i am a newbie machine operator on a Trumpf L4030 machine with 4 kw resonator, and i have a few things that bothers me.
the machine just arrived in our workshop in 4 months. it is built in 2000, but it is in a new-like condition, almost. the laser power goes up just to ~3860 W, and we don't know why, yet.
but my main problem is the quality of the cutting. i worked a few years on a Trumatic 180 Laserpress, so i know one or two things about laser cutting, but this machine is a little bit different. it is more flexible and easier to use, if it is set correctly.
our first major problem was with the focus point zero setting. it took a while to figure it out that the lens holder should set to 4.6 mm and there is the 0 point, and from then should set the value -3 for 3" lens, respectively -5 for 7.5" lens. with the 7.5" lens it looks OK this setting, but not with 3". with mild steel i had to let the lower with a few 0.1 mm, but with stainless steel i have to lower with 2 mm to get the cutting usable, without burr, but not perfect.
Can somebody explain me what am i missing here?
the other lens, the 7.5", as i mentioned above it looks good. i cut a few table of 5mm mild steel and the cutting edge was almost ideal. then 2 tables of 12 mm mild steel. the same beautiful edges. a few table of 8 mm the same and then i cut 10 and 15 mm mild steel. the result was almost horrible.
the parts had a thick burr, one or two edges of the part were very rough. i could observe where the cutting is rough, because it sparkled while cutting.
here is a videos, about what am i talking about.
there were holes that wasn't cut completly, and on the video it looks fine, that at one part part of the contour the cutting looks fine (not counting the burr beside the table), but at the edge of the table it begins to sparkle and the cut become rough.
i tried so much to play with the feed, gas pressure, AutoLas position. the most better configuration can be seen on the following pictures:
could this be only because of the material?
after that i cut a table of 8 mm mild steel, and the parts were perfect.
i hope somebody with more experience can give me a few advice.
I have over 14 years exp on many different trumpf lasers and i would have to say that your cut quality being so bad is not based on bad mtl. Sure bad mtl will affect cut quality , therefore you could slow it down and use a lubricant on top of the sheet. We apply wd40 on all rusted mtl and it does help allot. By seeing those pics, im gona say make sure your lens is in good condition, cleaned, and make sure your nozzel alignment is fine, and then do a focus test and adjust the focus on your cutting head.
my first thing to do was to check the head allignment and check the lens. but it was OK. the lens is very clear (the lens has ~20 work hours).
and if there would be something, i couldn't cut 8 mm thick material so perfectly. isn't it?
the thing is, that i made some test cuts before the 15 mm, on the same material, at the corner of the table. i cut a 20 mm and a 40 mm diameter circle, and those circles were very nice. after that i started the program for that table, and the result was horrible. after that i tried different settings with the feed, autolas, gas pressure.
- i think the technology table is not set correctly, maybe because of the ~90% laser output. should i try with different technology table, for example the one for 3200 W laser?
- the machine has a program for focus test with those sparkles, to check whether it is blue or orange. this program is very subjective. every person sees differently. i heard that on newest machines there is a focus comb program. can i use it on this machine? can anybody send it to me?
thanks for the tip with the wd40. i definitely will try it.
many thanks for any suggestions. i'm desperate to get this machine work great with all materials.
regards,
arnold
oaky, so you have a 4000 watt resonator and its 12 years old. Do you have the focus test program and do you know how to adjust it. You want the thinnest line to be centered in the middle of the test piece. And then you adjust your focus accordingly. If you are not sure, i can help you out with it. Your machine is 12 years old so the focus program will be the same as our old 3030 wich is 2001 made, Trumpf did change their focus test on the 2011 models, but you dont have that so no need to worry about that. with a 4000 watt resonator you should be able to cut up to 3/4" steel all day long without a problem and 3/8" allum and 3/8" s,s.
8 mm mtl is 5/16", you should have no problem cutting that. I see by your picture you are using german tables wich id fine, personally i do not use those tech tables. Yes , try a tech table for a 3200. I believe it should be st0031O32 for 5/16 mtl or even try the 3/8 steel tech table. st0038O32 . Do you have those tech tables?
i have a focus test program, which is the following:
- i put a stainless steel on the table
- i start the program
- it makes 3 shots, and i have to check weather the sparkle turns into blue from orange
- if at least one of the 3 shots the light is blue, i press next button
- in the next phase i have to check if all the three shots are blue
- than it gives me a value to raise or to lower the lens.
but this method is far not precise.
you have other method?
Another thought i have. By looking at your pics of your parts cut, im gona say your focus is way out and your cutting parameters are out as well. Are you use to using metric parameters? I prefer imperial. Do you know how to switch it? Im not at a a machine so i cant remeber the exact fast keys. Try 156 or 154 to change from metric to imperial. Then i can help you adjust your tech tables. Tomorrow i can let you know how to change it for sure when im in front of a machine. Also, when is the last time the mirrors were cleaned and adjusted?
With all my exp on different trumpfs i have never heard of that focus test program. Do you know how to get into trumofs customer files? You can split all the factory lst files that are installed from trumpf. fast key 132, and look in all your drives on the machine. look for customer or trumpf folders. look through them all and look for either of those. and look for the focus test programs. It will probably ask you for a password. the password will be the minutes on the clock on the machine and 530 or 530 and the minutes on the clocks machine to unlock the password.
in the SERVICE.PRG folder there are 2 folders: Customer, Setup
the Customer folder looks like this:
and the Setup folder (with password):
i use the FOCUS_PL.LST (focus plasma) program for focus testing.
should i use the FOCUS_KE.LST? i don't know what are these programs for. i mean there is 1 or 2, which i can assume (DIASTEST, etc), but the rest i have no idea.
Great, you found some focus tests. Can you try running each one and take a pic of each one and send them to me. Email me rjck1979@gmail.com . be easier.
so if others are reading this thread, I posted a video about the TP_FOCUS_PLASMA program, which is very unprecise.
the other program that i found on the machiune, FOCUS_KERF, made two pieces like two combs. i suppose i have to attach them together, and the numbers should say me how much far i am from the optimal focus point.
my combs pass at -2 and +3. what does that mean?
After looking at your parts with heavy the heavy dross I would normally say the focus was off. However I noticed in your tech table that your stand off was a little to high.I normally run at .0400 and the speed at around 70ipm regardless of the contour for 3/8 carbon.the part should drop right out. The size of the beam also plays a role on how your parts look. If you take the back left cover off of the laser you will need to locate a pressure regulator.the reading is critical to maintain a certain side beam. Shout be between 2.2 and 2.8 on the gauge.
A's far as the 3800w on the screen , it is possible that your calirimeter is not calibrated. On a 4k resonator you will not get 4000w at the head.you would from the output coupler and read mirror. You need to check with a power puck to calibrate.
thanks for the comments they were very instructive.
although I realised that the reason of the rough cut is the red fisnish of the material. I tried to ask for that finish what the hack is that.
I suddenly realised it in this week that the red finish is paint.
it can be washed with water but not completely, and the normal cut parameters are right in 90%.
somebody told me to try some welding protection solution to wash it.
i will try it for sure, but if somebody has a comment on this too, I really would appreciate it.
Try vaporizing the surface of the steel before cutting it. That should burn through the paint without damaging the steel. If your machine doesnt have auto vaporizing you can change it in your program example: (1,"table",10,100) change the 100 to 500. Adjustments can be made in the tech table under vaporizing or marking.
Last edited by ftn869; 01-25-2013 at 06:04 AM.
Reason: correction
Would you be willing to help me troubleshoot a Trumpf HL2006D Laser Welder? I am new to Laser Welding Technology(: 7 years working with CNCs, 20 years as a Maintenance Mechanic but I really need any help you can give me? Any help will be of great value and appreciation.
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problems on Trumpf laser cutting machine
