If the VFD is wired correctly, then it does not output any noise that will affect any other low voltage Electronics, having the VFD in another box,does not save you for noise, if not wired correct, it can create noise which can affect everything in the system, just the same as if it was all in one box
Mactec54
David
Romans 3:23
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i don't understand why so much Z displace but too little gantry window, for layers?. Thanks
The extra Z-Axis travel is in case you need to work on recessed pieces. Vertical milling of dovetails and a 4th axis mounted with the center point below the table come are examples.
David,
Looks really good. You may want to consider some DIN rails for distributing the AC and DC power. What are you using for switches and connections to the motors?
Nate
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Thanks, Nate. I thought about doing something like that, getting Panduit wiring channels, etc., but at this point I'll probably use standoffs where needed and mount directly to the back plate and then use plastic ties on the wiring. At one point I considered using panel mounted connectors and plugs on the motor wires but now I'm leaning toward soldering the shielded cable to the motor leads (as you suggested) and running that all the way to the drivers in the enclosure. I see lots of machines with plugs but I don't plan on taking these off any time soon and if I need to then it's just a few wires to remove and pull through a grommet. Unless I'm missing something...
David
Romans 3:23
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You should get a waterproof cable gland like these to run your motor cables into the box: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F...7sL&ref=plSrch
As far as switches go, i would recommend an inductive proximity switch with a 12mm body and 8mm sensing range.
Nate
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It would not be a good idea to solder the shields to anything, they need to be terminated correctly, there are many ways to do it, but soldering is not one of them, what works best, is a simple 360 deg clamp that fastens to the Ground pane or anything that is at Ground potential, I will post some photos of how if you need it
What you are mounting everything on in your box, wants to be aluminum or steel unpainted, aluminum being better than steel as it won't rust with time, this then becomes your Ground plane
Mactec54
Sure, I would love some photos on this! Thanks! What I meant on the leads is to solder them to the wires in the shielded cable, not necessarily the shielding itself.
I planned to mount everything to the plate in the photo with the components set on it, the orange plate. It's steel and I'll drill/tap 6-32 and 8-32 so they'll have contact that way.
Last edited by difalkner; 11-10-2017 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Updating photos
David
Romans 3:23
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David
Romans 3:23
CurlyWoodShop - www.etsy.com/shop/CurlyWoodShop
David Falkner - www.youtube.com/user/difalkner
difalkner - www.instagram.com/difalkner
Oh, I have no doubt I'll like them, Brian. I'm just stretching my budget now so those may have to wait a bit...
- - - Updated - - -
The spacer for the Z axis motor came in today along with the correct 14mm flex mount so now that's complete (except wiring) -
This measurement doesn't mean anything but for scale it is 31" from the top of the motor to the bottom of the spindle nut -
Last edited by difalkner; 11-10-2017 at 02:54 PM. Reason: Updating photos
David
Romans 3:23
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That is one fine looking machine you are building there . That is some beefy frame . I've looked st FLA kits and CNCRouterParts kits before I got my machine and almost pulled the trigger but ended up going for a steel frame machine . If these were on the market a few years ago I may have grabbed one . Enjoying your thread
Thanks for the feedback on the machine. What machine did you end up getting?
Nate
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Dave,
It's getting closer! I am sure you did already, but I wanted to remind you to put threadlocker on the motor mount and coupler screws. You don't want those screws vibrating loose over time.
Nate
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Last edited by difalkner; 11-10-2017 at 02:55 PM. Reason: Updating photos
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I ended up with a Camaster Stinger 1 , 36" x 24" work area , at the time I could not find anything like what you are offering now so I went with Camaster , and I've been very satisfied with it , but the tinkerer in me keeps looking at these builds and kits . Very nice job on the design and fabrication Nate .
which is the aluminium profile name? and which is the distributors in europe?. thanks.
I actually haven't yet, Nate. I see most people testing electronics with the steppers on a workbench and I'm thinking that's probably a good idea. So these will come off for testing but I wanted to make certain everything bolted together and tensioned properly first. Once I am comfortable that my electronics are working correctly then I'll put it all back together and use thread lock. I have some old Sta-Lok red that is designated 'permanent' and I'm not sure I need to use that. I should probably get some Locktite blue, green, or purple.
David
Romans 3:23
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Thanks, Adi!! So do you build guitars or chairs or otherwise use Adirondack Spruce?
Yes, it is a very beefy machine. I've had several friends come over and all have been surprised that it is actually as stout as I told them. Glad you're enjoying the thread! It's almost as much fun as building the machine.
David
David
Romans 3:23
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The extrusion is a piece of 3060 from 8020. It's a 3" x 6" profile. Go to 8020.net for more info.
Nate
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