How to Change Bellevilles, Specifics...

[quickturngreg]

OK men,

After much fruitless searching, I need some help. It seems everybody has changed their belleville washers on their Fadal, but nobody has detailed the procedure.

So far, I have removed the cover, the "bridge" holding the tool release piston, and the small, round part bolted to the top of the drawbar with 4 bolts.

Now, I see the 4-legged "spider-thingy", engaged to another part. What tool do I need, and how do I get the drawbar the rest of the way apart?

Thanks,

Greg

[ThatguyDave]

If you give me some time I'll post a photo of the tool I made up to do this job but basically you need to make a press of sorts that can push down on that t4-legged "spider-thingy", hing you described.

Before pressing on this four legged thing you have to insert some kind of rod up into the spindle to keep the drawbar from going down when you press on this four legged spider thingy. It pays to have this rod sitting on a block of wood inside a well sealed cardboard box to catch all the components that make their way from the spindle.

With the four legged thing pressed down sufficiently far you remove the two piece c clip kind of thing which connects this four legged kind of thing to the drawbar. The design is kinda analagous to the way an automotive valve is connected to its spring retainer by the two retaining collets. Removing the four legged thingy will likely be much easier than reinstalling it so be sure to enjoy this part of the process.

With the two piece c clip removed and the head lifted to remove tension on the rod holding the drawbar in place, you should be able to pull out the drawbar, all the drawbar retainer bearings, the sacraficial retainer flange that sits in the spindle and pushes directly on the draw bar retainer balls, and any parts sitting ontop of the spring washers in spindle.

Any combination of coat hangers, bent welding wire, screwdrivers, magnets will allow you to pull out all the remnants of spring washers from the head.

Reassembly is basically the reverse of the process described, only harder.

When installing the drawbar be carefull to make sure that the sacraficial spacer I talked of is properly constrained in the spindle bore by the two ball bearings that are held in it by the od of the drawbar itself. Try to test to make sure you can hold tools before intalling and preloading the spring washers.

Both the profile and condition of the shaft, the four legged thingy, ect consprired to make reinstallation of the four legged thing a total *****. Some finesse will definately be needed but anyone with a reasonable ammount of mechanical aptitude will figure it all out.

Everyone, please fill me in on all the point I missed and of course its a good ideal to replace most of the parts you remove. Good luck.

[ThatguyDave]

Here's a photo or two of the crude press I made.

I also thew in a photo of the tool I cam up with to raise and lower the z axis with the axis motor removed. Indispensable when you're rebuilding a machine thats not under power. Its worth noting that the bottom slot sits in the coupler in such a way that its NOT contacting the sliding surfaces. You don't want to scuff those up. The piece I'm holding is installed between the two upper stantions to lock the axis in place and a socket welded to the top of the piece lets you us a ratchet to facilitate the process.

[ThatguyDave]

again

[ThatguyDave]

and again yea crude but they worked can you guess scrap matl

[Neal]

Use a simple steering wheel puller to depress the spider cap to remove the half moon keepers. Call me and I'll send you some documentation.

Neal

[quickturngreg]

Thanks so much Dave for the help, and your pictures. I managed to get the bellevilles and drawbar floater (the part at the bottom held in place by the 2 balls) replaced.

Good thing too. About 10 of the 42 washers were broke, and the floater was worn pretty good.

Now on to changing the belt-counterpully bearings, as the low gear was a bit noisy.

Greg