can connect that switch between L and G on the new supply for the same affect. L will also go to your controller for the laser on signal.

If you are controlling the power from your controller, that IN signal will go to your controller, not the pot on the panel.

Maybe best to post a picture of the 24V supply, the new 50W supply, and your controller to be more clear.

[Retroplayer]

There is a screw hole on your new laser PS also for earth ground. Connect this also the chassis of the laser cutter to prevent the metal of the power supply shocking you if something goes wrong. It will work without it, but it is an additional safety measure for you.

Make certain that the connection to the metal of the laser cutter chassis is good and that this goes to the center terminal of your 3 prong input. Otherwise you will actually make it less safe for you. All connections must be very good. You can use a multimeter in resistance mode to test the connections. Find a bare metal spot on the chassis and measure between that and the earth ground on your power socket. It should be only a few ohms. If paint is preventing a good connection (which is a problem with these laser cutters) then file away some of the paint to expose bare metal at the connection.

And of course, make absolutely sure you have a grounded outlet! Some 3 prong outlets are liars and that ground is not connected to anything. If you find that is the case, you will need to run a wire to a cold water pipe or other earth ground somehow.

[Mcbride19]

Ok

Here is the picture without arrows and text, feel free to make any modfications you want


It wasn't easy to make something clear with all those connections

A thing that i'm sure is that the L- on the old supply is connected on the laser tube and i supposed it's that black cable behind the new power supply that I must connect to the tube !

[Retroplayer]

The L- is the return from the laser tube, yes. The reason I suggested leaving out the old supply and showing your controller is that it makes it confusing to show the old supply which is being removed.

We are interested in where the new connections go. Are you using the existing Moshiboard or Coreldraw board?

[Retroplayer]

I need to leave for work, but if you post a pic of your controller board as well, I will try to put together a wiring diagram for you later tonight.

[Mcbride19]

It's tiume to eat but after I will post a photo of the controller

P on the new supply is the interlock. This would be the same as P+ on the old supply

on old supply the P+ is sold together withy the G but not seem to be connected !

[Retroplayer]

Not sure what you mean. P+ is shorted to ground only when the interlock is correct. In your old system, the P+ should be soldered to one side of your LASER switch and G is connected to the other side of the switch. The switch is a push on/push off switch. That is your only safety measure to disable your laser. You push the switch in to enable the laser for cutting and push it off to disable the laser from firing.

If you are measuring a connection between P+ and G, you probably have the switch pushed in.

The function is this:

If P+ is open, the laser is disabled. If it is shorted to G, the laser can fire. It is a safety mechanism. Normally this would be connected to things like lid switches that disable the laser if you open the lid to the laser tube or cutting area. Or to water flow switches which prevent the laser from firing unless water is flowing.

You don't want the laser firing when it could damage your eyes or allow you to stick your hand in the beam. And you don't want it to fire if no water is flowing because the tube will explode. If it were just always connected to ground, you would have NO safety mechanism at all.

[Mcbride19]

Here is the photo of my motherboard(a ms10105 that I bought(if something went wrong !!) but it's the same inside the engraver)
I'm using moshilaser with coreldraw.


and the controller (one of the cable is not connected : k- (as you can see on the picture posted before(http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...8&d=1421142303))





as you can see on the next picture the P+ is sold with the G and nothing can be connected on it :

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264278&d=142114230

1000 Thanks again for your help. And don't worry there is no hurry

[miketola]

I think yo must also check mirror aligments and maybe check your lens. I have 40w china laser. I use it everyday about 3 hours. I cut 3.5mm birch plywood power 25% and 10mm/s , 3mm masked achryl 30%, 10mm/s and 4mm achryl 45%, 9mm/s. 3.5 mm plywood cut about 15%, 10mm/s but its not best quality. I have lens with 38.1 mm focus.