Ok folks,
got the tube and its powersupply running again after all the rewiring mess.
Next step was to do a final adjustments on all optical parts, where i found a problem then.
Russ explains exactly this problem caused by a false laserhead design here in his video:
I myself made a CAD drawing from the head and exported some pictures of it:
So far no real hardware change needed but i have to to adopt the adjustems to this design flaw.
@ Walter: I know its been well over a year now. Im finally getting back to my laser.
a few questions if you may.
1: How are you using your Z table controller etc..
2: are you using a auto height sensor for your Z?
i'am using the z axis control for laserjobs that requiring different z levels during a single run.
I have no auto high sensor yet.
But i'am otherwise a little bit frustrated with the laser itself.
The laserbed (the metal frame around the laserbed) is not flat an so the linear rails are not moving freely on every possition and this causes some very wierd gemometry problems.
I i find time, i will remove tghe whole metal frame and exchange it or grind it down on a even surface.
best regards,
Walter
Walter, I finally got the last of my parts. Im about to tear into my wiring and rewire the entire unit. (I sudo did this when I got the machine. but in truth its not to my liking.
Im going to lay it out similar to your arrangement. curious now that your setup is complete. (if anything can ever be complete) are you satisfied. would you have laid it out differently? My main PS is a 130W unit along with a 80W Reci knockoff
so Ill need a large spot for it. your arrangement looks like it'll just work. Also it looks like you have 3 stepper controllers And one laying on its side. why the need for 4? XYZ... is it for a rotary option?
So many projects so little time.
-Sam
Okay All, Its underway. I have ripped out all (well not all yet)the wiring.
Walters setup has re inspired me to clean things up!
1; all new wiring.
2: Install finally the long awaited Z Axis setup.
3: Finalize the U Axis (rotary table built. finished it up about a month ago)
4: get back to work!
Walter,
How did you or recommend. interacting with the U axis?
typically in the past I have just swapped out either the X or Y for my rotary table adjusted the steps for the diameter. and once done. returned the configuration to a standard XY setup..
And now tat I have the dedicated U axis. (for my Rotary setup.) how does one deal with the G code? do I have to do some sort of find and replace all X for U or Y for U etc?
I have searched around the inter webs its a difficult thing to describe.
-Sam
In the beginning i thought i could use the U-Axis instead of the Y-Axis when using the rotary table, but finaly i had to find out, that the software does not include a option for doing so.
In the end i decided to wire both drivers (Y-Axis and U-Axis) with Step and DIR signal to the Y-Axis output of the controller and insert a manual switch in between the Step signal to the Y-Axis Driver. (rotary table driver output is wired to the connector for the rotary table, next to the connector i mounted the switch for the Y-Axis Step signal))
With this option i can now simply switch ON/OFF the Y-Axis when using the rotary unit and still be able to use different driver settings for the rotary table (Dip switch settings).