New Machine Build - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2 - Page 4


Page 4 of 10 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 80 of 183

Thread: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

  1. #61
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    735
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Robert- thanks for the great info. I'm glad you were able to get them sorted out. Reference the servos being overpowered, that's the same conclusion I came to when building my friends machine. I didn't do any manual tuning except for adjusting the RAS settings and I ended up setting the max torque limit to around ~25-50%?. And even at that setting they are not coming close to their limit. In fact, the gantry on my friends router probably weighs less than 200 lbs. I'm using the 2 stack NEMA 34 motor that you are: SDSK 3421S enhanced. After running my numbers with Teknic Tech support while selecting motors for my current machine, they recommended and I bought the SINGLE stack NEMA 34 motor for my machine. I'm using 10:1 reduction on mine but the gantry weighs 400lbs! I should have used their NEMA 23 servos for my friends router.

    Great info! Thanks again.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk



  2. #62
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    236
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    I'm continuing to make slow but steady progress. I have been installing the update rack spacers that Nate at FineLine sent out to me last week (Thanks, Nate!!), and getting hte rest of my motors installed. Last night I started routing the wires from the control box to the motors through the cable chains. I hope to get these all cut to length and connectorized this week.

    In the meantime, I am starting to think about the spoil board setup. I received an early version of the system from before they started drilling holes for spoil boards, so I need to drill the holes (not really looking forward to that, but that's life). I am considering using rivnuts instead of tapping the holes, and I wondered if anyone had any thoughts about that. The biggest downside I can think of is that the rivnut will sit above the surface of the frame a little, causing the spoil board to have a gap. I was considering possibly using caulk to fill the gap between screws and support the spoil board. For that matter, is there any reason to not just glue the spoil board down with a silicone adhesive? My thinking is that I will have two layers of MDF anyway...One that is semi-permanent and a second top layer that gets replaced as needed. The top layer would get screwed into the bottom layer then surfaced for flatness. I suppose I could also surface the bottom layer for flatness as well, and MAYBE not need to surface the top layer every time I replace it. When the bottom layer needs replacing, it would probably be garbage anyway, so I could just pull it up in pieces, scrape off the old caulk and glue down another piece.

    A second question is provisions for hold-downs. I've seen alot of people using t-slot track, and I've seen people just put some number of threaded inserts in for hold-down clamps. I am looking for flexibility. This isn't a production machine, and I will be doing a pretty wide variety of work including 3D carving (Carved top guitars, necks, furniture). What works well for people?

    Thanks,
    Robert



  3. #63
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Drill a counterbore in the bottom of thee MDF with a spade bit for the nuts to go into, then the board will sit flush.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  4. #64
    Community Moderator difalkner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    729
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Quote Originally Posted by DDgitfiddle View Post
    I'm continuing to make slow but steady progress. I have been installing the update rack spacers that Nate at FineLine sent out to me last week (Thanks, Nate!!), and getting hte rest of my motors installed. Last night I started routing the wires from the control box to the motors through the cable chains. I hope to get these all cut to length and connectorized this week.

    In the meantime, I am starting to think about the spoil board setup. I received an early version of the system from before they started drilling holes for spoil boards, so I need to drill the holes (not really looking forward to that, but that's life). I am considering using rivnuts instead of tapping the holes, and I wondered if anyone had any thoughts about that. The biggest downside I can think of is that the rivnut will sit above the surface of the frame a little, causing the spoil board to have a gap. I was considering possibly using caulk to fill the gap between screws and support the spoil board. For that matter, is there any reason to not just glue the spoil board down with a silicone adhesive? My thinking is that I will have two layers of MDF anyway...One that is semi-permanent and a second top layer that gets replaced as needed. The top layer would get screwed into the bottom layer then surfaced for flatness. I suppose I could also surface the bottom layer for flatness as well, and MAYBE not need to surface the top layer every time I replace it. When the bottom layer needs replacing, it would probably be garbage anyway, so I could just pull it up in pieces, scrape off the old caulk and glue down another piece.

    A second question is provisions for hold-downs. I've seen alot of people using t-slot track, and I've seen people just put some number of threaded inserts in for hold-down clamps. I am looking for flexibility. This isn't a production machine, and I will be doing a pretty wide variety of work including 3D carving (Carved top guitars, necks, furniture). What works well for people?

    Thanks,
    Robert
    I think you're going to want to surface the top board even if you've surfaced the bottom board. MDF isn't that consistent. I have the privilege of getting the prototype Saturn, also with no holes predrilled and tapped, so I made a fixture and hand drilled 4 holes, #7, in each cross member and then tapped 1/4-20. It took a while and I managed to make it all the way to the final cross member before breaking a tap. I then fastened the bottom board to the cross members using plastic screws and mounted the top spoil board to the bottom, also with plastic screws. If I hit them they just cut like wood. They're countersunk but I have managed to hit a couple of the top screws a tiny bit.

    David

    - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2-150-drilling-guide-spoil-board-holes-jpg

    David
    Romans 3:23
    CurlyWoodShop - www.etsy.com/shop/CurlyWoodShop
    David Falkner - www.youtube.com/user/difalkner
    difalkner - www.instagram.com/difalkner


  5. #65
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    MDF isn't that consistent.
    I'll disagree with that. On our machine at work, we use vacuum through our MDF spoilboard. When we replace the spoilboard, we remove .01" off of each side to enhance the vacuum flow. MDF is much more consistent and flatter than .01", unless it's been stored improperly and has a bad warp.

    Last edited by ger21; 09-08-2017 at 11:46 AM.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #66
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    236
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Thanks for the ideas guys. The drilling jig is a good idea, David. Still not sure I want to drill and tap that many holes, but I suppose it is only once. Rivnuts and counter-boring the underside of the spoil board sounds alot easier. Might even be a good first project for the CNC router. Plastic screws for the spoil board also makes sense. Have you had any trouble with them coming loose? I suppose it would be hard to get enough torque on any screw in MDF to keep it from loosening up at some point.

    Thanks,
    Robert



  7. #67
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    735
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Robert, are you using home sensors on your axe's ? Its been explained to me how to use the hardstop homing feature in the Clear Path's with UCCNC so they aren't necessary. I think I'm late to the party on this one.



  8. #68
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    236
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Quote Originally Posted by 1Jumper10 View Post
    Robert, are you using home sensors on your axe's ? Its been explained to me how to use the hardstop homing feature in the Clear Path's with UCCNC so they aren't necessary. I think I'm late to the party on this one.
    I have heard about this, but so far have decided to use proximity sensors. The Fineline frame really isn't perfectly aligned, so I would still need adjustable hard stops. I have already seen that the Y-axis hard stops on my frame aren't quite stout enough to take a really heavy load (Different story, supposedly being improved on future models). I am also not really happy with how the prox sensors are supposed to be mounted, so I have some parts on order to hopefully improve that. Stay tuned.

    I MAY try to use the ClearPath homing feature for the Z-axis. It is pretty stout, and the sensor mounting would get in the way of work pieces.

    -Robert



  9. #69
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    735
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    It's been awhile but I'm pretty sure you can limit the torque for hard stop homing. I know you can set other parameters like speed and acceleration for homing. On my friends machine it's pretty gentle. Although I wouldn't want my finger in the way.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk



  10. #70
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    236
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Quote Originally Posted by 1Jumper10 View Post
    It's been awhile but I'm pretty sure you can limit the torque for hard stop homing. I know you can set other parameters like speed and acceleration for homing. On my friends machine it's pretty gentle. Although I wouldn't want my finger in the way.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I just took a quick look at the ClearPath manual, and it doesn't look like it is too hard to get that set up. I will probably keep the limit switches anyway as an extra safety, but right now I don't have a plan for limit switches on both ends of the Z-axis. Zeroing the Z-axis would be helpful, and the X-axis would be nice. I'll give the Y-axis some consideration, also. It's also probably worth trying to figure out which method is more repeatable.

    The system is in a state of slight disarray right now because I'm in the process of getting the motor cables cut to length and terminated properly while also trying to make sure that the limit switch cables are nicely routed and that the cable chains are not over-stuffed. All standard stuff that is just part of the build, but I still haven't tried running the gantry with both motors and I still need to tune the X and Z motors. I hope to make some more progress this weekend and hopefully catch up on documenting a few things. I've made a few small updates to the mechanicals that I want to show, and I will hopefully have all the parts I need to do some of those this weekend.

    Thanks,
    Robert



  11. #71
    Community Moderator difalkner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    729
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Quote Originally Posted by DDgitfiddle View Post
    Thanks for the ideas guys. The drilling jig is a good idea, David. Still not sure I want to drill and tap that many holes, but I suppose it is only once. Rivnuts and counter-boring the underside of the spoil board sounds alot easier. Might even be a good first project for the CNC router. Plastic screws for the spoil board also makes sense. Have you had any trouble with them coming loose? I suppose it would be hard to get enough torque on any screw in MDF to keep it from loosening up at some point.

    Thanks,
    Robert
    No trouble at all with them coming loose. I tightened them pretty good and they didn't even hint at stripping. They appear to be unavailable on Amazon but this is what I used - Pan head machine screw

    David

    David
    Romans 3:23
    CurlyWoodShop - www.etsy.com/shop/CurlyWoodShop
    David Falkner - www.youtube.com/user/difalkner
    difalkner - www.instagram.com/difalkner


  12. #72
    Community Moderator difalkner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    729
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    I'll disagree with that. On our machine at work, we use vacuum through our MDF spoilboard. When we replace the spoilboard, we remove .01" off of each side to enhance the vacuum flow. MSD is much more consistent and flatter than .01", unless it's been stored improperly and has a bad warp.
    0.01" is a lot if you're doing small pieces and relying on accuracy, Gerry. When I do a guitar bridge and cutting saddle slots it makes a big difference in the final piece. If I'm just cutting pieces of 3/4" Walnut out to then do other woodworking steps it's insignificant. Yesterday I cut crosses out of 3/8" Maple to inlay into a 5/16" pocket in Walnut and 0.01" wouldn't have mattered at all.

    You may be getting better MDF than what I get at the big box stores, though. When I mic'd mine it varied more than 0.01" end to end and more than 0.005" side to side. That's fine for a sub floor or speaker box, etc., but to me that meant it needed to be surfaced.

    David

    David
    Romans 3:23
    CurlyWoodShop - www.etsy.com/shop/CurlyWoodShop
    David Falkner - www.youtube.com/user/difalkner
    difalkner - www.instagram.com/difalkner


  13. #73
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    236
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Not much of a penalty to me for surfacing both pieces. Like David, I'm hoping to start building some guitars, in addition to machining joinery for furniture, so I'm looking to maximize accuracy. I managed to find a decent deal on a 2.5" diameter surfacing bit with replaceable inserts. I'm still probably a few weeks away from even installing a spoil board, but I like to try to plan ahead so that I'm not dead in the water when I actually find the time to work on the router. Lots to do and check before I get there.

    Thanks for the link to the screws, David. Those aren't too unusual, so I'll hopefully be able to find some. Could also go with flat heads, but not generally the best idea for a large pattern like this with hand-drilled threaded holes.

    -Robert



  14. #74
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    I said it was much better than .01, or at least it should be. I would expect it to be consistent to maybe .005 or so?
    However, MDF can move a lot with changes in humidity, and the edges would change fastest. This could explain the inconsistencies you are seeing.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  15. #75
    Community Moderator difalkner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    729
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Understood. If nothing else I just feel better giving it a light clean up. Thanks, Gerry!

    David
    Romans 3:23
    CurlyWoodShop - www.etsy.com/shop/CurlyWoodShop
    David Falkner - www.youtube.com/user/difalkner
    difalkner - www.instagram.com/difalkner


  16. #76
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    I wasn't implying that it didn't need to be surfaced. Just that it's pretty consistent. It should always be surfaced, and sometimes, it's important to surface it right before a job is run.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  17. #77
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    735
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Robert -

    How did you wire your step and direction inputs from the servo's to the MB2? I looked at your pic but I couldn't tell. The quick reference sheet for the MB2 shows 2 methods; Single ended and differential connection. The CP manual says 5v differential outputs are not directly compatible with ClearPath IO's. So it appears that they have to be connected in the single ended configuration?? A pin out of how you connected your X axis servo would help me a lot. I would like to wire them up as Differential connection where step +, and step -, and direction +, and direction - , from each servo directly correlate to connections on the MB2. I'm not sure this would work.

    I did a little more research and it looks like at 24volts, differential connection is ok for the CP's. I'm pretty sure the MB2 axis outputs are 24volts but I'm going to make sure. I'd still like to know how you have yours hooked up if you wouldn't mind.

    Update: I checked the MB2 axis outputs with the multimeter and they are 5 volts. So I'll have to wire them as single ended connections. If I understand the MB2 correctly, in single ended connection, all the + signals, both step and direction connect to "VCC" and the - signals get connected to their respective motor inputs???

    Last edited by 1Jumper10; 09-10-2017 at 03:14 PM.


  18. #78
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    236
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Quote Originally Posted by 1Jumper10 View Post
    Robert -

    How did you wire your step and direction inputs from the servo's to the MB2? I looked at your pic but I couldn't tell. The quick reference sheet for the MB2 shows 2 methods; Single ended and differential connection. The CP manual says 5v differential outputs are not directly compatible with ClearPath IO's. So it appears that they have to be connected in the single ended configuration?? A pin out of how you connected your X axis servo would help me a lot. I would like to wire them up as Differential connection where step +, and step -, and direction +, and direction - , from each servo directly correlate to connections on the MB2. I'm not sure this would work.

    I did a little more research and it looks like at 24volts, differential connection is ok for the CP's. I'm pretty sure the MB2 axis outputs are 24volts but I'm going to make sure. I'd still like to know how you have yours hooked up if you wouldn't mind.

    Update: I checked the MB2 axis outputs with the multimeter and they are 5 volts. So I'll have to wire them as single ended connections. If I understand the MB2 correctly, in single ended connection, all the + signals, both step and direction connect to "VCC" and the - signals get connected to their respective motor inputs???
    1Jumper10,

    What you indicate indoor update to your post is correct. I used the open ended configuration just because the ClearPath manual indicated that the differential signal wouldn't work. I took the VCC+ from the MB2 and wired it to a set of terminal blocks. There are two VCC outs just adjacent to the XS+ output. To make sure there was enough current capacity, I wired both of them to the terminal blocks. I then wired DIR+ (Pin 3 on motor) and STEP+ (Pin 2 on motor) to the VCC terminal block. DIR- and Step- are wired directly to the MB2. I had originally wired DIR to Pins 2 and 6 (Input B), and STEP to pins 3 and 7 (Input A), but that didn't work. If I had read page 101 of the ClearPath manual, I would have known that.

    -Robert



  19. #79
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    735
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    Thank you Robert. The more I use the MB2 the more I realize how different it is. Sinking outputs and NPN inputs make no sense to me. The learning curve for me is steep. Your diagrams have been helpful.



  20. #80
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    236
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

    I found a few hours to work on the system this weekend, and made some good progress. I got most of my mechanical "updates" finished, finished wiring up the motors, and got most of the wiring dressed neatly on the frame and in cable tracks. I also tuned the remaining motors, and am now able to jog all three axes with UCCNC. They even move in the right direction!

    Lots to post tonight, so I'm going to start with the mechanical updates. When I bought the FineLine system, I knew from previous build logs that the limit switch mounting was not quite right. I had planned to come up with something to improve that, but I wasn't quite sure what. On the Y-axis (dual driven axis), there are plates welded to the frame that hold bumpers and also have a hole for the sensor. The sensor would trigger off of the grease fitting...not ideal. Others have pointed this out.



    Unfortunately, I don't really have access to much metal working equipment right now, so I am designing for available assets. My solution for this was to bolt an 80/20 joining plate (part number 4350, $5.60 each) to the existing stop plate. This is a little bit of a hack, but it works. I drilled an extra hole in the 80/20 plate and I used a 5/16-18 screw through the previous sensor hole on the frame. I then used a longer 10-32 screw through the bumper and a nut for a second fastener. The 80/20 plate has alot of float until the screws get tightened. I enlarged one of the holes in the 80/20 plate to 1/2" for the prox sensor. This allows the sensor to trigger off of the gantry mounting plate which is a nice flat surface. I would have preferred to mount the sensor vertically to keep it out of harms way, but adjusting the sensor allows the gantry to be squared up, so any bracket would have had to be adjustable also. This is simple, cheap, sturdy, and avoids drilling steel. The easier fix would have been to drill a 1/2" hole in the upper inside corner of the stop plate, and I may do that some day when the spirit moves me. Hopefully FineLine will update the design for the future.



    The X-axis (along the gantry length) has a slightly different sensor mounting problem. In this case, the holes are again drilled into the stop blocks for the axis, but they are intended to trigger off of the linear bearing carriage. In principle, this is probably OK, but the bearing carriages are recessed from the side of the main Z-axis plate by about an inch or more. The X-axis bumpers hit on the side of the Z-axis plate (works nicely). The problem is that the prox sensors are not long enough to trigger on the bearing blocks while still being mounted as intended. The picture below doesn't show the bearing carriage, but you can see that the prox sensor is extended about as far as possible, and the tip is barely past the bumper, leaving close to an inch for sensing distance (won't work).



    So 80/20 to the rescue again. This time, I used part number 4296, which is an L bracket with 3 holes and three slots. I drilled one of the slots to 1/2" for the sensor and mounted the bracket to the top of the gantry extrusion with T-nuts. This allows the sensor to pick up the side of the plate where the X-axis drive is mounted. This would not be as easy with the newer steel gantry that FineLine is shipping, but it worked for my system. The picture shows the right side of the gantry (viewed from the spindle side). The left side worked the same way, but the timing pulley for the drive interfered with the L-bracket above where it bolts to the gantry. So I had to remove a portion of the L-bracket that was sticking up.



    The next issue I ran into was the grease fitting for the upper X-axis bearing carriage. It was pointed upwards and was blocked by the X-axis drive mounting plate.



    Fairly simple solution...I removed the 4 screws holding the carriage to the Z-axis and was able to slide the carriage out from behind the Z-axis. I removed one of the plastic caps on the guide rail and was JUST able to rotate the grease fitting by using the now open screw hole in the rail. I removed the fitting and installed thin rubber washer under the shoulder of the fitting and re-installed it pointing down so that I can get at it with a grease gun. Might be better to install a straight fitting on that position.

    There is one design choice that FineLine made on the X- and Z-axes that I really like. They decided to go with a pair of 25mm rails for each axis, but used extra long carriages instead of a pair of standard carriages. This is plenty stiff and strong, is lower cost than using a pair of carriages, and gives a little more travel for the given length of rail. You could maybe argue that 20mm rails with a pair of carriages might be about the same cost, but they would still likely have less travel per length. Just a nice design compromise, IMO.

    The next mechanical update was not strictly necessary, but made be feel a little better. The cables for the left-side Y-axis motor and the left-side X-axis limit switch need to run from the right side of the gantry to the left side. I was uncomfortable running these beside the gantry cable chain because I worried about the cable chair rubbing against them. My solution was to run them through the middle of the gantry extrusion. The problem is that the edges of the extrusion are sharp and would abrade the cables over time. I also wasn't fond of the open extrusion to begin with, so I bought some of the standard 80/20 end caps (p/n 2050) for 15 series square extrusions. I then filed the edges to provide clearance "mouse holes" for the cables. This holds the cables away from the sharp edges of the extrusion. I made sure to smooth the mouse holes to avoid abrasion.



    Also in the picture above, you can see that I covered the cable chain mounting screw with a double layer of heat-shrink tubing to keep the screw from abrading the cables. Not sure that was necessary, but worth a try.

    I have also installed the rack spacers that FineLine provided. These helped center up the pinion on the rack a little better. They went in pretty easily. The only issue I had was that the screws for the X-axis were not long enough, so I had to pick up some that were a little longer. The last thing I need to update mechanically is to replace all of the linear rail screw caps. They were installed by FineLine, but most of them were pushed in way to far and would collect dust and defeat the purpose of having them. FineLine was nice enough to send me replacements.

    That's it for the mechanical updates. I will update the electrical progress in a future post, hopefully later this week.

    -Robert

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2-img_0940-jpg   - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2-img_0943-jpg   - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2-img_0938-jpg   - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2-img_0937-jpg  

    - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2-img_0944-jpg   - FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2-img_0939-jpg  


Page 4 of 10 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

- FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2

- FineLine Saturn 4x2 with ClearPath, UC300-ETH / MB2