Adding 3D printing to Sieg Mini mill
Hi Guys I am currently adding 3D printing to my Sieg mini mill and thought you might be interested in some pictures.
Bought a Stepstruder MK7 off the bay, and a gnexlab controller card ver 2.1 to manage the heat. They also provide addons for Mach3 to run the printing.
Knocked up some supports for my Mill and just need to get the Nema17 connected to the 4th axis of my driver and should be good to go.
original Sketchup design
On mill without driver board left side
from the right
and front
and a couple of picks with the controller board fitted. Wired and it works too
Hope to get it running soon.
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Interesting...
Where and how do you plan to mount the reel of filament?
What are you planning to use for the hot plate, and how are you going to mount it on the table?
Are you planning to routinely mount and dismount the extruder to permit the machine to be used for milling?
.Originally Posted by doorknob
Looks great! I got the same heater control board, havent had a chance to set it up yet though.
How do you like the Gnexlabs controller? had a chance to play around with it yet?
Also, can you provide some details on the veroboard heater?
With the heater board I got as far as testing it with the print head and it got up to temp no problem.
The veroboard heater is a length of board 200 x 100 mm, shorting alternate tracks together at the ends hopefully I can get it to about 1.5ohms which should draw about 8 amps at 12V about 100Watts of heat. I was going to use heatsink compound between the board and the alu plate to help get the heat to it.
vero heater
Here are some pictures of my vero heater build. Got all the parts now except some epoxy thermal potting compound to bond the vero to the aluminium.
Design in Sketchup. I am using PTFE blocks at ends to insulate from the T-Plate.
The bottom side of the veroboard the tracks are connected in one long chain and I have a centre 12V connection going to either end ground. It gives me about 1ohm the same as a bought heatplate. Giving 12A 120W of heating. The thermocouple (green disc) will be epoxied into a cut-out placing it against the aluminium top.
A closeup of one end
I have had pretty good luck with Nuri's (Gnexlab) boards. I will be watching to see your results. I have done this to my A2ZCNC mill but keep having extruder meltdown issues. The Mk7 does address most of that if I would get one.
A lazy man does it twice.
Have a look at this kickstarter project, basically a copied and improved Mk7 for less than half the money.
Open Source Universal 3D Printer Extruder | DUAL EXTRUSION | by Chelsea Thompson — Kickstarter
heat plate finished
Here is the finished heatplate. 4mm Alu with the veroboard heat element bolted and bonded to it with heat transfer potting compound from Maplins.
Plastic ends are PTFE to heat isolate it from the mill.
Not tested it up to full temp yet but up to 40C or so, heats slow but stays warm a while.
sorry for the angelic glow the sun actually came out..
and I removed the centre tap and rewired to the ends as the current draw was ott made the driver board smoke. should be drawing about 60W now.
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