would like to power up just the control on my CNC lathes

[cncclimber]

I just bought 3 machines and put them in my garage. I spent all I had for the machines so it will take some time to get enough cash for a phase convertor and tooling, but I am worried about the backup batteries going bad and losing all of my parameters. I checked the batteries with a Multimeter and some are good and some are dead. It seems to me that the controls run on 110(100) volts so I SHOULD be able to patch in an extension cord from the wall and be able to power up the control so I can look and see if the parameters are still there and also then I can replace the batteries with fresh new ones so I can sleep better at night. Looking in the cabinet there is a transformer that reduces the 240 input to 100 volts, I am ASSUMING(not always good) that I could remove that wire from the tap, wire it into the black wire on an extension cord and run the white wire and ground to the ground plate thus giving power to the 100 volt items in the cabinet and letting me turn on the control and be able to change the batteries. I am NO electronics expert(as is probably obvious by my crazy idea) and would like for some smart guys on here to point me in the right direction. I also had a friend say I could just use my 220 single phase and put a wire into two of the legs of the input and it should give the power needed to fire up the control, and if it didn't, move the wires around until it got the two needed to get the control to fire up.. that seemed less ideal to me for some reason. Any ideas on the best way to accomplish this?

1997 mori seiki SL150 basic 2 axis with tailstock MSC 518 control
2000 Hardinge conquest GT27SP GEFanuc 18i-t control
2000 Tsugami BS19 Panther series 2 Fanuc LH1 control

The Mori has 3 batteries, 2 tested good and one dead (either 3 or 6 volts)
the Hardinge has 1 battery that tested good(either 3 or 6 volts)
The Tsugami has 2 batteries, one tested good(7 volts) and one dead

They have been in my garage for about a month and they sat for a couple of weeks before I got them. I hope the dead batteries don't mean everything got lost, I read that Tsugami has one battery for remembering home position on some machines so that isn't a big deal if it is that is the bad battery. I have a disc of parameter for the Tsugami, I don't have anything for the other machines though. I have a few manuals, for the machines, but they are mostly just the yellow Fanuc manuals and no wiring diagrams that I can find anywhere.

I am considering selling the Tsugami and the Hardinge so I assume I will need to get the usage/time from each before most people/dealers would consider buying them.

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[underthetire]

The mori has backup batteries for the control memory and position backup. If the 6 volt lithium packs are dead, you will loose zero point, not terribly difficult to get back. It also most likely uses 24vdc to power up the control. Your friend is correct to a certain extent. If the machines try to power up pumps with the control on, you will single phase them and trip overloads. The mori will try to start the hydraulic unit. It is clearly defined in the prints what 2 lines feed the 24vdc power supplies. Unfortunately i have all that info on a external hard drive that no longer powers up, and its an old IDE so i cant stick it in my new pc.

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[cncclimber]

So I could hook it up with single phase and just let the overload trip, but still have the control on and "functional" to the point I can see what options are on it, see if I get a low battery alarm and check hours etc? Or should I just flip the relevant breakers in the back so that I don't need to trip them.. Assuming I can figure out which ones are relevant that is. Like I said, I have very little info on these and no wiring diagrams to speak of..

[cncclimber]

I suppose I could also just unplug/disconnect the hydraulic unit until I need it...... Right? ....

[underthetire]

Going from memory, turn off all the QM motor overloads. Those are the ones with the black/red levers. Im pretty sure the power supplies are on the actual single and double pole circuit breakers.

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[cncclimber]

Awesome! I will see about getting power run to the machine and see what I can let the smoke out of(hopefully not!) sometime this week. I'll let you know how it all goes.

Just to make double sure though, I won't HURT anything just hooking up single phase to it, it just won't run any motors etc, correct? Thanks a bunch, I appreciate the help.

[cncclimber]

well, I bought a plug that fit my welders extension cord and used some lengths of wire to build a pigtail so I could just plug and unplug the machine as wanted. It worked well for the Hardinge and the Tsugami and I was able to power up the controls and get the info i needed but the Mori won't turn on. The main switch/breaker is floppy and won't snap or lock into the "ON" position or reset. It has a small add-on thing with wires going to it and says "caution, do not operate breaker without undervoltage trip device is energized". Is this causing me grief or is the switch no good?

There are two orange wires coming off of L1 and L2, I would expect those are powering the undervoltage device(Maybe?) they are labeled L1 and L2 also, the orange wires going to the device are labeled something different, and it has a tag saying 24 volts so I don't know. Maybe pulling voltage off the input, going to a transformer to come back at 24 volts?

[underthetire]

If you have your power lines on l1 and l2, you need to turn the door interlock key on the cabinet. Push breaker off firmly then try to turn it on. The shunt trip is used for undervoltage and the cabinet door switches.

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[cncclimber]

If you have your power lines on l1 and l2, you need to turn the door interlock key on the cabinet. Push breaker off firmly then try to turn it on. The shunt trip is used for undervoltage and the cabinet door switches.

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I set the interlock switch to off. I also taped the door switch down. I tried all combos is L1-L3 including L1&L2. I couldn't get it to reset or do anything. It's not snappy like a normal breaker. It's just in between on and off and kinda floppy.

[underthetire]

Push it down harder. Once the shunt trip pops, they get floppy like that. It takes a bit to reset it pushing it down, or rotate off hard if the flange is still attached.

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[cncclimber]

HAHAHA!! I pretty much convinced myself it was bad so I looked and found a used one on ebay for $33 so I bought it 20 minutes before you replied and 30 before I saw your reply.... Oh well. I swear I tried resetting it a bunch of times but thought I would try it again just to be sure. Sure enough it powered up. so I tripped the red and black breakers as you suggested and it tripped the low voltage breaker on the main switch.... SOOOO that was my problem, I originally turned them all off before trying it, but then wasn't sure so I tried turning them all on, but by then I was trying different power/leg combos and that must be why it didn't work... Anyway, I got it powered up tonight and I appreciate your help. Thanks!!