Saturn 4 X 4 build

[sybilsurf]

I used flat head cap screws to secure the ply...I only used every third hole position. The plan is to use wood screws to secure a T-track border for my MDF.

I needed to justify my day off, so I need to get onto the Sign Project. I'll get the T-track another day and use double sided tape for today.

[sybilsurf]

Now I finally get to test out the cyclone dust collector system I've put together.

There's a guy on Ebay who makes a cool sheet metal cyclone seperator made to fit a Harbor Freight 1 HP dust collector. The idea is to mount the blower directly on top of the cyclone. The cheapest way is to use a cheap 30 gallon trash can from a Home Store, but since this thing is a little tall, I opted for an open top drum for a little more weight down low.

The concept is that the cyclonic flow will make the chips fall into the drum so that there is no need for a bag. I figure that if I can put this thing outside I'll have a quieter system and if at least 90 per cent of the chips land in the drum I could live with a little bit of dust to sweep up occasionally outside.

Well, after cutting the signs out of blue extruded foam I didn't see any evidence of blue outside by the exhaust of the blower, so it seems to work perfectly!

I DO need a longer vacuum hose so that I can route it out the garage vent opening...I temporarily ran it through the side door for now.

[sybilsurf]

In the end the signs came out just the way they looked in V-carve!

[sybilsurf]

I still need to tidy up the excess cables and make a laptop shelf, but it sure was exciting to make some cuts!

I did notice that the table has a little shake upon direction changes above 200 ipm. I'm thinking that mounting it to the garage wall could stiffen it up, especially in the Y direction where the whole gantry weight has to stop and start.

Ward

[ericclinedinst]

Just have to be careful doing this with the garage door closed. I've read stories where dust collectors have made people pass out from sucking too much breathable air out of the room if there's not an open door or window to replenish it

Signs look great btw.

Now I finally get to test out the cyclone dust collector system I've put together.

There's a guy on Ebay who makes a cool sheet metal cyclone seperator made to fit a Harbor Freight 1 HP dust collector. The idea is to mount the blower directly on top of the cyclone. The cheapest way is to use a cheap 30 gallon trash can from a Home Store, but since this thing is a little tall, I opted for an open top drum for a little more weight down low.

The concept is that the cyclonic flow will make the chips fall into the drum so that there is no need for a bag. I figure that if I can put this thing outside I'll have a quieter system and if at least 90 per cent of the chips land in the drum I could live with a little bit of dust to sweep up occasionally outside.

Well, after cutting the signs out of blue extruded foam I didn't see any evidence of blue outside by the exhaust of the blower, so it seems to work perfectly!

I DO need a longer vacuum hose so that I can route it out the garage vent opening...I temporarily ran it through the side door for now.

[ericclinedinst]

Here's just one of many such articles. Also depending on type of heating you could be sucking pure CO into your workspace/home instead of it venting outside. Negative pressure is a b#%*$

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/10270

[sybilsurf]

Ward, the z-axis steps should be 10,160.

Thanks Nate. I wonder if I can change the motor tuning as well on Z? CRP has it at 200 inches per minute and 30 in/s/s while X and Y are 600 and 50.

Ward

[FineLineAuto]

I would leave the z where it's at. You can push it to 300/40 but my question would be why?

X and Y can go up to 1200/50 with the NEMA 34's though 600/50 should be more than sufficient.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[difalkner]

I still need to tidy up the excess cables and make a laptop shelf, but it sure was exciting to make some cuts!

I did notice that the table has a little shake upon direction changes above 200 ipm. I'm thinking that mounting it to the garage wall could stiffen it up, especially in the Y direction where the whole gantry weight has to stop and start.

Ward

Be careful tying it to the wall - you might move your house with the Y axis!! LOL!

This all looks great and the sign is very nice. What material is that (I think you said foam but I'm not familiar with this material for signs)? I was just discussing our HF 2 HP DC tonight with my wife and how we need to do a Thien baffle or cyclone.

[sybilsurf]

Here's just one of many such articles. Also depending on type of heating you could be sucking pure CO into your workspace/home instead of it venting outside. Negative pressure is a b#%*$

Seriously: Why not vent dust collectors outside? - by JasonWagner @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

Thanks for that. I do have two 6 X 12" or so vents but the thought of the exhaust gasses from my hot water heater coming DOWN the vent pipe is a little scary. I'll leave the garage door up a foot or so to be sure.

[sybilsurf]

Be careful tying it to the wall - you might move your house with the Y axis!! LOL!

This all looks great and the sign is very nice. What material is that (I think you said foam but I'm not familiar with this material for signs)? I was just discussing our HF 2 HP DC tonight with my wife and how we need to do a Thien baffle or cyclone.

David, it's Dow blue extruded foam. My hobby is radio controlled sailplanes, so I happened to have some foam on hand. The "good stuff" is called High Density Urethane, or Signmaker's foam, but it's a couple of hundred for a 1" thick 4 X 8 sheet.

I agonized over which HF dust collector to buy, but when I saw the cyclone drum mounted system I was sold. So far I'm impressed! I am getting more suction than the dust collector at the local Makerplace's router gets. And the Kent shoe sure is sweet!

Ward

[fretman_2]

Can you post a link to the guy that sells these on eBay?

Tnx,

Now I finally get to test out the cyclone dust collector system I've put together.

There's a guy on Ebay who makes a cool sheet metal cyclone seperator made to fit a Harbor Freight 1 HP dust collector. The idea is to mount the blower directly on top of the cyclone. The cheapest way is to use a cheap 30 gallon trash can from a Home Store, but since this thing is a little tall, I opted for an open top drum for a little more weight down low.

The concept is that the cyclonic flow will make the chips fall into the drum so that there is no need for a bag. I figure that if I can put this thing outside I'll have a quieter system and if at least 90 per cent of the chips land in the drum I could live with a little bit of dust to sweep up occasionally outside.

Well, after cutting the signs out of blue extruded foam I didn't see any evidence of blue outside by the exhaust of the blower, so it seems to work perfectly!

I DO need a longer vacuum hose so that I can route it out the garage vent opening...I temporarily ran it through the side door for now.

[sybilsurf]

Can you post a link to the guy that sells these on eBay?

Tnx,

Sure, here it is:

Cyclone Separator for Dust Collector with RIGHT HAND INLET | eBay

Ward

[fretman_2]

Thanks!!!

Sure, here it is:

Cyclone Separator for Dust Collector with RIGHT HAND INLET | eBay

Ward

[ynnek]

Today I played Hookey from work and justified it by making a couple of foam signs for their new building.

First I wanted to have a table "foundation" to screw my spoil board onto. Measuring the inside dimensions of the work area, I noticed that a 60 X60" piece of Baltic Birch would be just about perfect.

But how to transfer all the screw locations onto the birch ply? Rather than laying it all out I bought some cup pointed set screws and used them to transfer the hole locations onto the back of the ply. A few taps

of the hammer and I was able to drill the holes into a nice conical start hole.

I use this technique all of the time. Works well.

[sybilsurf]

So I was tramming in my spindle, this was the first time I had put an indicator on it, and I discovered that my spoil board is way too "squishy". One layer of 3/4" Baltic Birch ply just isn't enough, even with a layer of 3/4" MDF over it. I could push it a few thousands very easily with one finger.

So I decided it needed to be redone. This time I'll use a double layer of 60" X 60" MDF and a third 48" X 48" layer for the cut area. I'll also use every one of the 100 tapped holes that Nate must have have LOVED to put in for us.

I recommend that anyone doing this with a vacuum bag do it on the floor, as it was the proverbial Royal PIA to get the caulking correct while the drop cloth was hanging over the edge of my work table. LOTSA swearing, I think my wife's ears are still ringing!

[difalkner]

... I'll also use every one of the 100 tapped holes that Nate must have have LOVED to put in for us.

Just be glad yours came with tapped holes. Ours is the prototype and NO drilled or tapped holes. It took a few hours to drill and tap into this stress relieved steel but I managed to do it with only two drill bits and only broke one tap. Imagine if I had put two holes in each cross member...

[MonsterRobotics]

Thanks!!!

Just ordered an 'eastcaroga' cyclone separator for my Saturn!

[sybilsurf]

Got the 4X 4 spoilboard glued to the two layers of 60 x 60...much easier on the floor!

[coherent]

Looks good. It should be nice and heavy duty. Do you plan on producing anything specific with the machine or just use as an all around hobby machine?
Also, I have a set of the homing/limit switches in the way from Nate. Did you get yours all wired up and operational? If you use Mach3, I'd really like to know if it was fairly straightforward and see how you wired them and your Mach setup.