FADAL 3016 Turret motor problem (geneva)

[kentsui]

O.K., I'm stumped and need help.
My 3016 (2000 model factory reman) ATC turret motor is inop and I cannot figure out why. When I hit CCW/CW it will not start on its own but if I twist the shaft end it will run as long as you hold the CCW or CW key down...let it go..won't move again without assistance. I pulled a motor of my 4020 and it seems to work better ( no load on it...out of the changer and just laying there) but not bullet proof and it is an old big format fan cooled motor. When I put the inop 3016 motor over at the 4020...IT works there.
I had a new motor sent in, put new relays at K11 and K12 , K5,6,33 and new fuses at F5 and 6 and 2 new capacitors at C1 and C2..when I hit the CCW/CW keys, the motor hums (just like it did on the other two) and errors out if I don't assist it in starting. I am getting a red light constant on mech. relay K33 and a red light on mech. relay K5 after attempting to activate CW/CCW,. I don't see either of those activated on my 4020.

What the heck am I missing? I know its got to be something simple, but my Fadal phone tech can't help (other than suggesting a 913.86 1100-2 board on top of the 471.99 motor). The slide motor works fine.

Thanks for any help .

Kentsui

[Neal]

From what you describe, I would start looking at some mechanical binding in the mechanism.

Neal

[kentsui]

Neal,
The motor is out and sitting on top of the turret, spins free ( well as free as it can with the tranny hooked up) . I used the motor from my 4020, and a new motor from my yech service department...same error same feel. Hit the switch no-go, give them a little twist and they work...no twist they error out and I get a red light on K5. K33 is staying red constant.
Any other time on anything else I'd think the capacitor was bad but I swapped the slide for the turret and then even put in 2 new capacitors and no difference.

The motor off the 3016 functions fine over on the 4020 ( by fine I mean it moves appropriately when you hit CW/CCW.

Do you know what I could check to make sure enough/proper voltage/amperage is getting to the motor. It just seems weak, but it is trying to function. If 2 other motors weren't doing the same thing I'd suspect the motor

[kentsui]

My tech called and suggested I jump the wiring from the board to the motor to make sure there isn't a break yielding low amperage. I guess thats my least destructive choice to start with.
He suggested I could swap my 1100-2 board out of my functioning 4020, but I'm afraid that would put 2 machines down if I botch it or if whatever may have damaged the 110-2 in the 3016 does the same to my 4020 110-2 board.

[kentsui]

The problem is solved. I checked the 4 motor wires for shorts/leakage and for the third time checked continuity and one of the wires (#5 out of TB1)
was dead. This is a wire I had checked twice already but apparently it was touching inside the conduit enough to allow for the turret to function up until last week. It was broken 5" down into the conduit right at the 90deg. bend and was completely black and corroded over. The conduit itself is cracked there and being flexed badly which caused this to happen.
If you ever get to the end of your rope...go a little farther. I had tried 3 motors, 2 new capacitors, 9 new relays, all new fuses and had checked the connectors, the wiring, and the mechanical binding possibility and it turned out, after being encouraged by Dennis at Flint in Atlanta ( this is a great guy) to go back and run an ohm check on the 5,6,7,8 wires and recheck the continuity that I hit it when it wasn't working. I had already said "Can't be the wires, I've checked them" so getting someone to help and wiggling them in the conduit while you check is a good idea.

Also it apparently caused the runaway Y axis when it shorted the first time...weird I know, but that seems to be what happened.