Saturn 4 X 4 build

[sybilsurf]

Thanks David, that looks like a good solution to me.

Ward

[sybilsurf]

Problem solved. Used stand-offs rather than change the bumpers.

[difalkner]

That looks good, Ward! Are you making the plates?

[sybilsurf]

That looks good, Ward! Are you making the plates?

Thanks, David.

Yes, I have a retrofit knee mill that is very handy to have. A little slow compared to a router, but good for cutting metal.

Ward

[sybilsurf]

Got all the sensors mounted using all existing sensor mounting holes.

[difalkner]

Looks good, Ward! What is the sensing distance on those?

[sybilsurf]

Looks good, Ward! What is the sensing distance on those?

David, I believe that these are 8 mm for steel. I need to power the whole thing up soon and then do the adjusting.

Ward

[sybilsurf]

She MOVES!


I used the CNCRP 48 X 48 setup files, and with the help of my 19 year-old tech wizard, got the Smooth Stepper to communicate with the laptop.

I had to reverse the X motor direction...is the typical?

I noticed that the CRP systems must not use a Z proximity sensor, as it was disabled. I had to enable it in and to turn on the homing function for it to work. David, this sounds like maybe the same thing that happened to you?

So now I can home in both X and Z.

However, in spite of the fact that the Y and Slave (B) limit switches work in jog mode, when I try to home Y the motion continues past the limits and tries to keep going as I hit the E-stop!

Any Ideas?

Ward

[sybilsurf]

OK, I figured it out. I mapped out the pin assignment to each of the limit switches and somehow they were mixed up.

Once I fixed them it works like a charm! It's really fun to see this thing move!

Next thing is to mount some plywood onto the machine as a base for the MDF spoil board.

Ward

[FineLineAuto]

Glad you got it working.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[coherent]

Thanks for sharing your build. It looks great so far. I'm looking at possible buying a machine myself from FLA so will be watching your progress with interest. Does the 2x2 tubing seem like it's fine for this machine, or do you think something a little bigger would have been a better choice?
I have questions about the machine but normally questions lead to answers that generate more questions, so instead of the email or voice message game I'm trying to talk to Nate or someone at FLA. So far I've not had any luck getting anyone to actually answer the phone so I can ask some questions without dealing with numerous emails.
Keep up the posts and let us all know how things are going with your build.

[MonsterRobotics]

We just finished the spoiler board base using the Saturn to drill mounting holes (3 inch spacing) and than adding holes for 3/8 inch threaded inserts. Had to place two sheets of MDF to get the work high enough and than simply taped the work piece to the pieces below. Fun to watch actually doing some work but learned two things. MDF makes an incredible amount of dust so I may make a dust shoe before finishing the spoiler board. The other lesson learned was the need for generous clearance holes for the 1/4-20 fasteners to hold the base. Started with 5/32 and would up at a 1/2 inch with fender washers. Didn't use every hole in the frame skipping every other one (6 inch centers).

[sybilsurf]

Thanks for sharing your build. It looks great so far. I'm looking at possible buying a machine myself from FLA so will be watching your progress with interest. Does the 2x2 tubing seem like it's fine for this machine, or do you think something a little bigger would have been a better choice?
I have questions about the machine but normally questions lead to answers that generate more questions, so instead of the email or voice message game I'm trying to talk to Nate or someone at FLA. So far I've not had any luck getting anyone to actually answer the phone so I can ask some questions without dealing with numerous emails.
Keep up the posts and let us all know how things are going with your build.

I think that 2" is plenty strong, but bigger would LOOK better. The Saturn frame seems super stiff so basically it needs legs, not a table or base per se. Too bad Nate doesn't offer a leg kit! I'm sure that having to build a base is an impediment to some potential buyers.

Ward

[beltramidave]

We just finished the spoiler board base using the Saturn to drill mounting holes (3 inch spacing) and than adding holes for 3/8 inch threaded inserts. Had to place two sheets of MDF to get the work high enough and than simply taped the work piece to the pieces below. Fun to watch actually doing some work but learned two things. MDF makes an incredible amount of dust so I may make a dust shoe before finishing the spoiler board. The other lesson learned was the need for generous clearance holes for the 1/4-20 fasteners to hold the base. Started with 5/32 and would up at a 1/2 inch with fender washers. Didn't use every hole in the frame skipping every other one (6 inch centers).

People spend a lot of time trying to make a decent dust shoe when there are already some out there that are hard to beat for the price (especially considering what you have already spent). I recommend KentCNC dust shoes. https://www.kentcnc.net/nc/

[sybilsurf]

Yep, I second that...I have my Kent dust shoe ready to go on and it's a gem.

Ward

[newcarver]

I think that 2" is plenty strong, but bigger would LOOK better. The Saturn frame seems super stiff so basically it needs legs, not a table or base per se. Too bad Nate doesn't offer a leg kit! I'm sure that having to build a base is an impediment to some potential buyers.

Ward

I am pretty sure a stand/leg kit is underway. I think customers will be pleased with the design. I do know the stand is in development and will be tested to make sure the machine is rock solid before offering to customers. Nate if your reading I didn't mean to jump out there in front of you on this one but chime in if you see fit.

Brian

[FineLineAuto]

Brian,

No problem. The stand is currently undergoing final prototyping. I expect it to be available in February, along with a few updates to the machines. I'll have some details shortly.

[sybilsurf]

I used the Mach 3 XML file from Cncrouterparts.com's 48 X 48 machine, since I have their spindle and Nema 34 Plug and Play package. A couple of things that I noticed during the setup of this machine.


----I did notice that there was no Z limit switch enabled in that setup, so that has to be added if you purchase the proximity switch kit from Nate.

----In addition, the Z axis needs to be calibrated to produce the correct steps...it was moving exactly half the necessary amount. Luckily, Mach 3 has an awesome routine built in to calculate steps so it was quite easy.

Ward

[FineLineAuto]

I used the Mach 3 XML file from Cncrouterparts.com's 48 X 48 machine, since I have their spindle and Nema 34 Plug and Play package. A couple of things that I noticed during the setup of this machine.


----I did notice that there was no Z limit switch enabled in that setup, so that has to be added if you purchase the proximity switch kit from Nate.

----In addition, the Z axis needs to be calibrated to produce the correct steps...it was moving exactly half the necessary amount. Luckily, Mach 3 has an awesome routine built in to calculate steps so it was quite easy.

Ward

Ward, the z-axis steps should be 10,160.

[sybilsurf]

Today I played Hookey from work and justified it by making a couple of foam signs for their new building.

First I wanted to have a table "foundation" to screw my spoil board onto. Measuring the inside dimensions of the work area, I noticed that a 60 X60" piece of Baltic Birch would be just about perfect.

But how to transfer all the screw locations onto the birch ply? Rather than laying it all out I bought some cup pointed set screws and used them to transfer the hole locations onto the back of the ply. A few taps

of the hammer and I was able to drill the holes into a nice conical start hole.