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#1
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Suddenly, my machine's z-axis became unresponsive to Mach3. By swapping the x- and z-axes, I determined that the stepper motors are ok. Thanks KT CNC I then followed Geckodrive's instructions to determine whether a drive is broken and found that none of the drives are broken. The digital multi-meter (I use a Draper 60792) gave non-zero readings all through. The pix of the vertical axis’ motor drive is attached. I have had the control box in well-kept storage since about a year. Could that be a contributor in any way? Nothing appears to be physically damaged in the box. Can anyone help please? Business is picking up and I need to be able to cut perfect templates always. Q.) How do I determine if my drive is broken? To check your drive using a digital multimeter (DMM), follow these steps: Turn off power to your drive. Set the DMM to Ohms and put the negative lead on terminal 1 on the drive. If the drive is a stepper, put the positive lead on terminals 3, 4, 5, and 6. If any of these shows 0 Ohms there is a blown MOSFET. For a servo, do the same test but only put the positive across 3 and 4. Now take the negative and put it on terminal 2 on the drive. If it is a stepper, put the positive on pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 and follow the same rules as above. If it is a servo, only test pins 2 to 3 and 2 to 4. If there is a blown MOSFET, the drive must be sent back to us for evaluation. If there is more than one blown MOSFET, then it is not repairable. |
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#2
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| TheNigerian, What are you using for a breakout board? Jeff...
__________________ Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish. Last edited by jalessi; 11-23-2010 at 12:56 PM. Reason: Additional information |
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#4
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| You say you have swapped the X and Z axis (exchanged X drive and Z drive) and the problem stayed with the axis, not with the drive. Good; now you have to look at the Step/Dir interface to the affected axis because that is where the problem will be. 1) Check Mach3 settings: Ports and Pins settings MUST have the Mach3 STEP output be ACTIVE LOW. Motor Tuning must have STEP PULSE WIDTH set to no less than '2' uS. If these settings are different then the drive may not work accurately. 2) Breakout board 5VDC: Set your multimeter to DC Volts. Measure the voltage from breakout board ground (GND) and at the affected axis drive COMMON terminal (TERM 10). The voltage must be between 4.75 VDC and 5.25 VDC for the drive to work accurately. If it isn't within that voltage range, suspect trouble with your breakout board or the wiring between BOB and G201. 3) Breakout board STEP: While sending no step pulses, measure the voltage from breakout board GND and G201 STEP (TERM 9). It must be between 4.75 VDC and 5.25 VDC. Same suspects as (2) if it isn't and you have done what's in (1). 4) Breakout board DIRECTION: Measure the voltage from breakout board GND and G201 DIRECTION (TERM 8) while jogging CW. Then measure the voltage while jogging CCW. One reading must be 4.5 VDC or more, the other reading must be 0.5 VDC or less. Same suspects as (2) if it isn't. 5) Power supply: Measure the voltage from TERM 1 to TERM 2 on the affected drive to make sure you have power going to it. The red LED on each drive MUST be 'on'. Common BOB (breakout board) problems are: Failed 5 VDC power supply, failed STEP and DIRECTION outputs, bad or partially disconnected parallel port cable, loose or broken BOB to G201 wiring. Check it all anyway. Comment on your picture: First, thanks, its helpful. Second, try to avoid having the motor wires so close to the STP/DIR wires. Separate the motor wires from the STP/DIR wires by at least 0.25" (5mm). Mariss |
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#5
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| Mariss, I thank you very much. I will perform these steps as soon as I get home today. The red LED on each drive do come on. A few guiding questions please: - Is the breakout board visible in the image I attached? Is it that board with transistors connected to the serial port at the top of the attached image? I don't know it! - To check the voltage as you described, the control box should be powered? - How do I identify the breakout board's ground (GND)? |
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#6
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| 1) No, it's not visible. The orange wires in your box go to the G201 DIRECTION inputs. I don't see where the other end of those wires go. They must go to a breakout board. 2) Yes. Power everything on normally. You need power to measure voltages. 3) Set your multimeter to Ohms. Put one probe on your PC GND (any unpainted metal on the PC case). Use the other probe to test from terminal to terminal on your breakout board. GND is going to be the terminal that measures zero Ohms. Are you Nigerian? I have met two Nigerians through work, both left a good impression on me. Intelligent, good sense of humor and hard working. Good people. Mariss |
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#8
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| Mariss, I missed this: "Are you Nigerian? I have met two Nigerians through work, both left a good impression on me. Intelligent, good sense of humor and hard working. Good people." Yes indeed; I am very proudly Nigerian. I crunch numbers for a living but plan to move full time into cnc furniture working. Numbers and logic and woodworking is what I live for. |
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#9
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| I still need help identifying the breakout board. Is it visible in any of the attached images please? I see the three drives, the capacitors, a transformer, a board containing traisistors - and cables. And the error is not from within Mach3; I checked as suggested. Help! Last edited by TheNigerian; 11-26-2010 at 08:31 AM. Reason: Left docs out |
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#11
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| Did you perform the measurement tests I asked of you? If you did, what were their results? "The Blight" correctly identified the BOB. What matters on the BOB is the STP/DIR drivers (physical silicon) be suitable for the G201. Look on the the BOB and identify the integrated circuits. They MUST be printed with ..74ACT..on the integrated circuits. I don't much care what comes before or after that 5-character sequence just that 74ACT must appear in the printed part number. Any other sequence (74LS, 74HCT, etc.) will be for a logic family that cannot drive the G201 STP/DIR inputs properly. Mariss |
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