Just ordered Fadal VMC40

[bherr]

Well I finally bit the bullet and ordered a used 1988 Fadal VMC-40. I'm getting the ways re-turcited and the thrust bearings replaced by a Fadal service tech, to the tune of $5000. I have to build an addition to my shop just to house the machine. Being new to CNC machining I'm looking for advice on how to setup this addition. The machine weights 8100 lbs and I already have a 4" concrete slab in the driveway. Do I need to add any aditional conreate to this slab to handle the weight? I have a compressor in the shop, do I need air for this machine? Are there any special drains or water lines needed ? Like I said new this CNC machining thing. I have a ShopMaster Tri-power which I'm sending back for a refund as it just can't handle the milling I need. the Fadal comes with CNC88 control and I have BobCad/CAM software and the PC. I'm mainly milling intake manifolds for motorcycles and need to mill out the throat(circular) to 2.008 and then the outside to 2.210. I've read some posts about doing circles and want to make sure this machine can do that? Anyway any suggestions or points in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Is there a conversion holder that will take the cat40 taper and alow me to use the R-8's I have?

ben

[Neal]

bherr--
The 4" slab is too thin. We reccomend 8 to 12" slab. For a VMC 40 the slab should be 7' 9" by 9' 6" with no seams or cracks. As for the air compressor, you'll need 15 SCFM for porper supply.

Neal

[DareBee]

Your R8 collets are useless for this machine - don't even waste your time thinking about it.

It is very easy to spend $5000 in tooling when setting up a new machine.
Start off by buying a CAT40 start up kit from KBC or somewhere ($2500ish) and go from there. I assume you already have a vise or part fixture.

[nervis1]

Neal

A 8000lb machine on a 4" slab with a 2" sq pad under each foot is only 1000 psi. No sweat for a 4" slab if it was poured right (should be good for at least 3000 psi). Why the 6"-12" recommendation?

[IN2GLAMISGIRL]

My shop has a 4 to 5 inch slab. (I have drilled holes through it) I have not noticed any problems because of this under spec. slab thickness. Even with machines twice the weight of your VMC 40. I would try it with what you have, just make shure you use a steel pad under each leveling screw.

[Neal]

We have found that a 4" slab is more suspetable to cracking and therfore we recommend the thicker slab so that a problem will arise. Our pre-installation manual states 8 to 12" slab for all models.

Neal

[bherr]

Neal,

I'm sure your right. My current slab is only 4" and already has a creak across the middle. I think what I'm going to do is cut 4 squares in the current slab at the four corners, but in say 12-18 " and make them about 12" square. I then dig down into the ground about 28-36 inches with a post hole digger and insert rebar down into the holes and have them bend 90 degs above the current slab. I'll them tie them together with additional rebar forming a square and X pattern and then pour an addtional 4" on top of the existing slab. this should give me added support and tie everthing together. Someone suggested I put bubble wrap or felt paper between the slabs to prevent the creak from traveling up into the top slab, but not sure of that. should I install a drain line in the slab to carry away any fluids, coolant to be more percise in case of a leak in the tank?

thanks for the help.
Ben

[HuFlungDung]

Well, I wouldn't do anything much to an existing floor. Sure, make it heavy if you are pouring something new or maybe have a really heavy machine.

I've got a whole shop full of machinery weighing 6000 to 12,000 lbs each, sitting on a 4 to 6 inch slab. There were cracks in the floor when I bought the building 15 years ago, and that would be due to settling and poor compaction I suppose. But setting machines on the floor has not really caused any new, ill effects that I can see. Maybe I'm just lucky.

The compressive strength of concrete is high enough to give a good safety factor, since it is really just transmitting the weight to the fill beneath the building.

I use plywood pads beneath the steel 'feet' that come with most of my machines. I figure a piece of plywood will contour a bit better to the floor than a piece of steel, and help distribute the load better. My lathes do not suffer going out of level to any degree, summer or winter, unless I move them around. Just test them a few times after the installation to see if everything is ok.

[nervis1]

I've used 5" rounds of 1" thick Itallian dry salami under my mill feet with excellent results. I've found that it contours to the irregular floor better than wet cardboard and smells better too.

[HuFlungDung]

I hope you sealed it by nuking some mozza into it for 15 minutes on HI first

[nervis1]

Without a doubt Hu, a good aged cheeze adds greatly to the already inherent vibration damping qualities.

Allow me to add this dancing banana just for emphasis.

[DareBee]

LOL



Bherr
It would seem you have actually put a lot of thought into doing a "scab" upgrade of your floor which appears that it will cost as much as a proper upgrade.
If you are going to upgrade the floor - cut out a 12' square dig it 16" deep fill with aggregate up to the 8" mark and pour 8" of 'crete in (don't forget the mesh).


As far as the creak goes it is probably crickets, does anyone know if crickets like salami?