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Gecko 540 wiring: Questions Hello Gecko users/ mods!
I have my Gecko 540 and components I want to start too wire togetherBefore I can make any cuts into an enclosure for all my stuff, I need to have the 540 wired and working just so I can make a new home for it.
I have some questions.
1.I have my 7.3 Amp;48 volt PS from Keling that came today (great shipping), I wire positive to terminal 11, Negative to terminal 12 on 540. Ok good, I think I have that.
2.Secondly, since I'm using EMC2, I have heard people say that an E-Stop is a must to bring the 540 out of fault, So I also bought an E-Stop from Keling, mine has 4 contacts, two on pos; two on neg. I hope this will work, but I am not sure how to wire this. The second part of my question here is, if the E-Stop is "ENABLED" this ENABLES the 540 and vise versa, isn't this a little odd? So in order to STOP/DISABLE THE 540, I will have to twist the E-Stop and let it pop to original form which would be DISABLE on e-stop but DISABLE on 540? (Unless I have mixed the terms of closing/enabling of the switch) The E-Stop is wired to Terminal 10 and Ground; Terminal 12 on 540 (Correct)
3. One last MAIN QUESTION; My power Supply will have a cord (obviously) that will be plugged into the wall. Will I DAMAGE the 540 or PS if I to turn on the unit/off the unit plug and unplug the cord from the wall? Or do I need a switch between the PS (POS)(NEG) and the 540 Terminal 11 or 12. If so, is it better to put the switch on The (Neg;grnd wire) or (Pos wire) or should I not put the switch here!
I sound really "Noobish", I am good with small electronics but am worried about blowing anything up because it's happened in my shop before and not by me but by faulty components. I'm just saying that I want to ask before I do anything.
I will worry about adding outputs such as Relays once I have the 540 working and the enclosure made, so I will ask more questions in a bit.
-Jason
1) OK
2) You have it backwards. The switch is closed when it's out, and open when pushed in. The G540 is enabled when the switch is out (closed) and disabled when it's in (open). Pins 10 and 12 OK.
3) unplugging the power supply is OK, or put a switch in the plug. But NEVER switch the DC side to the G540!!
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Ok yea, thought I may have it backwards, how do I wire the 4 contacts? Is it ok just to run 1 wire from ea' side.
So I need to place a switch between the wall plug and the PS, NOT from PS too 540.
-Jason
They are probably two separate sets of contacts for switching two different things. You should only need to use one, or you can use the second one to switch off your power supply. Just make sure the contacts are isolated from each other.
Yes, between the plug and PS.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Oh ok, I'll get a separate switch to turn the system on and off.
And everything seems clear, will post if anything arises.
-Jason
IIRC, the e-stop through Keling, like so many others, has two pairs of contacts, one set NO, one set NC.
With the E-stop, pulled out you would want to route your g540 enable signal through the closed pair of contacts (not in E-stop is normal).
A common application of the NO contacts would be to turn on a red lamp or horn to indicate an E-stop condition when they close (or feed a discrete I/O for the controller/PLC/etc to respond or display E-stop message).
Jason,
The E-stop contact depends on which revision of the 540 you have. Rev 1 requires a normally open contact on the e-stop, Rev 3 requires a normally closed. As noted in an earlier post there is also a warning in the rev 3 documentation that the DC supply should only be switched on by turning on the AC power not by breaking the DC side to the drive. On the AC power you would only break the power lead on a single phase system. You would not break the grounded conductors ie. the neutral and the ground.
I am interested how EMC works for you I tried it several years ago and the pulse train was so inconsistent that I could only a achieve half the speed in rapids that I got from the Yeager software. The PC was a 400 mhz system and the drives were Gecko 210s. The final configuration was a 600 mhz PC with Mach 1 running the machine.
Cliff
Thanks for the information guys, I will hopefully have some time today and wire the E-Stop and maybe get some tests. Hopefully I won't have a headache like I did with my Xylotex system....Horrible.
So as long as I put a switch from the Ac side, I will be fine. When I wire the switch, is it best to have the switch on the ground, or positive or neutral? Just double checking.
-Jason
Ok, I have a very simple wiring set-up, Only thing wired is an E-Stop to Pin 10 and 12 on 540 and Power Supply: 11 and 12.
I can't seem to get it out from fault.
I'm not sure exactly what my EMC2 stepconf pins should be set, I have an idea. But don't know if it's right.
What is everyone using for the 540 and emc2?
-Jason
Do you have the rev 3 G540 with the chargepump disable switch that was released after 9-22? If not you need to contact gecko drives because the charge pump was a requirement and as I recall emc doesn;t have charge pump pwm output. On the other hand if you do have newer G540 then make sure that your pc bios is set up for EPP. The newer rev3 have a switch to disable the charge pump and thus will work with non mach3 programs.
Dan Mauch
camtronics-cnc.com
the case for the G540 and stepper motors as well as servo and other stepper products.
Originally Posted by SpeedsCustom
I guess I only have the Rev2, I go my stuff last week
Actually EMC2 does have a ChargePump, Mine was enable on Pin17. I'll need to contact them!
-Jason
Jason,
The charge pump signal must be applied to pin 16 on the DB25. It also has to be above 10kHz for it to work.
Marcus
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